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Has anyone had problems with the fixed window in the convertible top coming loose? My window seems to be separating away from the top, it appears that the glue is failing and the window is slowly pulling away.
Also, I am somewhat unsure as to where to bring it, an auto upholstery shop or a good body shop
4. Adhesive Cleaner (Already had)
5. Masking tape, 1" wide and 2" wide. (Already had)
6. Cotton swabs. (Already had)
7. Rubber gloves. (Already had) You'll probably need 2 or 3 pair.
8. Standard caulk gun (Already had) for the adhesive tube.
PHASE 2. PREPARATION
1. I inspected the top again to see where it separated from the glass. I noticed a gap of about 1/4" where the top appears to have shrunken downward from the glass. The top fabric wouldn't stretch, so I decided to apply masking tape over that visible section so I wouldn't get adhesive all over it.
2. I taped the glass to keep it free of excess primer and adhesive, which are black and very sticky.
Here's the glass completely taped.
3. Next, I taped the top, making sure that I overlapped about 1/4" of tape around the upper edge, in order to keep it free of adhesive. Here's the upper edge of the top being taped.
4. I put all the suction cup clamps on the glass and aligned them with the upper edge of the top, but left them loose. Because the adhesive dries very quickly, I wanted the clamps to already be in place so I could tighten them down as soon as I applied the adhesive.
5. Lastly, I added a wider band of tape just in case I got sloppy. I'm glad I did, because I did. Disregard the green plant food measuring cup. I was going to use it as a wedge to separate the top and glass in order to get the adhesive in, but doing so was cumbersome and I simply used my left hand to hold the top up while I applied the adhesive cleaner, primer, and sealant with cotton swabs. The arrow is the point where the top separated from the glass.
PHASE 3. THE DIRTY STUFF
1. Now's the time for the gloves. I wiped both surfaces with cotton swabs soaked in adhesive cleaner, and then used new swabs to dry them off.
2. I waited about 5 minutes and then used cotton swabs to carefully apply the 3M Single Step Primer to both surfaces. I let that dry for about 10 minutes. I left all the clamps loose. Here's the open bottle of primer.
3. I decided to not use the plastic spout that came with the 3M adhesive cartridge since that would make a mess. Instead, I used cotton swabs to apply that adhesive. I pulled the tab to open the bottom of that cartridge so I could put it in the caulk gun and squeeze a small amount of adhesive into a leftover yogurt cup. Here's the opened adhesive cartridge.
And the adhesive in the cup.
I kept the tip of that cartridge temporarily sealed with a cotton swab. I used the cotton swabs to apply a thin bead of adhesive to both surfaces as quickly as I could. When that swab ran out of adhesive, I tightened the clamps and got a new cotton swab and repeated the process. Here's the separated section completely glued. As you can see, it's messy and I'm glad I masked it to keep it free of adhesive.
PHASE 4. THE HOME STRETCH
1. Although the adhesive sets up fast, I didn't want to try to remove the masking tape too soon and risk smearing adhesive on the glass, top, or paint. I waited about 30 minutes and then removed the masking tape.
DONE!
I decided to leave the clamps on overnight, just to make sure that the bond is as strong as possible.
A note about the Suck-N-Clamps. They are the greatest thing since sliced bread! I was skeptical when I saw them on Amazon, but they work much better and are far easier to use in this repair application than a standard "C" clamp. As you can see from my repair, it wasn't necessary to raise the top to insert a "C" clamp above and below the separation, or use a board to distribute the clamping force (although you could, if you wanted to do so).
I'm not a mechanic, but I'm somewhat mechanically inclined since I assemble my grandkids toys. On a scale of 1 to 10, I'd give this job a 2 - really easy. All it takes it patience and taking your time. If I can do it, so can you.
It didn't take much primer or adhesive to do this repair. There's at least 90% of the primer and adhesive left, so if you're interested in doing this repair yourself, send me a PM and I'll sell the leftover primer, adhesive, and clamps for half of what I paid plus shipping at cost.
I just got back from vacation and began to look at a solution
First Convertible top shop said $150, no warranty
Second said they dont fix those but I could bring it in and he would look
SO I contacted a local dealer and received this response:
We do not repair/reglue the soft top window. We replace the soft top which includes a new window. The cost of the top and installation is approximately $3971.00.
The warranty would be for 12 months.
I find it hard to believe this , if there is no way to repair it, shouldn't the epoxy last as long as the top? The rest of the top looks almost brand new
I was going to contact Jaguar NA , thinking this must be a manufacturing defect, but after reading the 'Leather on dash pulling' thread , I think I may be wasting my time
Any suggestions? I twas thinking of doing it myself if I could determine what epoxy to use and a method of compressing the joint until the glue set up
If your vert is still under warranty or just off of it, I think contacting Jaguar NA would be well worth your while. If you purchased or leased your car new, I would go in and speak to the Sales or general manager of the dealership.
depending on how the window is separating from the top, you may want to try McNutt Gear Aid Seam Grip which is a glue/sealer made specifically for canvas tents/outdoor gear, but worked great on the convertible top seams on my other car - MB CLK430. I was able to purchase at Dick's Sporting Goods.
