Hey all, we seem to have a distinct shortage of "how to" threads here......

Please advise as and when any info worthy of addition becomes available and we will gladly update them.
Lets get this section moving, onwards n upwards

 

Jim,


As a newbie here but a longtime XK120 restorer, I would be happy to help with tech/how-to questions. I have or can take photos of most any roadster part.
Mike

 

Hi, I was willed a less than good condition '53 FHC XK120 by my father. He bought it about 35 years ago as a barn find in somewhat rusted and missing parts condition and it was in the process of being "lumped".

He got a Jag 3.4 engine (blue painted block MKII?) from a friend and they installed it into the body. He then covered it with tarps, stuck it under his elevated porch and left it till he died 3 years ago. I got it back here to Texas and set about trying to buy parts I could see I needed. All moveable parts were in unknown condition. The engine hasn't been started, but does turn over. The tranny does shift and the clutch seems to work. The brakes blew some hoses when I tried them so thought about what to to do, I took off the tandem master cylinder and inspected the fronts (ones that blew). I bought new hoses, disassembled the front brakes and saw some of the shoe material was gone. Shoes are ridiculously expensive, so I decided to put XKE disc brakes (which I had) on it with the requisite XKE and 150 parts. That went well and now it is time to turn to the steering gear. Since the original steering parts are ostensibly NLA and mine is apart and has pieces missing, I decided to explore what it would take to put an extra XKE rack and pinion I have on it. I know this has been done in the past (probably with 140 racks), but before I can decide what to do or whether I want to do it, I need to know what exactly I have to do to fit a rack. I've really searched and asked around on various forums, but nobody seems to have a "DIY how-to" knowledge on this. I am very comfortable with major projects and have most or all the tools I'll need to do this. I also have an XK140 radiator which I might need. I know there has to be some welding of rack mounts (XKE?) and, traditionally, radiator relocation and some cutting of the side engine bay areas, but I think some newer, thick radiator could be mounted above the rack thus not doing the traditional stuff. The thing is I have these ideas, but don't have the instructions or parts list to even consider this.

Can you help with this? I know it won't be original and god knows I haven't the money or inclination to go concours, but I figure clever invention might just work here.

I've done some work on the body and that will be a real chore, I know, as these things were really hand built. But, I have already fabricated and welded new floors for bolting in, a new spare tire well, fixed the door hinges and some other things and I'll do more as things progress. I've made new pieces to fill those firewall areas they torched off when trying to lump it. But these other things have intrigued me and I haven't been been able to pry loose any real, substantive information.

Since you say you've done a lot of restoration work on these, I thought you might be able to answer these questions.

Thanks for any consideration and best regards,

Brian

 

Brian,
If you have most of the original steering components, I would forget the rack idea...List missing components, I have a friend with some used parts.


I am in the process of putting a XK120 OTS body on a XK150 frame using a XK140 OTS bonnet and rad.
If you decide to proceed, you will have to modify or replace the bonnet, bonnet latch and side panels, replacement radiator, make radiator mounts, bumper bracket, steering column and wheel.
The list goes on and on.
I like the thicker/smaller rad idea but overheating was always a problem.


I have tried to attach a few pictures but they do not appear in my preview.


Mike

 

You wrote back to me that "If you decide to proceed, you will have to modify or replace the bonnet, bonnet latch and side panels, replacement radiator, make radiator mounts, bumper bracket, steering column and wheel.
The list goes on and on.
I like the thicker/smaller rad idea but overheating was always a problem."

Then you tried to post some pics though I don't know of what. SO can you send them directly to me? alpha then the word jag then the at symbol then an a and another a then a t then a dot net.

I'd love to ask other questions which you might have an insight into.

 

Brian,

I find this site/forum impossible to use.

If you get this message, email me(mike@xkss.com)

 

I have a 53 FHC 120 with modification everywhere. Jag trans with a 327 Chevy. Runs good, shifts fine. You mentioned radiator. Man was that difficult to find. I am not made of money, and I thought I would have my original re cored and fixed... NOPE, the copper alone was 700 before labor, I was looking at 1200. That was a maybe price. I found a chinese double core aluminum one, 71 cm. 350. I thought I would take a chance, It fit perfectly. Since you said your will not be original, this worked for me and may work for you. It has a 327 in front of it, it doesnt over heat at all!! Lots of power. for 69 years old, she gets down and moves. Hope this helps ya, good luck.
Burdinest

 

Over the years I have developed a range of Tool Bags for the Jaguar XK120 and now the E Type.

The Bags / Rolls are exact replicas of the original Bags supplied by the Jaguar factory for each car. The Size, Shape, Patterns are correct facsimiles of the originals. We have also tried to duplicate the exact colors and textures of the Bags to match the various years. The biggest challenge was to find a correct Center Bridge Buckle as they are no longer available. Ours are made by a jeweler and are esthetically and visually correct. Finally, the original Rexine Edge Trimming material not being available anymore , we have found a alternate material that is visually the same.

I am hoping to post some images here. This is my first post on the forum, so please wish me luck!


Here is a picture of the early XK120 in Tan Canvas and Red Burlap/Hessian with tools installed to show what the Roll would look like complete. I only supply the Tool Bags, but can assist you in finding the correct tools for your car.

Exterior of the Tool Bag with correct Belt and Buckle.

Detail showing the materials and the quality of stitching. This includes the correct stitch length as was done by the factory.

Closeup of the correct Buckle and surrounding details.

Top View of the Bag showing all the correct aspects of the design.

Rear View of the Bag.

I will be posting the various Colors and Variations, correct for your Model and Year.

 

Is the XK120 roll the same for a XK140 (1956)? Also, on my car all the leather straps and buckles for the jack and trunk items and the lid hold open are broken. The leather straps and buckles you have look perfect. Can you sell some of those or guide me to a source? Finally, where about in Michigan are you? I grew up in Detroit and the suburbs. I last lived in Troy before moving to New York 35 years ago.

Vern

 

The Tool Bags / Rolls for the various models are different, depending on the model, the materials and colors varied. The shape and proportions are the same until the E Type came along.

As far as some of the other Leather Straps go, I also make the Strap mounted in the Trunk to hold the Tool Bag. It’s a different size and has a different Buckle.

Let me know how I can help you.
I hope this won’t get me in trouble as I looked for a Classified Section but could not find one. PM me.

 

As you asked, I live in Bloomfield Hills, Michigan. Having been there, I’m sure you know where it is…

 

My adult son may have misaligned the "change-speed" (shift) lever on our Jag XK120. I would like to talk briefly with someone who has removed or reinstalled the shift lever, to learn how to align it.

Roger Bohl
707-933-6836
rhbohl@gmail.com

 

where can i buy one and what is the price? i have a black 52 xk120fhc frame off restored--terry