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2000 XKR OBD II Port Bad Won't Read?

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  #1  
Old 01-10-2012, 02:07 PM
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Default 2000 XKR OBD II Port Bad Won't Read?

I have a 2000 Jaguar XKR Convertible that I can't read the OBD 2 port on. I'm convinced it's the vehicle and not the reader sometimes if I'm lucky it will read it then it just stops again it has gradually gotten worse I could try it 100 times and it would not work. I have a standard OBD II reader that use to read it fine and will still read my other Jaguar. I have had two other people try to read it and they cant get it to read either.

Has anybody else experienced this? Maybe somebody can point me to the right direction...

(Things I have tried)
1. I pulled the port out from the metal attachment that holds it in place to get a better look at it and I don't see any obvious broken connections or pulled out wires.

2. I had my battery fully charged/tested.

3. I cleaned the contacts maybe I should try this again?

4. Replaced Fuse No 10 5amp Diagnostic connector (ignition) and Fuse No 13 5amp Diagnostic connector (battery) although they did not appear to be blown.

5. Checked every fuse in all 5 fuse boxes.

6. Unplugged and reseated the ECM/ECU.

Another issue I've been having recently it happens more when it's cold out is when I use the turn signal all my dashboard lights on the radio and everywhere go out for a few seconds then come back on. Maybe this is related?
 

Last edited by seawind; 01-11-2012 at 12:31 AM.
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Old 01-10-2012, 04:14 PM
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Check that there is B+ on pin 16 of the connector. It should be powered anytime the ignition is on. I tried to look up the fuse location without success. The OBDII power on a lot of US cars is wired to the cigar lighter, now power outlet, fuse but I couldn't find that either.
 
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Old 01-10-2012, 05:35 PM
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test point,

Thanks for your help I should of clarified the obd II reader has power when plugged in! It just wont read it says it cannot connect yet I just tried the reader on a 2003 XKR and it connected first time no problem.

I also just got done going through every fuse in all 5 fuse boxes a couple of minutes ago they are all good none are blown.


Thanks
Ryan
 
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Old 01-10-2012, 05:59 PM
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Well, the connector has 4 data leads from the ECM to the data port plus battery and ground. Might try reseating the ECM but that's all I can think of.
 
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Old 01-10-2012, 06:06 PM
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After checking all of the fuses I looked at the manual and although they looked good I replaced these two fuses Diagnostic connector (battery) and Diagnostic connector (ignition) still receiving the same problem though.

Where is the ECM located? (Nevermind I found it, if it's in the engine compartment on the passenger side underneath the plastic cover)
 

Last edited by seawind; 01-10-2012 at 06:14 PM. Reason: Found ECM
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Old 01-10-2012, 06:27 PM
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Reseated the ECM but nothing... still the same problem. Is the next thing to try replacing the ECM or is there a way to check all the pins on the connector to see if one of the lines running from the ECM to the port is bad?
 
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Old 01-10-2012, 06:54 PM
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Pin 15 on the OBDII connector is a wake-up signal only used in early vintage OBDII interfaces that Jaguar used through 2002. This can cause compatibility problems with some readers.

The same wake-up information is also carried on pin 7, the main data signal. Try to connect pin 15 to pin 7 either on your reader or on the car.

I have attached the connector pin numbering drawing.
 
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Old 01-10-2012, 07:58 PM
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What would you recommend to connect them? I had a paperclip laying in front of me so... Since I already took the connector out of the metal piece it sits in it was pretty easy just to stick the paperclip in the backend of the connector connecting 15 and 7. Unfortunately it's still not reading when I plug the reader in same problem!

This is the reader I have Amazon.com: Actron CP9135 AutoScanner Diagnostic Code Scanner with On Screen Definitions for OBDII Vehicles: Automotive.
 

Last edited by seawind; 01-10-2012 at 08:06 PM.
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Old 01-10-2012, 08:49 PM
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Originally Posted by seawind
What would you recommend to connect them? I had a paperclip laying in front of me so... Since I already took the connector out of the metal piece it sits in it was pretty easy just to stick the paperclip in the backend of the connector connecting 15 and 7. Unfortunately it's still not reading when I plug the reader in same problem!

This is the reader I have Amazon.com: Actron CP9135 AutoScanner Diagnostic Code Scanner with On Screen Definitions for OBDII Vehicles: Automotive.

A paperclip should be fine as long as it is contacting the correct terminals.

If this doesn't work I would suggest trying a free read with another unit at Autozone or Advance auto before you implicate the ECU. Even though your OBDII unit works in other cars, there is an outside chance that it has a marginal signal level.
 
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Old 01-10-2012, 08:50 PM
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Have you tested your OBD II reader on another car to verify it is working?
 
