You should be testing with a multimeter from the harness connector at the module - make sure you have the values you expect for each sensor/shock absorber - it's listed in the workshop manual.

The shocks should all show the same resistance value - try measuring the front shocks then disconnect them at the shock absorber and check it goes open circuit - this will prove you have the right wires.

To directly connect the shocks you need a circuit that is switched with the ignition key. Just for testing you can connect direct to the battery but you must put a fuse in the circuit (20A should do). Make absolutely sure you have the correct wires to the shock and nothing else - you don't want to risk damaging a different circuit. Remember this is only worth trying as an alternative to ditching the system entirely.

 

Thanks dibbit I appreciate the information. I will let you know what I find and keep you posted. Hopefully something simple and I can keep the system functional.


Rob

 

Well, after measuring resistance, I have an open circuit at the right rear. This is my first time using an electrical diagram but if I am reading it correctly, the next step would be checking the connectors at the rear hub, somewhere below the fuel tank, and at the top of the damper?


I did find a thread started by another member who had a similar issue and he essentially closed the circuit from the module connector one end using a relay. The result was that three of the four shocks were active, one remained in stiff mode, and the fault disappeared. Sounds like a good option in the interim if it looks like I need to drop a shock (could take awhile due to the complexity).




Rob

 

Is it the circuit that goes to the shock absorber? What resistance values did you get from the other three?

To test this further, ideally you want to get to the connector on the shock absorber, disconnect the plug and check continuity from the plug back to the connector at the module. At the same time you can check resistance of the absorber itself to confirm if the fault is in the harness or the shock absorber.

You should also check the wiring diagram and see if there are intermediate connectors in the harness between the module and the shock absorber - if these are easy to get to you can do a continuity check there.

To fool the system you would need to add a suitable value resistor (ohms and wattage) - when you say someone did this with a relay, do you mean he wired the coil of the relay in place of the shock absorber? I'm not sure I would want three soft shocks and one hard one though to be honest.

 

I checked resistance from the module through each shock circuit ; I'm getting 6 ohms through each circuit except the right rear where I'm getting nothing. There is a connector in the right corner of the trunk which is good. According to the guide there is another connector somewhere behind the rear hub which I have not yet checked. I assumed after that it would be checking the connection to the shock itself which I under stand is only accessible with the shock removed, which I understand is a chore.

Yes, he got a brown relay (similar to the other ones in the car) and spliced it into his shock circuit with no resistance. Ideally I wouldn't want 3 soft shocks and one hard one, but I think he did it as an interim solution until the shock could be pulled.

I'm learning a lot here ; will keep you posted.


Rob

 

"There is a connector in the right corner of the trunk which is good. "

So you unplugged this trunk connector and checked for continuity back to the connector on the module and it was ok?

You also checked the other side of the trunk connector to the shock and it was open circuit?

If that is the case you have identified either the shock itself, or the last section of wiring from the trunk connector to be the fault. I think you now have to drop the shock to get to it's connector. I think there is a way of doing this by bending the plate under the diff to get enough room to drop it - once you have access you can solve the puzzle.

 

Yes to both of the questions. And yes just this morning I found the posts on bending the diff plate and therefore it appears that dropping the shock is not as daunting as I had expected.

Will keep you posted.


Rob

 

Well I pulled the right rear shock and the problem was immediately evident. Apparently the wires going to the shock had twisted to the point where they snapped at the connector. Fortunately the pigtail is still available (part #LJD3075AB) and is on the way. By the way, the shock removal process using the scissor jack method was very easy.

Thank you guys for all the assistance with this.


Rob

 

Great result - thanks for letting us know the outcome.

I wonder how the wire got twisted in the first place? How can it rotate?

 

I’m not sure but something similar happened to another forum member.....said it appeared his wires were twisted.