I've read many JF posts about the advisability of starting one's car every few weeks vs. not doing so, due to a concern about build up of condensation but my question is about the convertible Top.


I'm wondering if it is a good idea to occasionally put the Top up & down so as to exercise the mechanicals and keep the system fresh and lubricated. Similar to why it is recommended that AC systems be run in the winter (whether stored or driven) so as to keep the seals lubricated and flexible. If the seals dry out, the system can lose pressure and refrigerant. Could/will that happen with the hydraulics associated with the Top?


On a second note, while I use Sta-bil in many small power equipment units, I was hesitant to add it to PURRLL as Jaguar recommends AGAINST any gas or oil additives at all.


Thanks in advance.

 

While the top mechanism in the 2007 cars onward is a hydraulic system, it is an entirely new design by EDSCHA of Germany, and unlike like the earlier XK tops does not seem to have "issues" with leaking hoses or hydraulic seals - but Jaguar does stipulate lubrication of the rubber seals on both the body and the top so that there will be no sticking in freezing conditions (they recommend Carbaflo KSO 105).
And you do keep the battery on a maintenance unit like the CTEK, yes? (a good idea all year long whenever the car is not in daily use).

 

I backed out my 2012 the other day to warm it up and show my kids friend the car. While idling in the driveway and it was only 17*F out I pushed the top button and put it down. Everything worked like it was supposed to . Sat there for a while as all the fluids came up to temp and took a fast spin around the area. Came home and put the top back up and put it back to bed.

 

My 2002 XKR vert has its top down everyday that it's not raining, which in the San Fernando Valley is about 360 days per year. 90 degree weather today, too bad it was in the shop getting its front bumper resprayed after someone drifted back into me at a stoplight last month. Oh well, I had to suffer driving my coupe around for the day.

 

I always like to 'exercise' things occasionally, to keep the fluids flowing, the seals lubricated and the motors spinning. It can't hurt, and it probably does some good - plus you know that everything is still working, before you actually need it. For example, I don't have the car set to auto-fold the mirrors (why put wear & tear on the mechanism if you don't need to?), but I make sure I manually fold them from time to time.

As a total aside: I remember driving around Ft. Lauderdale in January in a 'vert with the top down; it was a sunny day but, being "winter", it was only 55 degrees, so I was wearing my bike jacket. The locals were all wearing fur coats and big puffer jackets and looked at me like I'd grown a second head.

 

I don't have my manual with me, but I thought there was a temperature limit, below which you shouldn't operate the top.

 

I would think there would be a limit for temp and top operation due to the fluid viscosity increasing at lower temps. Not saying they would freeze but increase pressure on hoses and seals.

I have put mine down a couple of times but only after I had it sitting in my shop all day so it had a chance to warm up a bit.

Also good luck on finding the carbaflo. Looks like it was discontinued and replaced with something else and couldn't find that either. If you find it let me know, as mine is a daily driver.

Haven't had any issues with the top seals over the winter and stopped by a Jaguar dealer to ask about some of the items the manual mentions. Tech just chuckled as Jaguar doesn't even carry them, like the Jaguar window screen cleaner, power antenna cleaner, etc.

 

Yes, but 17˚F is OK:

 

Shin-Etsu makes some incredible sealants for weather stripping and grease for convertible hinges. Highly recommneded product to just have on hand.

 

Thanks to everyone that responded. It's always been my experience that an "exercised" Jag performs better and causes fewer problems over the long term than one that sits for extended periods. Nonetheless, the convertible sits during the winter months; actually insurance is reduced to only comprehensive as she waits in the heated garage and cannot/should not be driven.


Therefore, as a result of everyone's responses, I intend to exercise the Top and the other Mechanicals of PURRLL throughout the winter months on the occasional sunny days. On a side note, my upholstery guy said it's best to keep the top up on a regular basis rather than stowed as it will extend its life. That's why, now, even during the summer months, unless there is an immediate expectation of a new drive, I put the Top up during 1-3 days storage in the garage. It's a little more of a hassle, 18 seconds up, but if it can prolong the life of the Top, I think its advisable and thrifty.


While she can't be driven because of state insurance regulations, is there really a problem with condensation in the drive train and exhaust system if one only lets her idle and exercise at 2,500-3,000 rpm for 20-30 minutes every 3-4 weeks?

 

Running your car at idle as you suggest is one of the WORST things you can do to it, and YES it will created litres of acid-laden condensate throughout the system. If the weather prevents use of the car for a minimum of a half hour *on the road* and preferably at highway speeds, then leave it alone! You do not need to run the engine at all if the car cannot be driven through the winter. Put the battery on a good battery minder (CTEK, for example) and leave it alone. Fill the fuel tank with premium fuel before its winter hibernation. You do not need additives. The car can easily "rest" for six months this way. It will start instantly when Spring comes if the battery has been kept fully charged.

 

Oh my!!!

Does it make any difference if the vehicle is 65F at start up as my garage is heated and I would think PURRLL would be less prone to excessive condensation than if it was sitting at 30F and then started? Also, I wasn't running at idle, most of the time was spent at 2,000 - 3,000 rpm as a way to really exercise the engine and produce sufficient heat to burn off the uglies.

 

This may shock you but it takes about 15 to 20 kms of driving at highway speeds to really heat the engine, transmission, driveline and exhaust *thoroughly* - the coolant temperature gauge (which the XK does not even have) is not an indicator of a thoroughly warmed engine.
In the old days when Jaguars had oil pressure gauges the point at which the engine was properly heated was very obvious. On my V12 cars I could see that the oil pressure at idle would drop significantly - but it took that long - and the experience was the same with the 6 cylinder version of the same car. And before anyone suggests it, it is not a matter of an old engine needing attention. The V12 Jaguars, when properly heated, have a low idle oil pressure (I have had many of them) - but this is not about oil pressure - it is about the thorough heating of the entire system (the oil pressure is just an indicator of the point at which everything is nice and hot) which burns away condensate. Before that point you are adding corrosive condensate...periodic starting and stationary running of the engine is bad for the engine, bad for the exhaust system, and a waste of fuel; leaving the car sit not-started is less harmful overall. Just put the battery on a good battery minder, have the fuel tank full of premium and leave it alone until you can really USE it.

 

I remember similar oil gauge action from my TR-6. The difference is that the TR had SAE90EP in the trans & rear vs the high tech stuff in today's Jags and I had installed a stainless steel exhaust system with no Cats.


I would idle at 2,000 to 3,000 rpm often during Timmy's winter hiatus as insurance would be reduced which would not allow for road trips. That engine reached over 225,000 miles before I decided to rebuild it. In reality it still performed at about 80% of rated bhp, but it was rebuilt to bring it back up to OEM standards as I considered installing a Lucas Mark II Petrol Injection system that increases bhp by 50%+ and wanted to be sure that the engine components could withstand the higher stresses. I didn't have condensation problems then, thought I wouldn't now. That's my history, Timmy didn't suffer from the occasional winter start-up, but there is no doubt that today's drivetrain & exhaust are different.


I guess "tried and true" has to be adjusted to reflect new technologies.