Do you have or can you obtain dyno sheets? Seems very optimistic to me from my current experience with upper and lower pulleys. Not saying it isn't true, I'd just like to see proof. I've spoken to Mike from Eurotoys several times (he's local to me), and if the gains were that extreme, I'd think he would have sold me the tune with the pulleys since I was willing to drop the cash. Instead, he told me to spend my money on a water/meth kit to supplement the pulleys...and implied that I should skip the tune.

 

Water meth injection will help immensely. So long as you don't richen the mixture too much that is. So you may keep the IAT low and the knock sensor happy but if you're to rich you can loose power. I have a bit of experience with meth injection in my other vehicles. Ultimate performance would be tuning your combo for use with the meth however I am unsure how to wire in a safety net in the Jaguars. With my fords if my meth pump faults I automatically drop timing through my spout connector. I can program the amount of that drop in My ECU. Fans on the heat exchanger isn't enough. Extra capacity of coolant will help but realize it will take longer also to bring temps down once heat soaked. That's where a larger heat exchanger comes into play. Im personally just going to copy what others have experienced with these aspects as I have way to many projects/cars to get to deep into this. Also the idea of redoing things over and over again is lost to me nowadays :O)

 

I haven't checked but I was told the SC'd jaguars tend to run rich which could be an issue when adding meth. Is that true?

 

They tend to run pretty rich at WOT. I have seen some dyno plots with 11:1 or even into the high 10.x:1 ratios.

Granted this is a 4.2L
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...-my-xjr-96325/


When I got the baseline dyno done my 03 (also 4.2L) before the upgrades was in right around 12:1 at redline. If I believe the data from the O2 sensors on the car, they show a little richer than than the dyno numbers with the external sensor. Who knows which one is right.

 

You indeed shouldn't have evans in your ic circuit, you really must separate it. For one the coolant has a higher viscosity when not at temp, so the small ic pump will struggle, and secondly it transfers less well heat then water. I still use the oat coolant there to protect against freezing and corrosion.

 

Here's a AFR plot with the stock tune on 4.2L S/C.



I have since leaned it out a little, but I don't have the sheet for that with me, same curve just 0.5 leaner across the curve.

 

Here's another option on ebay. It's bigger (12"), cheaper ($31) and ships from the US.

UNIVERSAL 12'' ELECTRIC RADIATOR/INTERCOOLER COOLING FAN 1550CFM 7AMPS 12V

 

no sir, I owned a 2.3 liter turbo mustang at the time, the xkr was leaned out and the power change was dramatic ! ! ! !No one likes to tune our years because there are not many of our cars=no money.

I am very happy with the E3 plugs, in fact I installed some on my jag.They have served great so far, give the ecm a few weeks to adjust to them.

The power in the xkr is nice,I am happy.Once you start to creep too high, you will have no traction=waste of time and money.

 

1. E3 PLUGS UPGRADE $59 Jegs

2. Spectre Air Filter $45 Autozone

3. Sports Mode $ 0

4. Exhaust-Cut out Over Axle Pipes,Dumped at Center Box For Now $130

(Two straps welded to dumps, then bolted to the existing hex keyed drive shaft shield bolts btw).

This is without any pulleys, so you can imagine what the lower pulley will do, with the fans and cleaning of the inter cooler or even upgrade.
MY 2000 XKR TODAY


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TZLj...ature=youtu.be

 

Exactly. But Im curious how people have separated the IC circuit on the jags. As especially how the water runs in and out of the IC cores

 

Simple, I didn't change anything to the flow, just used the amazing E3 sparkplug to cut the intersection with the normal coolant circuit and plugged the holes ;-). The air pipe from the ic radiator is just in an bottle (hidden next to the brake booster), no concourse prize winner material, but cheap and effective.

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TZLj...ature=youtu.be

 

the company that sells the pulleys recommended a larger intercooler or i could have piston melt. Ive read here that the intercooler is fine i just need to add fans to adequately cool it also 170 degree thermostat

 

What company?

 

Lawson at powerhouse said I need larger intercooler but other posts say all i need are additional fans?

Thanks in advance

 

Fans will cool down better than any unit in the world lol.

 

AVOS,

How long have you been running Evans and how do you like it? Thinking about it for my 03 XKR

 

The heat capacity of propylene glycol (evans) is a lot lower than water, so as a heat transport medium, plain old water will work better.

 

The units below have fallen recently to $10:

AutoSpeed - $25 Temperature Controller and Display!

on ebay, search for: digital thermometer 12v

the 12v is important because they come in 12v/120v/220v

the relay is rated at 20 amps and the on/off set points
are completely programmable.



As for coolant thermostats, the temperature rating is the temperature
at which the thermostat starts to open. Almost every thermostat
is designed to be fully open 10*C (22*F) above that.

I am currently playing with a 70*C(160*F) thermostat shipped in error.
I had ordered the 80*C(176*F) thermostat.

With the above digital thermometer, it opened at 70.2*C which is
close enough This particular unit pauses until 76*C where it
then opens rapidly until the expected fully open at 80*C.

The reason that a cooler thermostat still tends to regulate Jaguar V8's at
195*F is that the fans are programmed to turn on at 195*F. In traffic,
this means that even though a cooler thermostat is fully open and
circulating coolant to the radiator, there is not enough airflow to
cool until the fans kick in.

On the highway, there is sufficient flow without resorting to the fan
and you will likely see temperatures dip below 195*F on the highway.

Getting into closed loop is not a problem. The ECM goes into closed
loop somewhere below 140*F. At about the second mark on the
temperature gauge ... according to IDS logging. Forgot the exact
temperature.

 

Yes, but it doesn't boil over or over pressurize the system and it is inert in that it does attack the metals (AKA rust & corrosion) in the cooling system. Besides that, I'm just curious to know how Avos likes it with his setup.. I also understand that he doesn't run it in the SC.