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It doesn't get used much but this is where I connected the comfort connector on my '10 XKR when I moved it over from my '07 XKR.
The positive lead is secured under an existing nut on the battery terminal and the negative is behind one of the bolts that secures the battery clamp. The connector then pokes out from behind the carpet covered battery cover.
[CITA = JagV8; 2213401] ¿Quién hace eso regularmente? Ciérralo. Tiene una solución fácil y sensata, úsela como está diseñada. Luego, el 4.2 no se agota, ya que de otra manera se dice calvo. [/ QUOTE]In my home garage my family has 6 cars in use.
The one that takes several days without using the jaguar and any of the others and you check the battery voltage I always find that the one with the lowest voltage is the jaguar even having charged the batteries of both cars 2 weeks before the jaguar presented the battery at 70% while the others remain practically 100%.
That for me is a big electrical design error on the part of the jaguar since the other vehicles have the same equipment and it doesn't happen to them.
It's hardly surprising after a few days if a newer design has dropped less, as it uses parts with lower power consumption - in fact it would be odd if that were NOT the case!
If you measure what the consumption has dropped to, is it under the Jaguar spec? My car has almost the same electrics as yours and is well under.
It's hardly surprising after a few days if a newer design has dropped less, as it uses parts with lower power consumption - in fact it would be odd if that were NOT the case!
If you measure what the consumption has dropped to, is it under the Jaguar spec? My car has almost the same electrics as yours and is well under.
That is precisely why I define it as an electrical design defect.
I am comparing it with older and newer cars and the result is always the same. The one who discharges the battery first is always the jaguar.
Well, as I say, not for me. Which is partly why I asked whether yours does drop below the current (mA) Jaguar say and stays there.
Of course earlier cars had almost no electronic/computer modules so really couldn't leak power and are not worth including in any comparison. (I used to have a Ford with just one computer module, for example, and before that cars with none, so these can't by included in any meaningful way.)
I could put mine on a ctek-type device but have never need to - though if power loss was a problem I'd get one and be happy enough. I suppose selling the car would be an option...
Well, as I say, not for me. Which is partly why I asked whether yours does drop below the current (mA) Jaguar say and stays there.
Of course earlier cars had almost no electronic/computer modules so really couldn't leak power and are not worth including in any comparison. (I used to have a Ford with just one computer module, for example, and before that cars with none, so these can't by included in any meaningful way.)
I could put mine on a ctek-type device but have never need to - though if power loss was a problem I'd get one and be happy enough. I suppose selling the car would be an option...
Mine falls below the value marked by jaguar, which is correct.
But a car that after turning off the engine without shutting it down takes 45 min to stop consuming 5.4 A is still a nefarious engineering design.
There are many cars on the market that have as many or more computers and do not raise the idle power consumption to 5.4 A.
I do not see the solution to sell since I like the car, but when a car has a design defect it must be recognized.
Anyway I celebrate that yours is not within what is very normal in this model
Hi everyone. Sorry I have not been back in touch on this issue. Firstly I would like to say huge thanks to everyone for their sentiments towards us in Spain - massively appreciated. Of course I would like to return the same words of hope and best wishes to everyone and especially all of you in the Jaguar community in your respective countries. Its a reminder that we should try to be more united especially with something so indiscriminate as this virus.
Although my initial concern was how to keep from killing what was a brand new battery in the car I bought just 3 weeks prior to shut down, I also needed a longer term solution as the car isn't my daily driver and will only ever get weekend use. As much as I love starting it up and giving it throttle blips thats not the best thing for the car (!!) so I decided on the best solution for me which was connect direct to the batter terminals with the screw-on clips that come with the charger. The crocodile-style clips I do use on other cars but they are prone to springing off as they are quite small and with the battery quite inaccessible I didn't want to go that route. Photo below of the pig-tail connection which just pokes out nicely below the trim cover and the charger is sufficiently cabled to allow it to be sat on the garage floor and connected to the pig tail with boot closed so I can see the green light working to tell me its charged or if flashing its charging.
