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i have the 2006 - 2015 Jaguar XK & XKR (X150 series) Convertible Top SmartKey Control Module from thejagwrangler never used if anyone is interested in the marketplace
After perusing the forum for solutions to this problem, I recently followed Stuart S method with the Rhino Glue. Thank you Stuart S! Very happy with the ease ot the method and the result. I'll keep an eye on the the probable future failures, and will proceed to follow up with the same procedure with bolstered confidence!
What changes to repair procedures did you make, if any, when you switched to Rhino glue? I have all of the gear your 2017 post recommended (including the suction clamps from Amazon) but substituted Rhino glue for the failed 3M products. I am ready to repair my separated window (at the top edge) once I have a comment from you on this.
I am new to the forums so if this post gets misdirected somehow, please fellow posters, get it to Stuart S.
HCrawford
If your top has shrunken and the glass doesn't quite reach the fabric, you'll have to stretch the fabric. That's why the window separated. To stretch the fabric, you'll have to soften it. You can try a hair dryer but if that doesn't work try using a hand-held steamer. If that doesn't work, saturate the entire top with hot water to soften it. Note that the fabric must be dry for the Rhino Glue to adhere to it. After the top edge is reglued, use a hair dryer to dry at least another foot of the canvas so moisture doesn't seep into the repair, and let the rest of the top air dry. Let the glue cure for a week before putting the top down.
If that doesn't work, you need a new top.
Here's how this guy saturated and stretched his top, which appears to be vinyl. I wouldn't do it from the inside as he did, as you don't want to get the leather wet. Be sure to read the comments.
Always park with the top up. That helps to keep the fabric from shrinking.
Good advice. Most days here are top-down days, so I've been leaving mine down while in the garage to save wear and tear on the hydraulics. Top shrinkage never occurred to me.
Good advice. Most days here are top-down days, so I've been leaving mine down while in the garage to save wear and tear on the hydraulics. Top shrinkage never occurred to me.
Keeping the top up as much as possible also minimizes the fold marks and wrinkles.
Hi Stuart,
Stu W. Here. Thank you for the excellent detail! My Dad has a 2012 (mine an 2007 and still good) and his has separated like yours did. He is in SC, and
I believe his is the result of excessive use of convertible top waterproofer as others earlier have noted. ( I found the stuff more trouble than use, and have had no issues as a result.). As my older brother is living near by, I sent your pictures & detail over to him. I have my fingers crossed he will follow them. I will keep them myself in the event I have to deal with it with mine. GREAT WORK!!
School me folks on the use of "convertible top waterproofer" and how it aids in rear window deterioration? This is the first I've heard of this. Any specific brands or methods of application that's "taboo"?
BTW, I've applied the Aerospace 303 product in the past and yes I've been through this rear window repair project too. I attributed my window's deterioration to aging glues.
Newbie Here- Just got the XKR- how to relieve top tension
Hello,
I just picked up a 2010 XKR. Love it so far.
Gluing the rear window with Rhino glue is my first project. I have read the thread with the great information given. My top has shrunk a little bit (1/4 in). I want to glue the top with it’s tension relieved and not fully closed. What’s the best way to do this? I have read threads where it says not to stop the top operation in mid open/close mode.
Any input is greatly appreciated.
Hello,
I just picked up a 2010 XKR. Love it so far.
... My top has shrunk a little bit (1/4 in). I want to glue the top with it’s tension relieved and not fully closed. What’s the best way to do this? ...
Let's say that you do this, and after the glue dries you put the top up. My bet is that you'll pull that bond apart. Why risk it? I would stretch the top fabric as described in Post 365, above, before regluing the glass with the top closed.
I believe that other Forum members have opened their top slightly by tapping the switch and quickly shutting off the ignition switch to leave the rear of the top ajar. I think there are photos earlier in this thread.
I have nothing to add to my earlier posts, except that my repair using Rhino Glue is still good.
