Bought just one set of 15mm h&r spacers with nuts to fit on hub.
I didn't really want to go too wide so thought 15mm would be worth a try but unfortunately no good.
The nuts which hold the spacer to the hub are fouling on the wheels just a little bit....maybe a couple of mm. I've ground down the top of the nut a little,where it's safe to do so but they still won't lay completely flat.
I'm not sure if 20 mm would be better or not,it depends if the countersunk holes are deep or not.
This is why I only ordered one set!

Any one help?

 

Using a 15mm or 20mm spacer on the rear wheel hubs, will mostly will require that you change and use extended hub lugs/bolts on the car. Having to change the lug/wheel bolts will require you to remove the calipers and rotors to get to the lug bolts, as they are removed from the back.

This is a skilled job just to extend the wheel and tire for a cosmetic look or wide stance appearance.

Keep in mind that safety becomes an issue if you cannot secure the lug nuts properly to the wheel & wheel hub.

You probably already screwed up by trying to grind down the lug nuts to fit. I would suggest that you secure a new set of lug nuts to replace the ones that you ground down.

 

Not sure that I understand what you mean by the nuts fouling on the wheels.

On my '10 XKR with factory 20" wheels I use the H&R 20mm spacers up front and the 15mm spacers at the rears. No interference issues with the wheels and perfect tire positioning for my taste.

On my previous '08 XK with the different stock 19" wheels using the same 15mm spacers at the back, I had to cut down the leading, non-threaded part of the factory lug-bolts to prevent a very slight touch against the wheels. The 20mm spacer was fine, had enough clearance from the wheel. Thus, having enough clearance, or not, depends on the particular wheel's depth of the indents that the lug-bolt fit into. I used an automotive "feeler gauge" in each case to make sure that after installation of the wheels there was sufficient clearance between the wheel indents and the original lug-bolts and spacer mounting nuts.

I do not picture why the mounting nuts would touch the wheels as the bolts are the ones that stick out the furthest.

 

If there is a clearance issue, you actually want SHORTER lug bolts to replace the factory ones. But, the factory bolts have about 5mm worth of leading, non-threaded portions that can easily be cut off for the needed additional clearance. I used a high-speed 4" grinder wheel to cut it off and it only took a few seconds. It does not hurt anything as the non-threaded portion is only used to guide the nut onto the threaded portion.

Richard - in your 3-way comparison thread I asked a question from you regarding the source for the side splitters for you Stingray. Now that I purchased one, I'd like to use the same ones that you installed. Thanks.

 

Hi guys,thanks for replying.
To clarify,I haven't damaged the lug nut or anything else drastic lol
The shallow nuts that come with the new spacers are just touching the outer edge of the indent on the back of the wheel, the studs themselves seem fine. I actually placed all 5 new nuts into the spacers as they will be once fitted and then offered it up to the wheel. They just don't quite meet up to the wheel face,maybe a mm or so gap,take the nuts away and everything fine.
I suspect a 20mm has a deeper countersink for each nut which takes them out of harms way.
I did take a bit off the new nuts,just the surplus non contact rim to shorten them a bit but still not quite right.

 

I see. So, your indent is too small for the nuts. Still, be sure that the gap is NOT caused by the lug-bolts that are too long? I had exactly that problem.

Also, I ground down a socket just for the purpose of installing those shallow nuts. Since they are so thin, a regular socket will not fit deep enough into the countersunk spacer surfaces to get a good grip on those nuts and it is very easy to round off the top of the spacer nuts. Once you do that it would be VERY difficult to remove them. How do I know? I actually ruined some nuts by rounding them off and had to order a set of new ones. With the ground-down thin-wall socket it is much safer.

If indeed the nuts are touching, you could "think" about widening the indent but, I likely would not go that far.

 

Thanks again. I'm starting to doubt my self now.....maybe it was the studs..however there was an issue when I was playing off the car.
Maybe another look next week!

 

I have just installed 20mm HR Spacers on the rear, no problem with the studs , & 15 mm on the rear , Had to cut off the non threaded part of the studs , fits perfect with my Sentas . No need to change the studs with OEM wheels.

 

My car came with sentas. I replaced them with RS futuras, same offset as the sentas, but rears were 10". Have the rears fitted with H&R 15mm spacers and the fronts 20mm, fenders are fuller and nicer stance.
The 20mm fitted no problem, the spacer nuts are counter sunk more with little bolt thread showing. The 15mm been more shallow ,so i had to cut the ends off the original bolts, no problem, don't be afraid, just check and study what your going to do first.
See the post, staggered wheel question or idea.

 

How did you manage that? I have 10mm spacers on the rear Senta wheels and they come within 5mm of the arch, 15mm wold be flush and 20mm would out past the car.

 

Sorry my mistake, 20 mm on front 15mm on rear. I havent had it off my hoist yet, but lots of guys have gone with this combination . wiyh no problems ,I have a set of HR 5 mm , I tried those but found that was not enough , If any one needs them . $25.. plus shipping .Thanks

 

I went with aftermarket wheels & have 20mm spacers. Also from H&R. Your spacers should have come with the longer bolts & i did not have to grind the old bolts at all, they fit nice & snug. There is no need to remove calipers, should be a direct bolt on. If your running stock wheels they should have a recessed area, you can mark where there is rubbing simply drill a hole deep enough so all is snug. You wont damage the wheel, they are cast. Pretty much bullet proof. You may need to rebalance the wheels in question but outside of that its a pretty simple do it yourself project.

 

Done more fiddling around today and unfortunately my original problem is still there.
I did shorten the studs as recommended( though not convinced) to no avail.
I made a mock up of a hub,see pic
This set up has even shorter studs than on the car but still the wheel doesn't sit tight up to the spacer.you can just see the small gap in this pic.
As originally stated its the new nuts that are fouling on the wheels. Weird eh?

 

I had the same problem, your wheels must not be recessed enough when on. It';s not the stud, it's probably the corners of the nuts that fouling it from going in. Mine did this. the nuts were catching in the recess holes. I tightened the wheel on to the spacer, took it of and could see tracks left by the nuts. I had to get a die grinder and make the recess bigger, then they fitted. balanced them when done.