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I'm at the end of my wits. Maybe someone can point me in the right direction. These are the error codes im getting;
P1224
P1642
P1797
P1000
P1643 History.. Just replaced the fuel pump, Fuel filter and cleaned all the injectors.
Also replaced the throttle body with a used one including the TP sensor. Still the same issues.
While it's hunting during idle sometimes the RPM goes to 0 and the Brake light goes on. Then a few seconds later the RPM gauge comes back on and the brake light goes off. Then repeat. I have no idea what to look for now. Would love to drive this car but cant get to run right. Tried to drive it a little and got a weird low voltage message. That only happened once.
Joe,
you can ignore the P1000 for now as that just means the emissions system checks haven't completed.
The others are:
I can only find P1797 in the MY2003 EG as a CAN error.
Have you had the centre console shift mechanism apart? The CAN routes through the gear selector display and you could have a poor connection in there. Measure across pins 6 and 14 in the OBD connector using a multimeter set to ohms. It should read around 60 ohms. A reading of 120 ohms would indicate an open circuit somewhere along the line. Losing the rev counter could be indicative of this.
Another possibility is the ECM - do you know if it has ever been repaired?
So I opened the ECM and look what i found. Looks like something has blowen up.
Anybody knows where to get it repaired? also i found some ECM'S on ebay for a 1998 xk8. Would that work and do they need to be reprogramed?
I suspect that the module repairers will say it's too badly damaged, although it looks worse than it probably is.
IMO your best bet would be an old skool TV repair man or, possibly, a radio ham - someone who has experience in recovering this type of problem.
Failing that, I'm afraid you're looking at replacement, and the 97 ECM is unique to that year.
I unsoldered the blown capacitor and it melted the circuit board. I was told its not repairable and i can see why. The response I got was "That’s the capacitor that regulates the voltage , It’s smoked to a point that it’s not repairable , Under that compactor within the pcb there are several thin wire traces that run through there once that sever damage occurs we have not been able to bring them back to life . " Found another ECM on ebay with all the same numbers for $150.00. we'll see how that works out.
Last edited by joekluger; Dec 25, 2023 at 02:10 PM.
AFAIK, MY97 in the US doesn't have chip-in-key security, hence the ECM is plug n' play.
However, unless the replacement module has had the capacitors replaced, I would strongly recommend that this repair is done before you fit it to the car.
Please don't throw the.old one away unless it is definitely not recoverable. As 'they' say, they're not making these any more and they're getting harder and harder to find.
Good luck!
p s There's not much circuit-wise going on in that corner of the PCB and it may be repairable
Last edited by michaelh; Dec 25, 2023 at 02:09 PM.
Received the used ecm today and installed it. Its running a little rough with a an idle of about 600. All the old codes are gone but now have a new code P1638.
Any thoughts.. Thanks again
And the saga continues... Cleaned a lot of connectors and got rid of all codes. Went out for a ride and ran great for about 1/2 hour. I started to hesitate when I gave it gas. It would accelerate then die then accelerate again and die again. Jerking back and forth. Engine stalled twice but made it home. Read the codes and got a new code of P1797.
BTW, did you contact clean the ECM before installing, and did you use anything like dielectric grease on the contacts ?
dielectric grease is not a good idea to use directly on metal contacts. It impedes the current flow, it’s great on rubber spark plug boots or rubber bulb Covers, where it can keep moisture out.
but otherwise , just look up the definition of “dielectric”. Any current that is passed thru a connection where dielectric grease is used is doing so in spite of the grease, not because of it. There are several conductive silver or copper based grease compounds that actually can help preserve current flow, if one thinks that is needed. But most of the time, a clean dry connection is best, just like the factory does it.
"dielectric grease is not a good idea to use directly on metal contacts"
And that is exactly why I asked that question, there are a considerable number of people who believe that dielectric actually promotes conductivity - this includes folks who work at Autozone.
So here we go again.. The story.. One of the bulbs in my shifter was out so I took the shifter apart and pulled the circuit board. One bulb was out and the other worked. None of the gear indicator leds work but that not that important to me now. I replaced both bulbs with new ones and noticed some of the solders joints were off colored. I resoldered most of the connections and installed it back. You will not believe it but all codes disappeared. Car ran great for 2 days then....... while shifting from 2nd to 3rd gear it like dies then in about 2 seconds it catches and continues to drive. That the F-ck. Anybody that can help..Thanks
Yup I see its for the shifter lights. been searching can continuity test but can't seem to find instructions. Maybe you can direct me. Thanks in advance.
1997 xk8 erratic idle