The key to a successful DIY repair is to take your time and do one section at a time. Surface prep is very important, as you need to scrape off as much of the old adhesive as possible. With mine, I had to remove the failed black 3M adhesive and then rough up the rock-hard OEM adhesive using a scraper razor blade and a small file. You'll know the right amount of Rhino Glue to use by trial and error - not too little and not too much. Just enough is when it just starts to squeeze out when the Suck N Clamp gets tight.
Read my old posts again, and posts of other members, for more tips on how to do it.
Finally getting around to posting pictures of my recent convertible top rear window fix. Got the Rhino glue - pretty good stuff, there. Got the Suck-N-Clamps. Reminds me of a line from the Wayne's World movie, "It sucks as it clamps" Good advice from both Stewart and kj07xk to leave the part of the glass that's still attached attached. I did, and it turned out to be the way to go. As you can see 3/4 of the window was pulled away, everything except for most of the top edge and a very small bit of a thread in the middle of the bottom.
So, I started from that thread in the middle of the bottom. Tape certainly helps you to not make a mess. I left the old glue on the window and used it as a guide to put the blue masking tape on. Just put the edge of the masking tape right up against the edge of the old glue. Perfect guide. Then with a razor scraper you can carefully scrape off the old glue, taking care not to cut the tape, leaving you a nice edge to glue up to. Everything about this job comes down to patience. Don't try to rush anything. Take your time. Be patient. Measure twice, glue once.
Here's a shot of the blue tape up against the old glue:
I opened the top partially, until the rear part came up about 6 inches or so, so I could get my hand under there and push up on the window glass. You'll need to support it with something or it will drop back down after a few minutes. I just used a wood block.
Also, there's an inside headliner that attaches to the top with that plastic, nubby kind of velcro stuff. You can see it in this picture. That was all pulled away from the top, and that's good. Leave it unattached and out of your way. Last thing you'll do is snap that back in place.
Here we go! First clamp in place. Like I said, there was a tiny bit in the center of the bottom still attached, and that seemed like the best place to start. I used the white masking tape on the fabric to keep from slopping glue on it. Also, a little piece of double-stick tape on the bottom of the Rhino glue stuck it to the window and make it a lot easier to handle, especially when you're trying to juggle the clamp, the window, the top, a beer...
Then, it's just a matter of working outward from there. I put a cardboard box in the car to hold up the glass. That worked pretty well to take the stress off the area where I was trying to get it to line up properly. Here's with 2 clamps -
And here's with 4 of the clamps in position.
I used popsicle sticks to spread out the clamping instead of the paint stirrer. I guess either one will work well. The shorter sticks let me work on a smaller area at a time. The big "C" clamp worked well, too, but you can only use it on the bottom edge where it's close enough for the clamp to reach. When you get to the outside edges of the window, space gets tight and you just have to do what you can, wait for the glue to set, then move on. While waiting, I started heading in the other direction...
With the middle pretty well set, I could re-position some clamps to the ends.
You can use the clamps either way, and sometimes using the butt end to hold the glued area works better, spreads out the clamping, and allows the other end to fit in the crowded space. Finishing up:
All in all, I'm like 95% happy with the job. I think I could have pulled the sides in a little tighter, because there's a bit of a loose area on each side. Trouble is, it was hard to do that without bunching up the edge somewhat, so I had to make sure that would lay down flat. If I had to do it again, I'd probably stop about half way through, let the glue set well, then close the top to see how it looked fully closed. That may avoid the problem. You can see it better on the second picture, it shows the red edge which I think is part of the rear window defogger.
All in all though, I'm happy with the job. Sure beats laying out 2 grand for a top. The upper right section wasn't done, and from all accounts it's just a matter of time before it lets go, so maybe when that happens I'll see what I can do to adjust the sides a little tighter. Thanks to everyone who provided insight and advice!
The Rhino Glue repair helped me get by for a few years. Ultimately, it gave way and wouldn't work for me any more. So I ordered a new top and replaced it. The glue no longer held (new glue), so I used duct tape until the new top came in and I had a chance to work on it.