There is a bulletin on repairing with special adhesive from jaguar that does work well. Is a several day repair and i dont know anyone that will touch it for the totally insanely low time given. It takes double the total repair time just to clean and prep not including taping so no adhesive goes onto material. We sublet to a glass guy that does a really good job reglueing and sealing so it has the same look around the glass. Something you wont get from the jaguar recommended repair. He charges $300
Thanks for the responses. I have an Easycare warranty and, of course, convertible tops are not covered. My only concern with using a seam glue/sealer is the glue curing time as I'm not sure if I can put any kind of clamp or pressure on the joint while the glue cures. Brutal, your statement of sending it out makes me think I may investigate repair shops a little more before attempting it myself
I just got back from vacation and began to look at a solution
First Convertible top shop said $150, no warranty
Second said they dont fix those but I could bring it in and he would look
SO I contacted a local dealer and received this response:
We do not repair/reglue the soft top window. We replace the soft top which includes a new window. The cost of the top and installation is approximately $3971.00.
The warranty would be for 12 months.
I find it hard to believe this , if there is no way to repair it, shouldn't the epoxy last as long as the top? The rest of the top looks almost brand new
I was going to contact Jaguar NA , thinking this must be a manufacturing defect, but after reading the 'Leather on dash pulling' thread , I think I may be wasting my time
Any suggestions? I twas thinking of doing it myself if I could determine what epoxy to use and a method of compressing the joint until the glue set up
Wait a minute. A new top is <$4,000? I thought a new top was closer to $11,000. Whew!!!
thanks for the responses. I have an easycare warranty and, of course, convertible tops are not covered. My only concern with using a seam glue/sealer is the glue curing time as i'm not sure if i can put any kind of clamp or pressure on the joint while the glue cures. Brutal, your statement of sending it out makes me think i may investigate repair shops a little more before attempting it myself
i asked him about cost again and its $500 as he comes to you and it is at least a 2 -4 visit job
Went to wash my wife's 2007 XK today and same problem, bet our warranty won't cover it either. Brutal is your Guy an independant or work for a national company? What type of company would I search for here in NC $500 seems like a bargain.
So went to my dealers and they said no we don't repair we only replace, fitted $5000-$5500. I asked about the adhesive and they said that they have never heard of it. Brutal by chance do you have a part number for the adhesive. I have found a convertible top shop that will have a go at rebonding the top if I can get the adhesive.
That is fantastic thanks, can't believe that our main dealer said he did not know anything about this Tech update. I will be going in today to talk to them about it.
That is fantastic thanks, can't believe that our main dealer said he did not know anything about this Tech update. I will be going in today to talk to them about it.
Dealer still does not want to do the repair! So I am left hunting for someone to do it. Not a happy bunny, they where fine with taking $5000+ off me for a new top but won't attempt the repair me thinks that there was not enough money in it for them.
Dealer still does not want to do the repair! So I am left hunting for someone to do it. Not a happy bunny, they where fine with taking $5000+ off me for a new top but won't attempt the repair me thinks that there was not enough money in it for them.
That is really pretty shabby.
On the other hand, if they do not have the skill in house to do it right, maybe it is for the best. You might be better off taking the procedure to either a window glass company or a car upholstery shop.
Isn't that convertible top repair something you could attempt yourself? It doesn't look very complicated, as long as your convertible top window damage is not separated more than the max 350mm in up to 3 different places, and you have the appropriate surface prep cleaner and adhesive.
The first , Wilde in Sarasota, originally stated they just would just replace the top for $3700+ . When I asked about the TSB they said they knew about it ( although they did not list that as an option originally) but that no car has come in that met the 350mm limitation.
As I knew my car had a 6-8 inch separation, I went out only to discover the window was almost completely detached. It was just holding on at the very bottom
I was assuming that the bouncing action when driving was partly the cause, not sitting under a cover
The second dealer I called said they didnt do those types of repairs and gave me teh number of two repair shops. He recommended googling 'Auto Interiors'
I called one of his recommendations and they also stated they just replace the top ( the other was quite a ways away)
I eventually found a repair shop , on google, and just picked it up. 300 + tax , he ran a stitch around the window , holding the fabric together and re-glued it. It looks great, I'm just hoping it holds up. ( he was also no warranty)
He also said, in Florida, its a very common problem
Sorry, I didnt see the request about pictures until after I dropped it off
Mine started as a small hole or separation in the upper left corner and was pretty stable for a while , I noticed it when it was about 4-5 inches long and it was pretty stable for a while. When I looked last, the window was almost completely unglued, along the top and down both sides
06-22-2013, 08:22 AM
Window in the Convertible top
