15 XKR Front Lower Control Arm Replacement(can’t get hydrabush bolt out)

Due to leaking hydrabushing on my ‘15 Jaguar XKR front lower control arms, I’m replacing the arms. The right side came off with no issues. But, on the left side,I can’t get the large bolt that goes through the hydra bush to come out the holes in the frame. I’ve attached a picture for reference. This is an online photo not mine. The bolt needs to come out through holes in the frame. But, it seems something in the frame is blocking the head from coming out. Has anyone encountered this issue? How did you deal with it?

 

Watching this one.
I’ve seen a YouTube somewhere of the process.
Memory leaning towards Life on Cars. But maybe not.

I will have to replace both of my front lowers in the Spring (or if they develop play before that).

So, @XKDreams if you are willing to share details on where you sourced the parts and anything else, I would be extremely grateful.
Especially the part where you have to worry about alignment. Some video talked about marking a bolt which I found confusing.

 

Check this XFR video - guy says bolt being blocked from going through chassis - it may be something similar to your issue - 4 mins 20 seconds in:

 

That’s the one!!!

I don’t have nearly the tools or the skills he does.
Not buying a press.
So I expect my DIY to be a pure adventure.

 

Well, that’s probably my issue. I’ll be attacking it tomorrow. I appreciate the help ya’all offered. After I finish I’ll do a write up. One less learned already, is to remove both underside covers. I thought I could get away with only removing the front one. But, now my hand and arm looks like I got into a fight with a real live Jaguar.

 

Thank you sir!
My future self will be eternally grateful for your sacrifice.

 

Maybe replacing the entire lower control arm is the way to go?

 

At times its hard to be Catholic in your procedures. Look into cutting the bolt, replacing it, and changing its direction.

 

just removed mine without issue and pressed in powerFlex bushings but need to find the bushings for where the sway bar end links attach to the lower control arm. I use rock auto or partsgeek. Anyone know where these bushings can be found ?

Need these bushings

Replaced lower ball joint boot.

Lmk if anyone wants the boot size for ref on 2015 xkr.


H&R sport lowering springs. Lowers 1.3”

This is the end link where I need the bushes red in first picture

 

@Circumnavigator The bolt he is saying to mark has an eccentric cam on it. Rotating it causes the arm to move thus changing alignment. Just mark a line on the cam and frame(paint pen, scribe, felt tip) and put the eccentric bolt back in the same position on reinstall. I'll see if I can insert a pic as an example. Hope this helps. You'll easily understand it when you see it.

 

Thanks. I’ve seen a couple of vids that show them marking for alignment.
But, as I know less than nothing about these components or how they work with one another, seeing it done has helped me not a bit.
I’m sure once one actually does, it it all clicks.

This is an early spring project for me, so I have some time to watch similar style suspension vids and get a better understanding of alignment, candor and all that.

In the interim, I’m hoping to find the best balance between price and quality for the parts.
Most of the boots/bushes are perished, but there is no play yet.
What I did notice is after new tires and an alignment, 100mi of driving has the alignment a tad off again.

I need lower stuff both front and rear. This is from my post-purchase indie inspection:
Front Suspension:
• Replace both front lower control arms (forward and rearward)
• Perform four-wheel alignment after installation
Estimated Total – $2,775Rear Suspension:
• Rear toe adjustment link replacement – $825
• Rear sway bar link rod replacement – $450
Obviously DIY will shave that closer to $1000 from the parts prices I saw a month or so ago.

I’m only concerned about not mucking up the alignment enough to safely get to my alignment shop.

At one point I had looked at (Stuart? Sean?)’s post about one and done with a whole kit from eBay.
But given what you see my indie shop charges, even with my parts and just labor, that’s too big a project$$ right now.

 

Stuart bought an entire kit from eBay and had it installed I do my own work except alignments, as DIY alignments aren't worth saving $100. At any rate, if you do your own replacement work and put the bolts back as @luv2fly suggested, you will be fine getting to an alignment shop. Just do front and rear at the same time to save having to do two alignments. mark and take pics before and after to compare. It's just suspension work and there's nothing special about Jaguar/Ford.

 

@Circumnavigator
When you replace the toe links at the rear, just measure or count the threads, or lay the old and new rods side by side and get them as equal as possible. For the front tie rod ends, loosen the nut just enough to get the tie rod free to rotate for removal. Then count the exposed threads and set the new tie rod nut to the same location as the old. You'll be close enough to get to the alignment shop. Caster (forward or rear tilt of the upright) can't increase tire wear. Camber (inward or outward tilt of the top of the tire) can but you would obviously see it and still could get to the alignment shop ok. Marking those eccentrics is what gets you close.

 

Again, just make sure the tie rod and rear toe rod lengths of the old and new are close and you'll be fine. This job is time consuming, but very simple. Just nuts and bolts. Look at the bolt heads for the major components and if it has a cam, mark it before loosening it. Make sure all toe links, old and new are close to the same length when tightened back up and all will be well. It really is that simple. Lots of websites illustrate toe, camber and caster. And good books if you really want to dive in and understand the effects. One example here:
https://www.speedwaymotors.com/the-t...ber-toe/143481

Don't sweat this. Just plan a couple days to complete. It's less complicated than some of the other jobs you've mentioned tackling.

 

Count the turns off, then the same, to go on.