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Bought a 1998 XK8 about 5 months ago. These forums have been a life saver for a lot of things I’ve done to it, and everything has been great so far until today.
Live in Arizona and as you can imagine the heat is hell on cars, but these beast seems to push through like no tomorrow. AC is cold and engine and power seem to remain perfect. Of course I baby her for the most part when it’s this hot.
Today she was driven a bit more in the heat than usual. Going to get gas tonight, was waiting at Costco for a few minutes and got up to the pump, shut it off and filled her up. Side note, anyone else have issues with the pumps with that rubber ring on it not letting you fill easily and always stopping?
Anyways, got back in and went to start it and she wouldn’t start. Looked down and it said “Transmission Fault” and then flashed over to “Engine Fail Safe”. Turn the key off and then on again, same thing. Finally after about a minute, maybe 5-10mins after shutting her off and getting gas, I tried again and bam, she fired right up. Drove to my next appointment just fine, no issues. Shut it off and for the hell of it I turned the key, and there it was again, “Transmission Fault” and then “Engine Fail Safe”. Tried shutting the key off and on again, nothing. Won’t turn over, or anything. Went into my appointment, came out about 5-10mins later, and it was gone again. Drove to my next appointment, little bit of stop and go traffic, no transmission issues or shifting problems or anything, shut it off, turn the key back on and it was back. Came back out a half hour later and it was completely fine again. Drove it home, only a few stop lights and about a 15mins drive, got it in the garage, shut it off and turn the key and this time it was fine. So far I’ve determined it something to do with sitting in traffic all of the sudden and it’s never had an issue before. Anytime this would happen and I put my foot on the brake I could not shift into neutral or even hear the click in the gearbox
Transmission fluid and filter was changed about 1,500 miles ago when the rear main seal and transmission mount was replaced due to a small leak. No other issues.
and secondly, do you have the car on a battery tender when it’s not in use overnight or longer. That alone will banish 90% of error messages.
….. and no, having a charging system that’s putting out 14+ volts is not a substitute for a battery tender like it would be in a “normal” car. These cars aren’t normal. They are at twice their engineered and estimated lifespan. The electrical circuits are tired and have more electrical resistance than is optimal. The battery needs to be 101% of capacity all the time. The charging system alone just won’t get you there in many of these cars.
and secondly, do you have the car on a battery tender when it’s not in use overnight or longer. That alone will banish 90% of error messages.
….. and no, having a charging system that’s putting out 14+ volts is not a substitute for a battery tender like it would be in a “normal” car. These cars aren’t normal. They are at twice their engineered and estimated lifespan. The electrical circuits are tired and have more electrical resistance than is optimal. The battery needs to be 101% of capacity all the time. The charging system alone just won’t get you there in many of these cars.
Z
It gets driven pretty much every day at least to the store or something. I have noticed when sitting in traffic or at a stop light the battery garage does drop quite a bit, especially with the AC on. When I hit the gas, it goes right back up. Of course with the AC off it seems just fine and or when driving it stays right at the 13 on the gauge.
It gets driven pretty much every day at least to the store or something. I have noticed when sitting in traffic or at a stop light the battery garage does drop quite a bit, especially with the AC on. When I hit the gas, it goes right back up. Of course with the AC off it seems just fine and or when driving it stays right at the 13 on the gauge.
you need a battery tender.
Delran battery tender + or a NOCO genius, or a CTEK. Take your pick. Or just keep having issues. Your car, your choice.
My XKR is my only car, ie it’s driven every day, in town, cross country numerous times, etc. And I had all kinds of electrical gremlins until I started using the tender. Now, no more Fail-Safe warnings with restricted performance, etc.
live and learn.
and no, there’s nothing wrong with my charging system.
Delran battery tender + or a NOCO genius, or a CTEK. Take your pick. Or just keep having issues. Your car, your choice.
My XKR is my only car, ie it’s driven every day, in town, cross country numerous times, etc. And I had all kinds of electrical gremlins until I started using the tender. Now, no more Fail-Safe warnings with restricted performance, etc.
live and learn.
and no, there’s nothing wrong with my charging system.
