Hope photos help those that haven't done this R&R, but the OEM links are much thinner than replacements. These replacements are probably 4X stiffer/stronger. In addition, these MOOGs (and possibly others) have zerk fittings which allow the joints to be greased, just like the old days.

 

Does replacing upper or lower control arms on the Rear alter an alignment?

I just ordered them because I don't need to have another 4-wheel alignment done by waiting to do the control arms. If it doesn't affect the alignment, I still get the benefit of not having to do the prelim work again, and the whole rear end suspension will now be new. good feeling.

 

...just got notice that the upper passenger control arm is BO, so the question of alignment becomes important.

 

Well, heck, time to yell HELP for a little guidance. Being the first time with a Jag, I've done things in reverse order, it seems. As of now, the sway bar and tire rod is off, and the lower control arm is off. I removed the caliper in order to get access to the outward control arm bolt, but it didn't want to get past the rotor, that seems glued to the hub. Some grinding on the bolt head allowed it to retreat enough to get the arm off, but the rotor is stuck...

A little research and seems that the Parking Brake activates whenever the car's put into Park, which explains why I can't budge the rotor. What's the drill for releasing the parking brake....do I re-attach the caliper and pump the brake in order to start the car? Do I put it in N and it will release? I'd rather stop for the day and ask those that know, so somebody please give me a clue.

 

The parking brake doesn't auto apply on XK's. If it has been put on just turn the ignition on and press down on the parking brake lever.

 

Well, while that's good to know, looks like I'm breaking out the 6# sledgehammer tomorrow. I've done maybe a dozen discs, and this one is like it's welded. Doesn't help that the dust shield is covering about 300 degrees of the rotor.

 

I have always used a C-clamp to retract the caliper pistons, but this time I bought the retracting set. Is there something special that requires twisting the piston, or is the tool just a nicer way of using a C-clamp...pushing it straight back while opening the bleed valve?

 

Stick a screwdriver inside one of the disc vanes as leverage. The rear park brake requires rotating to fully retract it.

 

A pry bar and sledge are my favorite tools, lol. I'll figure out the retractor, knowing now that a straight push isn't right. Amazing how many YT videos there are, and all differ a bit.

 

[QUOTE=bamaboy473;2548180]I have always used a C-clamp to retract the caliper pistons, but this time I bought the retracting set. Is there something special that requires twisting the piston, or is the tool just a nicer way of using a C-clamp...pushing it straight back while opening the bleed valve?[
The piston needs to be screwed in plus pressed in which the tool makes easier. A pair of needle nose pliers works with the C clamp but pretty awkward. For $20 or so, the tool is worth it.

 

Absolutely agree with you. It's sitting here waiting on the rest of the parts to arrive.

 

UPDATE: Parts arrived, everything on the rear suspension is new, new brake pads and rotors, a test drive this morning was excellent with no drama (parts falling off). Tomorrow it gets a 4-wheel alignment and it will be ready for the road. a big THANKS to you guys for guiding me through the process; it was a giant help!!

 

If you're referring to the front, I've done it myself. The bushing swap is very easy to do, if you have a press and an accurate die set. Need to be thoughtful about how the new bushing goes in. The two Lemfoerder bushings (OEM) are about $100, compared to new Jag control arms of $1300 the pair.

Couple of notes:
(a) The smaller bushing at the other end of the control arm is not available anywhere that I know of, but it's considerably less stressed than the large front one, both in twisting and compression.
(b) believe it or not, it's possible to install the arms flipped over, so the bend is "inward" rather than outward. I actully did this (to my astonishment). Yes, they fit perfectly the wrong way in. There are still dents in my workbech from the impact of my head.... (I tell this because there's no possible way to get it wrong when I did my BMW's, and it is here -- so don't make my dumbass mistake.)

OK, going on:

(c) Witness mark the control arm large bushing position with a sharpie before you loosen it, and when you insert the new one you'll be very close to the original alignment. The control arm bolt has a cam to adjust alignment, so a witness mark simplifies the job a lot. It's a torque job: the large bushing is compressed to hold it in position,and you *don't* want it to slip.
(d) Final tightening, as with all suspension parts, are done with all wheels on and under load.

All the steps and torques are in the maintenance manual. Total job was 90 minutes the first time, and 60 to flip over the Control arms to their correct position.

In other words, if you can find "changeable" bushings, it's not that hard to do. I have a set of six for the two bottom front suspension arms, and I'll swap them out in a few months. Lemfoerder bushings: about $130 for 6. New lower control arms are $2100 (XKR), $1400 (XK) and $600 (Lem OEM). It's the bushings that fail, not the metal.

Anyway, you can do it, or for $25 each, take the old ones and the new bushings to a machine shop and ask them to do it.

Best,
Panthera

 

great write-up. While I was having the 4 wheel alignment done after replacing all the rear suspension, the tech and I looked at the fronts. It was bizarre that while all of the rear dust jackets were torn and gone, the fronts were all fine (except for one on top, which isn't going to get my attention) Why the fronts are good and the rears wear out is a question.
Agreed that a machine shop doing the press-fitting is the way to go since this would be a one-time thing.

 

The dust caps might be affected by exposure to road crap. The front has an undertray, with the exception of the top wishbone ball joint -- and that's the caps that fail. The rears are pretty much open to the air. Just a SWAG.

 

You might have the answer, because logic would suggest that the front parts endure a lot more road forces. Just dust caps that age out and get riddled by sand and such.