The thread from 2021 has an excellent description of the removal of the boot plinth to access the loose release button. It describes finding the first two screws, 7mm BTW, under the plastic caps readily visible and popped off carefully with a screwdriver.

It then describes two additional screws securiing the plinth under the license plate lights but doesn't advise how to access them. Pretty sure that they don't pry out and suspect that it involves the removal of the lid flocked padding but a little more instruction would be beneficial. I try to subscribe to the first fo no harm philosophy.😀

I can see through the hole that the actuator button flange is cracked and will attack that with JB Weld once I get in there. I'll provide photos once farther along.
Thanks in advance for more information on freeing the button!

 

I removed my plinth recently in prep for a backup camera project that is now sadly stalled and yes, you need to remove the felt liner from the lid to get to the plinth screws. John at To The Garage has a video on how to do it, check out from 4:23 here

 

Thanks!

 

Mine is a 2007 XKR 150 and I am requesting that the Moderators move the thread if possible. I pried out the license plate lights, they are prised from the center with a thin screwdriver taping the trim so as to not scratch it.

Once the light fixtures are out there are additional 7mm screws underneath. Removal of these and the outboard ones under the plastic plugs allow the plinth to be pulled out. There are additional clips on each side, one came out easily and the other required some force. Nervous that I would break it, but finally came loose.

The trunk, boot release button is secured, and I use the term loosely, by two T10 screws maybe 3/16 long into a plastic boss on the reverse side of the plinth. These are both broken off at their base which is why the button is loose. Forgive me but I have to say that this might be some of the worse engineering I've seen. A C clip type spring retainer would have been way more secure and faster on the assembly line.

My plan of attack is trying to re-secure the broken tiny plastic bosses to the plinth with JB Weld and potted all around them. I'll have to redrill the holes once cured.
There are two other holes at a 90 degree sitting on the button housing. A better fix would be to find small flat head screws to epoxy to the plinth to run up through the button housing, but don't think I'll be making it to the hardware store.

I also considered drilling through the bottom of the plinth where those other mounting holes are and running an aluminum rivet up through it. The rivet head would be under the plinth and only visible when the lid is open.

Plan B though will be to run a head of epoxy around the rim of the button housing if I think that the screw reinforcement doesn't seem secure enough. It will mean that the next guy has to replace the whole works should the button fail. Here's some photos so far.

PS thanks to the moderators for moving my thread!


The 7mm screws hidden under the license plate lights. Gaffer's tape to protect the finish.

Highly fragile mounting arrangement for the trunk button. Each side broken off

 

Maybe use JBWeld to secure some machine nuts where those broken plastic bosses are? Then use the proper machine screws to do the securing.
I've had my plinth off several times for various reasons and never had a problem with the boot button. I DID break the tab on one of the plate light housings though.

 

The tolerance is very small however requiring maybe a two or three millimeter tightening range. Perhaps small washers above the bracket could fine tune the tightening depth.

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You're freaking me out with talk of breaking plastic pieces.

 

I have a few repairs using JBWeld. That license light, several interior panel attaching pin mounts and maybe something else. Plastic gets old and brittle.

 

Aye, don't we all. 😉

A side note for anyone doing this. The plastic fixtures have to come off the lamp holder for the plinth to come away. Take a clothes pin or similar light clamp to put on the wire to prevent them from disappearing down the hole. Yes, this happens. I had to remove the boot lid finish felt anyway just to retrieve one. Wouldn't have had to do it if I knew that.

Trying to refasten that booger is really difficult if you try to slide the button back into the steel slides.

The trick is to remove all of the Christmas tree fasteners from the metal boot lid, place them into the steel slides on the liner and then snap it back in place.

Looking at the plinth with it's sad worn silver I decided to go to the dark side. I had a can of Rust-Oleum satin black for plastic and after wiping it down with denatured alcohol gave it a new finish.

I polished up the license plate lenses with Nexus plastic polish and will be installing LED lamps once the whole works are cured
Pics to follow.

 

The job is finished! Here's the glued and reinforced plastic bosses to hold the boot release button and once fastened I potted it slightly with JB Weld clear five minute epoxy.

I didn't have any silver paint to dress up the plinth so I used the satin black. Plugged in the T10 LED lamps and put it back together. The lamps are described as CANBUS and I've not had any codes thrown. It's not perfect, but then again neither am I!





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