Z
I just don’t get why I would be just starting to have this issue and or why it would only be after sitting in traffic? Sat in traffic a few times before and it never happened?
Delran battery tender + or a NOCO genius, or a CTEK. Take your pick. Or just keep having issues. Your car, your choice.
My XKR is my only car, ie it’s driven every day, in town, cross country numerous times, etc. And I had all kinds of electrical gremlins until I started using the tender. Now, no more Fail-Safe warnings with restricted performance, etc.
live and learn.
and no, there’s nothing wrong with my charging system.
sure ! I’m now using the NOCO genius 5, and have used the Delran Battery Tender + for years. Both are good products.
Z
PS the genius 10 does have the extra charging capacity. Which would come in handy if a battery were dead or really low.
But for the “tending” feature, even the basic NOCO genius would work fine. I bought the “5” when it was heavily discounted during the last Amazon Day sale. Too tempting.
sure ! I’m now using the NOCO genius 5, and have used the Delran Battery Tender + for years. Both are good products.
Z
PS the genius 10 does have the extra charging capacity. Which would come in handy if a battery were dead or really low.
But for the “tending” feature, even the basic NOCO genius would work fine. I bought the “5” when it was heavily discounted during the last Amazon Day sale. Too tempting.
of course I missed that. Murphy’s law right. Do I just connect this to the battery and leave it on it with the direct wires assuming it recharges itself when the cars on? Or are we talking I need to take and plug it in every time? Could I just plug it in to the cigarette lighter? Trying to read up on it but not really understanding. Usually not this stupid with stuff but a little puzzled for sure.
of course I missed that. Murphy’s law right. Do I just connect this to the battery and leave it on it with the direct wires assuming it recharges itself when the cars on? Or are we talking I need to take and plug it in every time? Could I just plug it in to the cigarette lighter? Trying to read up on it but not really understanding. Usually not this stupid with stuff but a little puzzled for sure.
the battery tenders run off of wall current, 120v in the USA.
the cigarette lighter is a no go as it’s disconnected when the ignition is off.
I have the tender wiring hooked up to the battery full time, with a connector midway between the tender and the battery. I run the wires out of the trunk lid. It’s perfectly alright to shut the trunk on the wiring. The trunk seal is very soft and flexible. The wires are not pinched, ie you can still move the wiring in and out of the trunk with the lid closed, it’s that loose.
When I’m going to drive the car I just pop open the trunk, disconnect the midpoint connector and I’m off and running. Takes all of 20 seconds.
I’ll add photos shortly, which will hopefully add clarity to my meandering description.
Just because the battery is 9months old does not mean it good..If you have let it go down say to 25% the alternator will not bring it back to 100% however much you drive. The voltmeter is a fake gauge (as is the oil gauge ) and only tells you the alternator is working ,the pointer is set at 13v by the ECU to make you feel happy.
Charge the battery overnight with a real battery charger and if you still have trouble get a new one.
the battery tenders run off of wall current, 120v in the USA.
the cigarette lighter is a no go as it’s disconnected when the ignition is off.
I have the tender wiring hooked up to the battery full time, with a connector midway between the tender and the battery. I run the wires out of the trunk lid. It’s perfectly alright to shut the trunk on the wiring. The trunk seal is very soft and flexible. The wires are not pinched, ie you can still move the wiring in and out of the trunk with the lid closed, it’s that loose.
When I’m going to drive the car I just pop open the trunk, disconnect the midpoint connector and I’m off and running. Takes all of 20 seconds.
I’ll add photos shortly, which will hopefully add clarity to my meandering description.
Z
All set up. Had to come out the top like that due to the length of the cord even with the extension. Plus I figured that way if I forget to unplug it it’ll just unplug itself without causing too much damage. We’ll have to see what happens next time I’m sitting in traffic and shut it off or get gas after waiting in the massive Costco line. Fingers crossed.
1998 XK8 Transmission Fault