Really looking forward to getting back in my old X300 XJ6 daily when this is all over - I left it in Gibraltar when the lock down started and haven't seen it for many weeks now! Miss the old girl.
Stay safe everyone and best wishes
Last edited by GGG; 07-08-2020 at 02:33 AM.
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Hi yes - its a trickle charger like a C-Tek but cheaper version. Light flashes when its charging, stays solid green when its at charge. These types of chargers are purpose designed for cars left idle like this - totally different from a basic battery charger - actually I have several basic chargers (Einhell's from Amazon) - but I use these mainly for electrolysis rather than actually charging batteries as they provide a constant voltage/amps and could be described as "dumb" chargers as they literally do that from switch on to switch off.
Here are a few examples of my use of the same type - 30 euro on Amazon - Black & Decker. Also a case in point about the crappy crocodile clips with these. You'll see one photo is of a Shogun 3.2diD 4x4 - when I went to take these photos I tried to start it - dead! Opened bonnet and clip had fallen off - rubbish. So you can see in photo I have just screwed pig tail to battery!!
Hi yes - its a trickle charger like a C-Tek but cheaper version. Light flashes when its charging, stays solid green when its at charge. These types of chargers are purpose designed for cars left idle like this - totally different from a basic battery charger - actually I have several basic chargers (Einhell's from Amazon) - but I use these mainly for electrolysis rather than actually charging batteries as they provide a constant voltage/amps and could be described as "dumb" chargers as they literally do that from switch on to switch off.
Hi Sam,, I also live in Spain and have the same Black&Decker battery maintainer, it has been connected for six days and the green light is still flashing, looks like it never gets full charge. Have you ever seen the light solid green?
Hi Sam,, I also live in Spain and have the same Black&Decker battery maintainer, it has been connected for six days and the green light is still flashing, looks like it never gets full charge. Have you ever seen the light solid green?
Hello xfportfolio
Six days does seem like a long time not achieve the fully charged solid green indicator.
A couple thoughts:
- Is there a good connection of the charger to the battery?
- Is the charger providing sufficient voltage to charge the battery? Should be something like 13 to 14.5 VDC when charging the battery.
- Is the battery capable of holding a full charge? Measure the battery voltage without the charger. You should measure about 12.6 VDC if the battery is fully charged. My thought is the battery may not be able to achieve a full charge so the charger voltage monitoring circuit never shuts off the charger. Maybe try the charger on another car’s battery.
Stay well!
Mike
V7Sport thanks for your reply. This morning I checked the battery charge and it was 12.54v, so it is almost fully charged. My problem was that I chose the wrong point to connect the ground terminal.
At this point there is no continuity, therefore it could have been charging eternally without result. Now my maintainer is connected here...
V7Sport thanks for your reply. This morning I checked the battery charge and it was 12.54v, so it is almost fully charged. My problem was that I chose the wrong point to connect the ground terminal.
At this point there is no continuity, therefore it could have been charging eternally without result. Now my maintainer is connected here...
...and light is solid green now.
Excellent! And an inexpensive solution.
Stay well.
Mike
This pic shows the positive terminal behind the cover in the trunk. The rubber cap is in the way in the photo - the CTEK fly-lead connector is attached by removing the nut, placing the fly-lead connector and replacing the nut.
This shows where I made the ground connection.
This is all you see in the trunk after installation.
I use an extended CTEK lead from these connections concealed behind the side trim which then exits through the LH vent in the luggage compartment like barnsie's in post #38.
Hi Barnsie, why not directly to the battery's terminals?
Easier to install this way. The two terminals in the rear of the trunk are put there by Jaguar for jump starting the car, so they are a direct connection to the battery. I used the red positive terminal but just hooked the negative (ground) to a convenient bolt as you can see. The negative terminal in the rear of the trunk is less accessible than the positive - you would need to use it for jump starting I would guess, due to the bigger load, but for a trickle charger like the CTEK, any decent ground point will do.
My method isn't better (or worse) than connecting directly to the battery - it is just another way to do it which I found easier that's all.
** Note that my car is the 4.2 model, not the 5.0.
04-04-2020, 04:56 PM
