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Security module check in boot/trunk

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  #1  
Old 09-03-2013, 12:45 PM
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Default Security module check in boot/trunk

Hello, I am working through the faults on my newly purchased XK8 1999 coupe. I have tried without success to get the key fob to program. Hopefully I have the correct fob and key. I can get the system to learning mode by using the flashing high beam method, but I do not get an audible sounding. I believe sometimes this is the case and the audio is not always heard. I have found a connection just behind and next to the fuse box on the drivers side to have been disconnected, the electrical connector which is white in colour is a two way unit and has an orange and blue/white wire. I do not know what this connection is for or if it has anything to do with the fob issue.
My point of this post is to ask how to remove the security module in the boot/trunk so I can check the connections. My theory is the car is 14 years old and jag electrics were always poor, hopefully it will be a high resistance connector which will be able to be cleaned and the problem sorted.
The security unit is the one under the main fuse box next to the battery.
Any help greatly appreciated.
Kind regards,
Arty
 
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Old 09-03-2013, 02:51 PM
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Originally Posted by ArtyH
Hello, I am working through the faults on my newly purchased XK8 1999 coupe. I have tried without success to get the key fob to program. Hopefully I have the correct fob and key. I can get the system to learning mode by using the flashing high beam method, but I do not get an audible sounding. I believe sometimes this is the case and the audio is not always heard. I have found a connection just behind and next to the fuse box on the drivers side to have been disconnected, the electrical connector which is white in colour is a two way unit and has an orange and blue/white wire. I do not know what this connection is for or if it has anything to do with the fob issue.
My point of this post is to ask how to remove the security module in the boot/trunk so I can check the connections. My theory is the car is 14 years old and jag electrics were always poor, hopefully it will be a high resistance connector which will be able to be cleaned and the problem sorted.
The security unit is the one under the main fuse box next to the battery.
Any help greatly appreciated.
Kind regards,
Arty
Disconnect the battery.
Remove the 3 boot fusebox retaining bolts.
Remove the 3 or 4 wiring harness fir tree clips on the fusbox.
Lift up the fusebox to access the underside.
The SLM is simply clipped in place under the fusebox.

If there are no obvious corrosion issues, you may have a bad SLM. They do fail occasionally.
 
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Old 09-03-2013, 05:30 PM
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Hi WhiteXKR, thanks for a very quick and concise explanation. I will try this tomorrow.
 
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Old 09-04-2013, 09:24 AM
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Well after looking through the treads again and finding a list of the acronyms and letters used to identify certain parts, life is a lot easier or clearer. I tried the search function using SLM instead of SM and lots more posts came up. I have to say thank you again to WhiteXKR for answering my question- the same one you have answered numerous times with the same dedication and courtesy. Sometimes people ask believing they have checked all the possible routes like I did and have to ask, sorry for wasting you time!
However I have been back to the car today armed with what WhiteXKR has told me and eventually got the SLM out of the car ( one of the multi connectors was really difficult to remove ) on external inspection all connections appeared great and were sprayed with contact cleaner, then reassembled, 5 minute job. Tried the flashers to program the fob again.....same problem.
What I did note was the SLM# LJB2600BC is different to the key fob which is LJB2610BA. Could this be the reason the fob will not work? The car will work with the key as it is chipped I believe, but the fob needs to handshake with the SLM....is that correct?
Any thoughts please? Hopefully this will be another one off the check list soon.
Kind regards,

Arty
 
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Old 09-04-2013, 09:37 AM
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Arty,

To eliminate the possibility the PO has been down this road already and the module has already been swapped, check the SLM serial number matches the one on the VCATS label:

Security module check in boot/trunk-vcats-label.jpg

This has all the original module serial numbers fitted to the vehicle. It's behind the boot carpet on the RH side.

Graham
 
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Old 09-04-2013, 09:51 AM
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Before you go any further, what frequency is embossed on the back of your key fob (??? MHz). I want to make sure you have the correct one for the UK.

Does your fob have slightly different shape buttons are they all exactly the same shape? I want to make sure you have the correct fob for your year.

Also have you cleaned the switch contacts and checked the battery?

Part numbers for the module and fob are not supposed to match.
 
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Old 09-04-2013, 10:13 AM
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[QUOTE=WhiteXKR;805277]
Q) Before you go any further, what frequency is embossed on the back of your key fob (??? MHz).

A) Its 433.92MHz.

Q) Does your fob have slightly different shape buttons are they all exactly the same shape?

A) All the same shape, kind of oblong case.

Also have you cleaned the switch contacts and checked the battery?

A) I have changed the batteries 2X CR2018 3v cells, very thin. New batteries fitted as when I got the car the batteries were in the wrong way and had discharged, all the contacts were cleaned and some corrosion from the battery printed cct board was cleaned off, very small amount about 3mm square, did not eat into the face plate. Fob was tested on a remote checker at my local auto parts shop and appeared to work.
 
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Old 09-04-2013, 10:34 AM
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OK, it all sounds correct

Verify the SLM module part is correct against the label that GGG described.

If that matches, chances are you have a bad SLM. See if you can get one from a breaker. You will need to match the 3 digit VCATs code on the label with that from the donor car (If the breaker knows Jags, he should be able to do this).

If you cannot match the VCATS, the replacement module will need to be reprogrammed by a dealer or Jag independent.
 
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Old 09-04-2013, 10:40 AM
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I'll have to let you know tomorrow what the Vcats tell me, the car is in storage now and its a 10 mile to and from trip for me, so til tomorrow, and many thanks again Graham and WhiteXKR .
 
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Old 09-04-2013, 12:28 PM
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Have been back to the garage and the Vcats info is: SLM is # LJB2600BC/012. I take it the module is correct but non functional?

