The starter motor has an internal relay which switches a heavy current load (think arc), the miniture relay switches very low current draw and controls the internal relay. Some starter relays perform two functions, current to motor and extend gear to engage gear on flywheel.
Listen to the action when starting engine; does the starter spin ( could be neutral/park lockout, miniture relay or internal motor relay), if it spins but engine does not turn then the gear is not engaging the flywheel.
I have seen (on older Ford products with starter relays mounted on fender) the entire contact area pitted to the point that no current flows to the starter motor. It least they were cheap and easy to change.
Good luck
Bob

 

The Starter motor does not spin. When I attempt to start it acts like the key is still in the II position.

 

Refer to figure 03.1 of electrical guide it covers the starter. To bypass all the interlocks park/neutral a jumber on the starter relay at pin 3 (12 vdc) to pin 5 white/red wire will provide battery power to the internal starter motor relay. It should turn engine, if not check for power to the starter it should always be at 12vdc. With power to starter that leaves the internal starter relay as the problem.
If it turns over the poblem is upstream of starter relay. Refer to electrical guide for location of other potential signal loss.

 

Would either of these cause it to stall as well? When it won't start it gives me low coolant, low brake fluid, Trans Fault, etc. all on the display. I will try this the next time it does it. I just finished tracing all power wires back and found nothing out of the ordinary. I'm getting a little frustrated. Thanks.

 

I am not sure what to tell you but a point of argument I was looking at the fuse/relay boxes. I found that all relay/fuse boxes are related to engine management. The two that interest me the most are the one in the trunk (ignition positive relay) and the one on the right (facing out (starter relay)) all on page 21. http://www.gusglikas.com/images/Auto.../jagxk2000.pdf Also if you look at the main power distribution you can see the feed; however, the feed may not be the problem and it could be a ground. Take a look at Fig.1.1 high power protection module?? I recall reading about one causing a problem but I am unable to pinpoint where I read this. Has anyone had a problem with a power protection module?

 

Gus,
You nailed it. It was the high power module in the trunk. It looked clean and appeared to be tight. I talked to a former jag mechanic the day after I spoke with you. He pulled the module and the spare tire at some point smacked that module and cracked the back of it. You couldn't tell by looking at it. I drove the car for three hours non stop without a stall or no start! Thanks so much for all your help Gus!

 

Thanks for the follow up DCRAIN, another good diagnosis by Gus with a happy ending...and not the oriental massage place's version.