Stuart, Your Rhino glue + clamps fix sounds good. However, I tried a completely different approach on my 2008 XK. My window disconnected at the top while the sides and bottom portions were firm. I cleaned the length of the released edge with alcohol then applied double-sided 'Gorilla Mounting Tape' (30lbs. hold) to the glass. Then removed the upper tape liner and pressed the canvas top on to the tape. I had to open the top a bit to bring the canvas in line with the window edge. I braced the window from within the car using a wooden block so I could apply pressure on the seam. I trimmed the mounting tape with a razor to line up with the canvas. I left the top down overnight to put pressure on the mounting tape to see if it would hold. Going on three weeks and still holding firm, no signs of peeling. Per your advice, I plan to apply a silicon bead along the entire window seam.
This was a very easy clean approach to the problem. I have my fingers crossed and will report back with developments in the future.
Greenville, Delaware
I recently bought a 2008 XKR Convertible Portfolio Edition. Upon purchase, I was aware that the rear window needed attention. I attempted to solve the problem by the technique used by Stuart S using clamps and Rhino glue, but unfortunately, I was unsuccessful. The canvas top had shrunk too much at the top of the window, meaning I would have to stretch the material about an inch to attach it to the window with glue. I tried to stretch the canvas using hot water, as seen in a YouTube video, however, it did not work. Even if I had managed to stretch it, the glue would not have adhered to a wet surface, and it likely would have gone back to its original shape when it dried. I also used a heat gun to try to stretch the canvas but to no avail. Unless I can come up with another solution, I will need to purchase a new top.
I recently bought a 2008 XKR Convertible Portfolio Edition. Upon purchase, I was aware that the rear window needed attention. I attempted to solve the problem by the technique used by Stuart S using clamps and Rhino glue, but unfortunately, I was unsuccessful. The canvas top had shrunk too much at the top of the window, meaning I would have to stretch the material about an inch to attach it to the window with glue. I tried to stretch the canvas using hot water, as seen in a YouTube video, however, it did not work. Even if I had managed to stretch it, the glue would not have adhered to a wet surface, and it likely would have gone back to its original shape when it dried. I also used a heat gun to try to stretch the canvas but to no avail. Unless I can come up with another solution, I will need to purchase a new top.
Vonmark here is my solution to the problem of getting the canvas top to reach the upper frame of the window: Began by opening the top slightly to a point where the front of the canvas top was about 6 inches above the front window. At this point there is slack in the canvas to work with. I placed a box on the back shelf under the window to prop the window up to a point where the canvas meets and overlapped the window. I placed a towel on the box to avoid scratching the inside of the window where the heating coils are.
Get the suction tools ready because the Rhino glue begins to harden very fast. Do a section at a time. I divided the top into 3 sections. Don't over glue, but cover whatever section of canvas covers the glass.
Apply the suction tools and wait a few minutes. Start the second (middle) and then the third section. I left the suction tools on overnight. First day out in 90F heat with the top up... the situation look promising. I plan to report back to the Forum on any developments.
PS: I originally tried Gorilla Glue + Gorilla Tape (this product has some flex and elasticity, which I believed would accommodate the flexing of the canvas top vs. Rhino glue which is solid but has no flex). The Gorilla glue failed in the hot sun.
Thanks for your suggestion to get the top to attach to the window. But I think that I would have to stretch the top for too much of a distance to glue it to the window. And if I glued the window to the top with the top in the open position, I'm afraid that it will pull loose once I close it. I've gone ahead and ordered a new GAHH top (because of references in this thread) and will get it installed by a local shop. Top and installation will come to $2,845 with 5-year warranty on the glass staying attached. Please let me know how your repair comes out.
08-07-2022, 09:32 PM
Good advice from both Stewart and kj07xk to leave the part of the glass that's still attached attached. I did, and it turned out to be the way to go. As you can see 3/4 of the window was pulled away, everything except for most of the top edge and a very small bit of a thread in the middle of the bottom.
