Not sure what you mean by that statement since no one else has offered solutions. Just Fix them does not help anything

Regarding PDFs, well that is your prerogative to open of not

 

I feel your pain! I have been battling this same exact issue for months now. Posted the issue on a thread here like you and received many great responses and suggestions like you. Tried all the suggestions as you have.

It started with replacing the fuel pump. All was great for a week or so then it was back to intermittent starting. Took her to a car show and she ran perfectly. Next day she would not start. Engine would turn over and over — just like you describe. No pressure at the strader valve. Tried starter fluid and she cranks right up for a few seconds. We decided the new pump was faulty and had her towed to repair shop 60 miles away. Shop unloaded her and of course she immediately started! She had
has been there for six weeks now — of course starting every morning and afternoon since she got there.

Shop is stumped — can’t fix something that is not broken! Obviously not a bad fuel pump. Frustration is the one way tow is $300 charge. Drive her home it’s another $300 to tow her back if the non starting returns! It’s crap shoot time!

Then to add insult to injury, a few days ago someone backed into the right front corner. Shop is now searching for replacement headlight! 😡😡😡

 

Pantera928, sorry for JagV8's terse reply.

I think he meant that these might not be one problem but might be a few individual problems, and if you look up some of the individual codes in the list on these forums you'll find ways that people have fixed them when they came up in the past.

 

I can totally relate. If I ever solve this, I will share what I find.

 

thank you for that thought. I have been going through code by code and have yet to resolve much. Still trying though. Not really concerned about door modules and seat modules. Just want this car to start and run with some degree of reliability.
cheers!🥂

 

From what I read you sometimes get fuel pressure (starts) and sometimes no pressure .
Why dont you put new wires to the pump and up out to the pump controller and incorporate a bulb/LED to tell you that the wires have power. Sounds like intermittent power to the pump so you got to replace and trace back all the way from the pump till you find it. or run new wire from pump controller to fuse box to bypass the original. Dont forget an earth fault can disconnect as well as a live fault.
Have you read this thread which seems to relate directly to your problem.
What EXACTLY does the 2003 Jaguar XK8 X100 Fuel Pump Control Module do? - Jaguar Forums - Jaguar Enthusiasts Forum

 

Okay, I got a JLR Mongoose and using the JLR SDDs, they showed the following regarding my codes
BPM code U1041,U2012,B1595 Not valid for my car model
PDM codes B2323, B2327, U1041 Not valid for my car model
PSM code U1135 Not valid for my car model
DDM codes B1402, B2182, B1234 Not valid for my car
DSM codes B1953, B1965, U1135 Not Valid for my car model
SLM codes U1135, U1041, B24BD, Not valid for my car model
If these are not valid, why didn't Jaguar eliminate them from the diagnostics?

For the ECM, I can find nothing for codes B0300, B1314, B1316. Any ideas?

So the only valid codes a "appear" to have are a P1647 on the ECM and a P0735 on the TCM

 

Neither of those errors would shut off engine nor prevent starting.

I know it is getting cold and car repairs are more unpleasant and infrequent, but I'd chose a weapon and go hunting for signals. A voltmeter and test light or makeshift LED might be OK for steady hot or grounded power, but pulsed signals generating fractions of battery voltage and spikes measured in milliseconds and microseconds may not be revealed decently. I sacrificed an earbuds/mike headset, two resistors and couple of hours to fabricate a small harness for a cell phone that visualizes high speed electronics. The amazing software was even cheaper- free.

Pulse Width Modulated signal for Variable Valve Timing solenoid at idle

I seem to recall this was the single spike to a coil from the ECM commanding that coil module to fire. The small blips were noise generated by the ECM ordering the other 7 coils to do their thing. This is not measured in split seconds or even milliseconds, but microseconds, millionths of a second. At 650 rpm, this occurs a little over 5 times per second.

 

Good stuff. Thanks.
those codes don’t worry me. I know what they are.
I have a scope and I can monitor most things.
the weather has sucked and so I am not as ambitious.
on another note, the car has not refused to start since I replaced the battery even though my old battery tested good.

