XK8 / XKR ( X100 ) 1996 - 2006

2003 T-stat replacement, what will I need?

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Old Aug 4, 2014 | 02:16 PM
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Default 2003 T-stat replacement, what will I need?

I am going to put back on a replacement plastic t-stat housing on my 03 XK8.
I see them out there with the t-stat and sensor already in the housing and a o-ring. Are there gaskets that I still need?
 
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Old Aug 5, 2014 | 06:50 AM
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Originally Posted by brgjag
I am going to put back on a replacement plastic t-stat housing on my 03 XK8.
I see them out there with the t-stat and sensor already in the housing and a o-ring. Are there gaskets that I still need?
If you're replacing just the "cap" of the housing (the complete housing has several components) there is only that one seal. It looks like an o-ring from a distance, but has a more complex cross-section.
 
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Old Aug 5, 2014 | 09:08 AM
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I am doing the whole unit.
 
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Old Aug 5, 2014 | 11:24 AM
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anyone? surely there are gaskets I need??? I see these on ebay but some have this or that while others don't.
 
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Old Aug 5, 2014 | 03:14 PM
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See if this helps

Link. http://www.jagrepair.com/ThermostatHousing4XK8.htm
 
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Old Aug 5, 2014 | 03:27 PM
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that is for the 4.0, diff I thought?
 
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Old Aug 6, 2014 | 05:59 PM
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Does anyone here know what the 03 T-stat housing needs to do a complete install?
Where is all the people at on this site?? When I owned my 97 years back you got lots of help, not so much now it seems, not trying to be rude, just saying.
 
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Old Aug 6, 2014 | 06:40 PM
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With profound apologies for my tardy response.

The Parts Catalogue shows all the seals:




The relevant section from JTIS:

JTIS - XK8 2003 Thermostat.pdf

Graham
 
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Last edited by GGG; Aug 6, 2014 at 06:45 PM.
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Old Aug 6, 2014 | 07:26 PM
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I found that diagram on ebay that was in a sale of a unit, ha ha ha, so I bought it. Got a resivor cap also, deciding if I should go and do the rad hoses and that hose that runs from housing under the intake to the TB, which is what house and can I just shove it under the intake to get it off and back on?
 
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Old Aug 6, 2014 | 10:18 PM
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Next time I will look at the year car. Sorry!
 
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Old Aug 7, 2014 | 02:15 PM
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Well I have ordered new rad hoses, reservoir cap, and the complete tstat housing.
Is there anything I need to do as far as bleeding the air out of the system when I am done?
 
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Old Aug 7, 2014 | 02:52 PM
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hell since they are a weak spot I went and bought the expansion tank also.
 
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Old Aug 7, 2014 | 09:16 PM
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Originally Posted by brgjag
Well I have ordered new rad hoses, reservoir cap, and the complete tstat housing.
Is there anything I need to do as far as bleeding the air out of the system when I am done?
The expansion tank sits higher than the rest of the system so it is in effect self-bleeding.

However if you want to hurry it along, you can squeeze the top radiator hose to force the bubbles out. Make sure the cap is off the expansion tank of course.
 
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Old Aug 9, 2014 | 08:40 PM
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Well I got in the Tstat housing and the Expansion tank today. Waiting for the radiator hoses and off I go to replace the old stuff.
I am surprised no one is able to tell me what that hose is that runs from the housing back to the TB it appears. How easy is it to replace that house?
 
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Old Aug 11, 2014 | 08:40 PM
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Well everything is in. No leaks that I can see or smell. My old (orig) expansion sand appeared to be letting off some fluid or the like as the seal all the way around had built up fluid residue. The level gauge plug into the bottom was loose also. The T stat housing was seemed to have the same residue where things sealed. All seems tight now. I also replaced the upper and lower rad hoses. Glad I did, the hoses were soft as could be compared to the new ones. The upper was not collapsing like the old one was also, no BULGE on the top hose at the T stat housing as some here say is normal.
This was an easy job, the lower rad hose was hard to get on at the rad, took a bit to get on.
For the t stat housing I bought a small set of ratchet wrenched that swiveled up and down, made it easy to remove the 4 bold on that thing that attaches to the top of the motor. The back pass side bolt was hard to get out, I had to take off that metal plate that is attached to the front of the plenum, that made just enough clearance to get that bolt out.
At this point I just need to work on the bleeding more. I have good heat now, but want to make sure it is free of air.
Any tricks of the trade to get them out. I sat front end on a small incline and take cap off a few times and did it that way.
 
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