Hello All.

After quite a looooong break I am jumping back into trying to solve some problems with this flooded 04 XKR.

I don't have much to do, but at the same time, I do. I was talking with a mechanic in the neighborhood the other day and he suggested I completely bypass and disable the Inertia Switch eliminate it as a possibility for problem... The idea is that if the switch had become a little bucket of water for weeks and months after the soaking that the innerdz of the switch might be sending bad if any signal at all to some systems. That's what this post is about. See schematics.

Today, car will start and drive but not with the key. I cycle the key to the run position and trigger the starter with,,, a remote trigger - fires right up like "normal". The fuel pump is basically hot wired to ground where the pump runs full blast when the key is in the run position. No PWModulation (not fueling). Then, the key. It will not trigger the starter (not cranking) I get a code for high rail pressure. A code for rich running on bank 2. That's it.

I want to eliminate the Inertia Switch but want to be sure (thanks to yall GURUs) I get it "right". I'm thinking I want to bridge the WU (white and blue) and RG (Red and Green) wires at the plug (permanent ON) while leaving OPEN the GU (Green and Blue)???? Switch unplugged all together, not used.

If there are anymore drawings you would like to see of the electrical systems please ask. I have the guide and can, will, post them up.

Agrrrrrrr... What a thing!

 

So what do y'all think? Is the TRIPPED inertia switch (shut down) feeding the GU wire? To bypass the Inertia is it just jumping the RG to the WU?

There's only 3 wires going into this thing, but I don't know...
I hate electrics! I can never trust what I can't,,,, see or touch.

 

Yes, that will do it.

As for the inertia switch's original function, since the pump control has been disconnected from the system and will likely continue running in a crash anyway, seems like you will incur little additional risk by spragging the switch in your particular circumstance. In general, not washed ones are about $30 used.

 

Thanks Man!

I'm not near the car anymore today (got cold).

You must remember how much a pain this car was and is and how much a pain I was when I was writing questions about it to the group. But yeah, I'm back at it.

I have a new to me BPM, IC and all new fuse boxes - which all came with relays I'm pleased to say.

Before I dump all of that stuff into and install it in the car AND find someone (which isn't easy) to get all the modules talking and working together, I thought I might take one more stab at seeing if things will come together without swapping the BPM and IC... May just install the fuse boxes.

I have no intention of running without the Inertia Switch. Just temporarily to see if things will come together without it. Looking at the diagram, lots of subsystems are tangled up in it. I mean, if it's not working right, lots isn't. Maybe, due to corrosion, the kill side of the Inertia Switch is getting some current,,, or maybe the GOOD side of the switch isn't getting enough...? As it's always been with this car,,, grasping at straws... Yup, we'll see.

Anyways Bass, as usual you provide right assistance and assurance. Thank you. We'll see how it goes...