 

Brother. I'm not going to do the research but would like to help. Look up ALL of these codes and eliminate/disregard the ones that would NEVER cause the car not to start. Then, post the descriptions of the codes that might or could.

Again, as I have said, I had a situation where I was having no crank no fuel issues - and more - and these issues produced NO codes and little could be done taking measurements. It was hands on digging around and visually inspecting and even bypassing key components until the right ones were stumbled upon.

Fine example:

Spot of rust and bad connection in the ignition switch... NO START no CRANK no CODES no EXPLANATION.

Similar with the XJS. Died going down the road. I dug in on the road and got going.


This past weekend, under 30years of tape, bad fixes and solder, found this and replaced the entire run of coaxial cable which reports engine speed to XJS ECU... Found that under that tape ONE (literally ONE) copper strand was coming into contact with the coax signal wire, grounding it, killing the signal and killing the car flat. No codes (no computer on the XJS). Hunting, chasing, digging... NO SHOP would do this for me and not charge me a million bucks. Gotta dig.



Don't get me started on the washing machine.


My point is, readings and measurements, DTC reports and fault codes will get you so far. Maybe looking in the right direction, but the rest is digging, help from folks here, being a bit methodical, getting to KNOW the car, giving accurate reports on what's been done and what the car is (or isn't) doing and going one step at a time.

Dude,,, posting that list of codes above like that is a BRAIN breaker for people trying to help. Be clear and concise... There is a such things as too much and unnecessary information. I personally don't want to know ANYTHING about passenger mirror codes or seat heaters. I need only the relevant information for the issue at hand.

Jus say'n.

 

Thank you for responding.
I am aware that the codes that are valid are not show stoppers.
FYI, I posted the list of invalid codes for 2 reasons. 1) to vent my frustrations at Jaguar for not eliminating them and 2) to show others that they may have invalid codes as well that need to be ignored.
With most code readers, you will not be able to discern which are valid and which are not. Only that they are there. With the JLR SDD, you can see explanations that tell you what needs to be disregarded.. An invaluable tool!

 

Odd.
I don't want to pull this too far OT, but all of the above codes, with the exception of B24BD, are shown in the 2003 DTC list. Accept that codes relating to seats, mirrors and doors aren't relevant to an intermittent no-start, but your car has all of these things, so it seems strange that the Mongoose thinks they're not valid. Also, some of them *may* be related to the issue.

Could these be p-codes? If so, they all relate to misfire as reported.

 

Well, the JLR SDD says they are not valid. The mongoose is just a hardware interface.

 

Indeed, I understand that. I probably should have been more generic.

 

I read where BCP37 had replaced multiple fuel pumps, a new shop found a cracked contact leg on the relay for FP...it was intermitant until it wasn't...(wiggle and it worked)
so
Might want to look there
WJ

 

Well, I replaced the battery back in November even though it tested good. I had no more nonstart instances until this week. Sat in a parking lot for about 10 minutes before it did anything more than spin the motor on the starter.
So, we still have no answer.

 

We do have an answer ..Ignition or fuel.. Press the schrader valve and see if you get a squirt..If no its the fuel pump if yes its the ignition

 

Completely feel your pain as I posted earlier in this string about having the same issue since August after the fuel pump was replaced. Just got my car back this past Friday after months in the shop trying to find problem. After months of wait and see — cranking daily — she finally did not last week and the search began in earnest. It was quickly diagnosed as it turned out to be a loose pin in the connector between fuel pump and wiring harness! So simple but yet so frustrating!

Oh but she can be temperamental. I lowered the top yesterday, there was an extended pause before opening fully. A few minutes later not the famed green shower but a couple of green drips!!! Hopefully just a flushing of the hydraulics are in order as the lines in the windshield were changed a few years ago by previous owner and I replaced the other lines and rams last year! Oh these jags can be frustrating!

 

this ^^^^^

whenever someone in the street asks about my
XKR, “….is it hard to maintain” ?

I always tell them, “…no more so than an aging actress who hasn’t made a movie in years. But still thinks she’s “all that”. Think Norma Desmond in the film “Sunset Blvd”.

Z

 

you’re using sdd on a car that never worked properly with in the first place, and you have a chinese mangoose.

get better tools