One on ebay but its a LJB2600BB, any chance that would work or is it a reprogram job and more hassle than it worth?
Or what could I do to make it work if anything?

Thanks for the efforts thus far.

Kind regards,

Arty
 

Last edited by ArtyH; 09-04-2013 at 12:47 PM.
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Old 09-04-2013, 12:58 PM
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There is a chance it would work, but I would not bet on it.

This is an earlier part, (BB vs. BC) and backwards compatibility is not assured. You would have better chances with forward compatibility.

Also if you cannot confirm the VCATS, you should try to confirm it at least came from a coupe and not a convertible.

I would not chance it unless it was really cheap or fully refundable.


Originally Posted by ArtyH
Have been back to the garage and the Vcats info is: SLM is # LJB2600BC/012. I take it the module is correct but non functional?

One on ebay but its a LJB2600BB, any chance that would work or is it a reprogram job and more hassle than it worth?
Or what could I do to make it work if anything?

Thanks for the efforts thus far.

Kind regards,

Arty
 
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Old 09-04-2013, 01:42 PM
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+1

It's a gamble if the full serial number isn't identical. Here's the Jaguar TSB on module compatability:

418-03 Control Modules - Compatibility.pdf

You'll see from sections 2 and 3 that a straightforward 'plug & play' isn't usually the case with modules.

From your description of the fob condition, I'd still be more inclined to suspect that before the module.

Graham
 
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Old 09-05-2013, 08:22 AM
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Arty
I went through all this with my 2003 XKR, it ended up being the SLM.
Regards
Keith
 
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Old 09-05-2013, 10:25 AM
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Thanks for the info and advice Keith, I am beginning to think that also, but hope Graham is right and its the fob. I am looking for a replacement on ebay together with an appropriate fob as a spare.
What would be a reasonable price to pay for the SLM and fob if you have recently made the purchase? The car is in storage now so I am not in any hurry and can just bide my time with a second hand one, for that matter its not really urgent at all, its just I like to have things working correctly.
Thanks for taking the time to advise.
 

Last edited by ArtyH; 09-05-2013 at 10:29 AM. Reason: Additional info
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Old 09-05-2013, 10:35 AM
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Just a few more idea's, I have been doing the attempted programing inside the car with the door shut, just occurred to me, is there a sensor for the remote so you cannot lock your keys in the car?
Should the programing be done or tested outside the car or is it immaterial?

Just found this site by accident :

Repair - Jaguar S X XF XJ XK type Remote Key Fob 4 Button

Will probably give them a try shortly as I don't need the key/car, was told it would be £40 including P+P.
Hopefully the link for repairs will be of help to someone on the site.
 
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Old 09-06-2013, 04:30 AM
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Arty
If the problem is the key-fob you need the correct key number to be able to programme it yourself.
If the problem is the SLM a Jaguar dealer can programme any key to the new SLM.
I went to a Jaguar main dealer and had a new SLM fitted and all keys programmed. This took under an hour and if I remember correctly it was about £400 all in [ I thought that was a good price ]
Regards
Keith
 
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Old 09-06-2013, 06:47 AM
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Keith, many thanks for replying with the advice. I have until April 2014 to find both a key fob and second hand SLM, hopefully ebay will be fruitful and I may save a bit of hard earned.
Many thanks to everyone who has advised or commented on my vehicle's problems.

Bought a fob on ebay it should be with me early next week, also found another Indy jag specialist about 30 miles away with all the gear for doing the keys and programing, said it would be around £20. He sounded very helpful and I will give him a call when I get the car back on the road in April, he gave me a few tips about other possible problems ie tensioners, gearbox etc and he has connections for well priced second hand parts to which is a bonus.
Quite comforting to know and he has been in the business for about 25 years so is a stable company, Alan Carr Jaguar Services ( should be good for repairs ) of North Shields in Northumberland, sounded great on the phone and appeared to know what he was talking about.
We shall see soon enough.
 

Last edited by ArtyH; 09-06-2013 at 12:09 PM. Reason: Update info
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Old 09-07-2013, 10:55 AM
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Well here is another update, and a positive one too. Went to a local auto locksmith today on the off chance the original fob was repairable. Presented the guy with the fab and he tested it with one of his units, I watched and nothing registered. He asked " do you want me to repair it? ", I said "yes but how much will it be?". He said " first we will get ride of these crap Chinese batteries and take it form there ". Batteries replaced and fob tested and lo and behold the receiver registered the fob, you could have knocked me over with a feather! It cost me £7.00. Believing this to be just a coincidence and not holding any hope my wife and I returned to the garage where Blue 8 is kept. I unlocked her and got inside,programmed as per the norm ( with drivers door open, if that is relevant? ) but this time after getting into program mode ( red light on console but no audible warning ), when the fob buttons were pressed the red light flicked on. Got out of the car and tried the lock and it worked, all other buttons worked also. Result!!!
The auto locksmith told me to never use Chinese batteries always go for Panasonic/Maxcell or other brand make as they last longer and are better all round.
Many thanks again to ALL who contributed to helping me, gives me a bit more confidence to tackle the tensioners next April.
 

Last edited by ArtyH; 09-07-2013 at 11:30 AM.
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Old 09-07-2013, 10:59 AM
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Originally Posted by GGG
+1


From your description of the fob condition, I'd still be more inclined to suspect that before the module.

Graham
I just hope you are as correct about the gearbox problem as you were about this one mate, thanks again and well done great advice. My spare key comes early next week, so still a winner......
 
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Old 09-07-2013, 11:01 AM
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7 quid has to be a good result, compared to module changing.
 


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