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Old 01-11-2012, 11:40 AM
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WhiteXKR: Going by the diagram you attached it is contacting the correct terminals. To be 100% sure I figured out a way to rig the paperclip in the OBD II reader so I can clearly see it contacting and am still receiving the same problem. I took it to Autozone this morning and there reader had the same problem it powers on but will not connect. I have now taken it to my Independent Jaguar Mechanic, Autozone, and tried my reader nobody can read it.

Gus: I have tested the same OBD II reader on both a 2003 Jaguar XK8 and XKR it works great on both.


Any ideas?....
 

Last edited by seawind; 01-11-2012 at 11:54 AM.
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Old 01-11-2012, 12:56 PM
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" I have now taken it to my Independent Jaguar Mechanic, Autozone, and tried my reader nobody can read it."

Did any of them give you their Idea of a Solution?


 
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Old 01-11-2012, 01:43 PM
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Count_Damonee: Independent Mechanic and Autozone's first guess was the wiring. I don't know to much about wiring but I guess I'm going to try tracing the wiring to see if any of it is bad.

Unless somebody knows this is a ECU going bad and I should just replace it?
 
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Old 01-11-2012, 01:47 PM
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Originally Posted by seawind
Count_Damonee: Independent Mechanic and Autozone's first guess was the wiring. I don't know to much about wiring but I guess I'm going to try tracing the wiring to see if any of it is bad.

Unless somebody knows this is a ECU going bad and I should just replace it?

It is quite rare to encounter a bad ECU, but possible. There have been reports of some early ones with some bad electrolytic capacitors which where obvious on inspection of the circuit board because they were leaking fluid electrolyte. I would think you would likely have other problems though if this were the case.
 

Last edited by WhiteXKR; 01-11-2012 at 01:50 PM.
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Old 01-11-2012, 01:51 PM
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Originally Posted by WhiteXKR
It is quite rare to encounter a bad ECU.
Do you know anything else I could try?

I did notice when taking the cover off the ECU one of the bolts that holds the cover in place was missing. So maybe it was replaced before?
 
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Old 01-11-2012, 02:20 PM
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This is a communications network, so it will be difficult to diagnose without the proper equipment.

The instrument cluster acts as a 'hub' of sorts. It might be worth removing the kick panel below the steering wheel, dropping the steering wheel to its lowest and outermost position, then removing the 2 screws for the instrument cluster wood panel. Remove the cluster panel and inspect and reseat the two instrument panel connectiors (the black one is the primary one of interest).
 
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Old 01-11-2012, 03:31 PM
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Originally Posted by WhiteXKR
This is a communications network, so it will be difficult to diagnose without the proper equipment.

The instrument cluster acts as a 'hub' of sorts. It might be worth removing the kick panel below the steering wheel, dropping the steering wheel to its lowest and outermost position, then removing the 2 screws for the instrument cluster wood panel. Remove the cluster panel and inspect and reseat the two instrument panel connectiors (the black one is the primary one of interest).
I have the bottom of the kick panel off and the steering wheel at its lowest outermost position. Does the top have to come off as well? I don't see the 2 screws holding the instrument cluster wood panel on yet...

If the top of the kick panel has to come off is there any screws or anything holding it in as I pulled on it slightly but it seems pretty snug? I attached a pic..
 
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Last edited by seawind; 01-11-2012 at 03:35 PM.
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Old 01-11-2012, 03:42 PM
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Originally Posted by seawind
I have the bottom of the kick panel off and the steering wheel at its lowest outermost position. Does the top have to come off as well? I don't see the 2 screws holding the instrument cluster wood panel on yet...

If the top of the kick panel has to come off is there any screws or anything holding it in as I pulled on it slightly but it seems pretty snug? I attached a pic..

OOPs..you have the wrong panel. You removed the lower steering wheel cover. You can put that back.

It is the panel to the left, with the leather covering, the one with the sunglass holder. The two screws are at the very bottom above the pedals. Remove those and pull the panel straight out towards you.
 
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Old 01-11-2012, 04:07 PM
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Originally Posted by WhiteXKR
OOPs..you have the wrong panel. You removed the lower steering wheel cover. You can put that back.

It is the panel to the left, with the leather covering, the one with the sunglass holder. The two screws are at the very bottom above the pedals. Remove those and pull the panel straight out towards you.
Haha thanks I realized my mistake right after I posted that last message. Anyway...

I took out the kick panel and the instrument bezel disconnected the black and yellow connectors inspected both of them nothing obvious in disrepair reseated them hooked the battery back up tried the scanner and... nothing still powers on fine but won't read it.

Well it was worth a shot .
 
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Old 01-11-2012, 04:22 PM
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I think the turn signal problem is tied to this obdII issue. I looked in the JTIS electrical guide and there are about 20 ground points. Have you tried jiggling the turnsignal with your reader turned on? I'd look for a loose or corroded ground.
 


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