Hi Guys,

My Jag just reaches 50K miles....I just did the Tranny fluids and filter last year

what else do I need to do?

Plugs?
Fuel filter?
Brake fluids?
Coolant?

She's sitting pretty as I post this.

 

Except for plugs I think you could do the rest.

 

I'm guessing the Maintenance Check Sheet (*) is on the site?

Jaguar usually (always?) say to do things on the sooner of time or mileage so you should (on that basis) have already done the 10-year etc things.

(*) the name used for the S-Type, so I guess for the XK too

 

Jaguar recommendation for brake fluid and coolant changes are on a time elapsed basis.

Brake fluid: every 2 years
Coolant: every 5 years (or 150k miles)

Plugs: every 100k miles (XK8); every 50k miles (XKR)
Fuel filter: every 60k miles on your MY

As you've already done the transmission, change the fuel filter, fill the tank and head off towards 100k.

Graham

 

Brake Fluid (bleed at all 4 wheels)
Power Steering Fluid (get a syringe and just suck out a lot, add more, do this a few times with the car driven in between and you'll dilute the old pretty well; this is a good method if you aren't a mechanic, otherwise do a real drain and fill underneath).
Rear Diff (least necessary of the list, many people go 100k+ or until there is an issue to touch this)
Fuel Filter ($10 and pretty darn easy)
Coolant
Serpentine Belt
Air Filter

I'd inspect the suspension to see the current state, even an 11yo car that's been babied can need a part or two (especially ball joints or tie rod ends with bad boots accelerating their own destruction). I wouldn't necessarily replace a thing, but inspect.

Get a nice flashlight and those tiny mirrors on a stick (like $2 at any auto parts store) and just look around in the engine bay to make sure nothing is seeping or leaking and no rodents had fun on your wiring insulation.

You're not in a bad spot, I just like having things religiously maintained so I can count on any car, anywhere.

 

Woow...thank's for the detailed explanation...I work on some things on the car and I am not afraid to do a job if there's a detailed video (Sam's videos) or if the pictures and explanation is good...so now my questions are:

Brake fluids ... do I need to get one of those bleeders tool? also I am starting from pass rear, drvr rear, pass front and drvr front, correct? DOT 4?

Fuel filter: take off fuel pump fuse, run the engine till it stall, and use 5/16 disconnect tool?

Coolant: just a simple plug out, drain and fill?

Serpentine belt: I might have someone do this....I never change a serpentine belt before.

Suspension items: how do you check on this...what do you look for?

Yes...I am with you in maintaining the car religiously...I want to drive this car till it's 150K before getting the newer version :-)

 

Brake Fluid Change

These car have not really much fancy in regards to bleeding the brakes. Get a wrench that fits the bleeder screw at each caliper, an oil drain pan, a piece of cheap clear vinyl tubing that fits on the bleeder nipple, a friend with a leg, and maybe a beer for them to drink while there.

Basically, those bleeder kits are a convenience, and they do work. This video shows the process pretty well:


The vinyl tubing fits over the bleeder nipple so you don't get fluid everywhere. They make special brake line wrenches that have a notch cut out of the boxed end but really you don't need that here. Just use a boxed end wrench.

For street driving, the combination of price, availability, wet and dry boiling points make this a very popular brake fluid:

Valvoline/32 oz. DOT 3 and 4 brake fluid 601458 - Read 1 Reviews on Valvoline #601458

Under $10 a quart and available at pretty much every auto parts store, walmart and many other places. Buying Castrol SRF or Motul Blue, it's pricey, the street value is questionable and really not necessary unless you track the car and flush the fluid regularly. Very good stuff, but a little overkill here.

Fuel Filter Change

I generally remove the gas cap, let the car sit overnight, and remove the filter underneath with the two appropriately sized wrenches. You'll have some fuel leak out into the oil drain pan, but nbd. Looking at my parts catalog, I don't see a different fuel filter part number for later models? If that's the case (other people chime in), on my earlier cars, they don't use a fuel line disconnect, it's like this guy's video:


You could run the engine to stall to use up the fuel in line, but if the car is stone cold, I've never had the cup to a pint of fuel bother me. I definitely wouldn't say don't do it. It's not hard to pull the relay and run car til stall. I just haven't done it.

Coolant Change

On the R models it's more of a hullabaloo to change the coolant due to the intercooler manifolds, but still not rocket surgery. I used this procedure on my XKR and it's a guide by a nice forum member on here, MrTexasDan
. He notes what steps would be omitted on a naturally aspirated car:

http://api.viglink.com/api/click?for....%201280464169

I can't speak to how accurate it is for an N/A car, but for my XKR it's dead on.

Serpentine Belt Change

This is pretty easy stuff! Easier yet since the N/A cars you aren't working around the S/C belt drive components. Here's a link to a post from a forum member, cyber3d, for the belt replacement on an N/A car:

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...1/#post1279255

And a post from the same thread by Super Mod GGG with the routing diagram and instructions in printable form too:

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...51/#post609206

I'm not finding out differences for the 4.2. Any other members want to chime in? Is it you releasing tensioner via turning counter clockwise on a left hand thread bolt in the serpentine tensioner idler or is it a 3/8" or 1/2" square hole in the tensioner arm to use a breaker bar to release tension? It's not a difference really in difficulty at all but I don't want to mislead.

Suspension Bits

If you aren't used to checking play in is ball joints and tie rod ends, or gauging wear in rubber bushings, most alignment shops will do this for free. Keep in mind that they want to build the sale, so likely they'll recommend more than is really needed.

You can explain the basics, but describing how much play, it's much easier to learn this by doing in person with a person used to doing this.

 

Wooow...you're truly 80's rule!!! thank you for all the guidance..make me confidence to tackle all of this project myself...thank's fellas... I will update my success or fail story here... :-)

 

You need to drive it more often!

 

hahaha...believe me I do!! ...bought it last year from a 72 yr old at 36K ... for 13 months I got her up to 50K ...so thats 14K