Hey guys Im getting rid of my XK8 and getting a 2000 XKR I want to increase the horsepower to around 420 HP is there a way to increase the boost and increase the revs without a lot of major modifications??

 

The rpm is not easy to increase but upper and/or lower pulleys are reasonably cost effective upgrades for power.

There are other options, on an almost exponential cost scale but the pulleys should get you to what you are looking for.

 

How much do the upper and/or lower pulleys increase it by (370hp stock)? I'd appreciate just getting to 400hp, like our 4.2 brethren in here.

 

The rev limit on the XKR is 6150 my stock XK* was 6600 RPM cant I change the rev limiter? and where can I get the pulleys?

Bill

 

Update Its a 2002 XKR not a 2000

Bill

 

Can't say exactly since I don't have one, but I'm sure someone has done a before and after dyno or 1/4 mile run.


It's possible, but you would need to find someone that can remap the ECU. Relatively rare to find someone and usually expensive to do.

The pulleys can be had from several sources: Mina Gallery and Eurotoys among them.

 

1.93+ octane gas. ALWAYS REQUIRED or knock sensors WILL RETARD TIMING.

2. Lower pulley upgrade/
have a indy remove it that services jaguar(same price or less as the special tools you will need and machine shop work to fit it on the crank pulley)
$550.00 total


3.Instal a fan on your intercooler $90.00 total

4.Instal a open air filter on your stock maf unit AND USE THE BOX AND ZIP TIE TO MAKE A TEMPORARY HEAT SHIELD $40.00 Spectre Autozone. Be aware, rain and car washes will get sucked in with the bonnet having a opening there,if that's a concern you will be doing some metal cutting to have the filter safe in the fender well etc. I don't drive in the rain, nor park.
5.Instal E3 spark plugs E3.64 is the part number for our cars. You need 8 of them. $55 Jegs on ebay

The combo above will add exactly 63 HP on a 4.0 or 4.2 without a tune whatsoever from 2,480rpm -4,151rpm.Then, the little 4.0 runs out of steam at the top,but our low ratio gears will keep you moving fast in the high end. As I have seen 2 dynoed in my face with the mods, both were just 4.0 engines.

 

If the OP is operating the vehicle in California, any modifications to the inlet manifold or air cleaner must carry a CARB Certification designation or the vehicle will fail to pass a smog test.

 

yes sir, that's why I would keep the stock air box assembly at home for those days. Its only held in by a few nuts/bolts.

 

any details on how to do this?

 

I'd like to know this as well; specifically what type of triggering mechanisms can be used to turn the fan on/off.

 

This is a good thread on intake mods: https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/j...s-50-hp-95208/

 

Lol,

1.Measure space on your inter cooler/not needed,I did the work (already done by me lol)

2.Buy a universal inter cooler fan off ebay(I chose 7") you can go bigger buts it more drain electrically, and not needed, they instal on the inter cooler with a plastic rod that slide through the inter cooler fins, and you get tabs that the rod goes into,which locks on them. Then trim excess rod left.
Universal 7" Electric Radiator Intercooler 12V Slim Cooling Fan Fitting Kit | eBay

3. Simply wire the little fan or fans to your main cooling fan at the radiator, as it loves to come on after and during boost and hot traffic lights
or
There are kits online you can buy, that uses a hobbs switch that detects boost and opens a circuit,I would use it for a relay(remote wire) and not run current through it to power than fan directly lol.

or a relay and have it running as long as the car is running, -that's my setup.

 

I keep forgetting to mention, the inter cooler is part of the cooling system so I suggest a 170* stat as well.


2.Engine Hot to soften grime/ Before anything, take a garden hose and flush the fins of the inter cooler clean of all dirt and bugs,take your time.
A trail of black goo will be all over the ground.

3. Engine COLD/REMOVE the drain valve using two fingers COMPLETELY(plastic lowest corner driver side front).

4.Engine COLD/ Remove your reservoir cap, using the hose where the cap was power flush the inter cooler,until the water and coolant is flowing out the drain hole clean and at a good rate.

5.Instal the drain valve and top off coolant as usual. I add one water wetter and 50/50 coolant.

6. Drive and top off as needed -engine cold when topping off. Do this before adding the fan to increase cooling abilities.

Dirty inter cooler fins can increase the coolant temps dramatically. So will a dirty radiator and condenser fins degrade performance, as air can no longer go though the fins to cool. So their purpose is no longer working.

 

Also don't waste your money on a $900+ inter cooler/radiator.

Gains are minimum with our cars.

Your large stock unit with a fan or fans will outperform those expensive aftermarket units. And gains are minimum in our cars.

 

What should the operating temp be after installing a 170* stat? I put one in a few weeks ago along with upper 2.5 and lower pulleys (Eurotoys). My coolant temps hover between 199-206, occasionally spiking to 210* (and occasionally slightly below 200). My intake temps, according to Torque, seem high to me as well 100-120*. The weather here has been rather mild lately; 70-80 degrees.

 

Can the later model 4.2 xkr balancer pulley be used on the 4.0? Its larger correct? Just curious as Im pulling mine apart soon and have my spare engine on the stand

 

As I understand it, yes you can, but you have to swap the front cover too. I have a stock 4.2 pulley if you need one. Send me a PM.

 

What benefits do these plugs provide over stock?

 

My coolant temps are similar with the standard 195 thermostat and it doesn't much matter what the ambient temperature is.

As for your intake temp, is that 100-120 while moving or sitting still? I've noticed that the temp will rise pretty high when not moving but once you get moving again it will cool down to ~ ambient temperature pretty quickly.

One other question would be: have you made any changes to the air filter box such that it might be taking in air from the engine compartment rather than from the fender.