So this weekend, I did the valve cover gaskets on my Uncle's XK8, and while it was fresh in my mind I wanted to write down a few things for posterity before I had the chance to edit the video I did of it. Basically, here are some notes, procedures and tools I think would be helpful for anyone that is going to attempt it themselves. I also am curious what they pay mechanics in the dealership (labor hours) for this job, as to do it properly, there is a ton of cleaning to be done as will be explained further down.

Tools that make the job easier for this particular task would be a 10mm short well and long well socket (1/4 inch for clearance purposes near engine bay wall) and a 1/4 inch universal joint and long extension to get a good angle on the rear bolts. In the shop manual, it explicitly states to KEEP THE BOLTS IN THE ORDER THEY CAME OUT as it would appear to maybe mess with the cam position sensor, but not sure. I took a piece of 2x4 and made a template by drilling 14 holes in the correct order to keep them properly, denoting the top of the valve cover. Also, to do this correctly, you will need a torque wrench capable of handling 9-11Nm or 97.3 Inch lbs. In addition to the tools, do invest in a nice scratch free fender cover as you will spend a ton of time leaning over both sides and this will save your paint!

To do the job correctly, you must absolutely install all new seals throughout the entire valve cover, including the VVT Solenoid seal, the spark plug aperture seals, as well as center bolts and outside bolt seals. After removing the coils on the 2000 MY XK8, on the RH side I noticed the middle two spark plug wells were filled with oil to the top of the spark plug conductor. This was definitely due to failed spark plug aperture seals. In addition, I also was wondering the amount of labor hours they paid mechanics at Jaguar to do this job as to do it properly, or I'm slow, to clean the valve cover, and each of the 14 bolts after removing the old seals, took a considerable amount of time. If you don't clean them, you will surely push grit and old oil over the seals and bolts leaving a terrible surface for the new materials to seat on. This is also the best time to inspect the plastic valve covers for cracks. I can definitely see how people in a hurry or without proper research over torque the covers past 9-11Nm for each, and especially not following the right order.

This included the mating surface area of the head. I used nitrile gloves and made sure I changed them after thoroughly cleaning the mating surfaces of the head to ensure an oil free/sweat free area. As indicated in the shop manual, a 3mm by 12mm minimum amount of RTV should be added to the areas located at the meeting of the timing cover to the head. I fitted a new VVT Solenoid seal and then pushed the cover back in place, taking great care not to smear the RTV sealant. Having the luxury of not needing to drive the car for a few days (and other work being performed) I let it sit to give the RTV sealant a chance to cure fully.

Once everything is together, you must properly torque the valve cover bolts IN THE PROPER ORDER AND TO THE PROPER SPECS of 9-11Nm for each side. I converted 9-11Nm to approx 97.3 Inch Lbs to use with my Inch LBS torque wrench and it worked splendidly. I will link my video once complete.

Hope this helps a few people along the way. Not a terrible job, just not fast due the cleanup of the pieces.

-Scott