2000 XK8 Stalls then wont crank warm
#1
2000 XK8 Stalls then wont crank warm
Hello,
I am new to the group. I just bought a 2000 XK8 and it stalls when warm. It will not crank over at all for about 5 minutes. Then it runs great and will stall out again. I have a feeling it is electrical, but not sure. The lights come on with trans fault, system check, low brake fluid, low coolant etc. just wont crank. When it does crank it starts right up and runs great. Any Ideas? thanks for the help!
I am new to the group. I just bought a 2000 XK8 and it stalls when warm. It will not crank over at all for about 5 minutes. Then it runs great and will stall out again. I have a feeling it is electrical, but not sure. The lights come on with trans fault, system check, low brake fluid, low coolant etc. just wont crank. When it does crank it starts right up and runs great. Any Ideas? thanks for the help!
#2
Hi and welcome aboard!
My 2000 XKR has had an issue maybe 3-4 times where it would just crank and crank, with no real effort to start. All of those time I was able to start it by either putting it in neutral, or just jiggling the Shift Knob. Evidently, there is a sensor there that is slightly misaligned at times and acts as a "Kill Button". That would be my first plan of attack, and hopefully, a really easy fix.
Next time that you are able to drive it, I would get the codes read, and post them here. Many parts stores will scan them for free. With that info, one of the real experts here will be able to weigh in with specific suggestions for you. Hopefully it is not "Cylinder Wash", which is potentially an extremely serious problem. I think that Gus has info on that issue on his site. Anyway, the codes are needed for a logical attempt to fix your problem.
Good luck, and please report back with progress or lack of it. We are trying to accumulate results so as to add to our info base.
Brian
My 2000 XKR has had an issue maybe 3-4 times where it would just crank and crank, with no real effort to start. All of those time I was able to start it by either putting it in neutral, or just jiggling the Shift Knob. Evidently, there is a sensor there that is slightly misaligned at times and acts as a "Kill Button". That would be my first plan of attack, and hopefully, a really easy fix.
Next time that you are able to drive it, I would get the codes read, and post them here. Many parts stores will scan them for free. With that info, one of the real experts here will be able to weigh in with specific suggestions for you. Hopefully it is not "Cylinder Wash", which is potentially an extremely serious problem. I think that Gus has info on that issue on his site. Anyway, the codes are needed for a logical attempt to fix your problem.
Good luck, and please report back with progress or lack of it. We are trying to accumulate results so as to add to our info base.
Brian
#3
There is a main Electrical Feed from the battery to the Engine Compartment that can get loose. It's located below the bend in the Air Tube that feeds the Throttle Body. It's covered by a rubber cap. A poor connection here can cause all kinds of problems.
#4
You say it stalls when it is worm. What is it that you are doing when it stalls? Is it idling, driving or turning? Do you get a Fail Safe or Restricted Performance or a Check Eng light? After getting the Trans, Brake & Low coolant have you pulled any OBD codes? When you finally get it to crank what did you change to make it happen?
#5
It stalled once while I was going about 50mph and the other time it stalled I was doing about 10 miles per hour in traffic. Then after it sat for about 5-10 minutes it would turn over and start right up like nothing happened. I drove home and when I shut it off, I tried starting it back up and it wouldn't turn over again. After it sat for a little while it started right up and ran great. No check engine light or restricted performance. I will check for fail safe. Thank you and I will pick up a code reader today.
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#8
If you are saying that the starter does not turn the engine when you turn the key that might be the shifter selector switch. Next time put it in “N” and see if it starts. If it is malfunctioning it may also cause the failsafe but not sure. At this point I am speculating. If the starter is turning the eng but it will not start that could be fuel, spark, TB or a shifter selector switch. All could be related to poor connections. You should get the OBD codes to see what they are trying to tell you. It sounds like you may have a few things taking place at the same time.
Last edited by Gus; 05-02-2010 at 04:31 PM.
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The car shuts down at 50mph or 10mph I would say the TB plugs TSB 303-58 and the indication could be Fail Safe or Restricted Performance.
The car not turning starter (not engaging) is another problem and that could be a shifter selector switch or an electrical problem. I mention the shifter selector switch because it seems that we are seeing several causing similar problems. One way of checking is when it will not start (engage) when in “P” then put it in “N” and try again then you will know.
The car not turning starter (not engaging) is another problem and that could be a shifter selector switch or an electrical problem. I mention the shifter selector switch because it seems that we are seeing several causing similar problems. One way of checking is when it will not start (engage) when in “P” then put it in “N” and try again then you will know.
#14
I'm getting my fair share of P-N switch experience on my car. It is odd, that every time his car shuts down, he can't start it for awhile. Surely, statistically, it would fire some of the time if it were the neutral safety switch. Then when he does, he never mentions that he has to giggle the gear selector (like I do when I want it to start for me once in awhile) Thats my logic for what its worth.
#15
I tried starting in neutral and no luck. I checked the feed from the battery in the engine compartment and it seems to be tight and free of corrosion. I had the battery checked and it is good. I am at a loss? I am going to check the plug tom. and see, I believe the previous owner has already done this, but I will check.
#16
Now that the shifter theory went out the window!! This car has a series of 20 grounding points and 8 positive cable attachments that branch out to a few others. If it were me I would take a little time and check the grounding and positive points on the car thinking the movement of the car could create a connection problem. With no OBD codes I am thinking that a loose connection problem is affecting the engine management systems causing the no start. I would start at the engine control module first. I would also caution you when messing around with battery feeds. Causing a short is not an option!
Question to any qualified person. I see that a relay is part of each of the 5 fuse boxes could the relay be acting up?
http://www.gusglikas.com/images/Auto.../jagxk2000.pdf
Question to any qualified person. I see that a relay is part of each of the 5 fuse boxes could the relay be acting up?
http://www.gusglikas.com/images/Auto.../jagxk2000.pdf
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