So, at 50000 miles it is now time for an oil and filter change on the Jag. I have an original ZF filter and Lifeguard 6 oil. The kit also came with new bolts and a new connector sleeve and the rectangular Mechatronics seal.
My transmission is shifting fine, except for hard shifts 1-2 and/or 2-1. I have only driven the car a few hundred miles since i bought it, so still learning. There are no leaks anywhere on the tranny, including the connector sleeve!! The VIN number is in the range for TSB JTB00145 - ZF Transmission Adaption Drive Cycle - hard shifting. ( Don't know if I can find a shop with the requires Software)
My questions are:
1. With the pan dropped, should the connector sleeve be replaced, even if it is not leaking? I.e. is it like the "green shower" - only a matter of time?
2. Is the same true for the rectangular Mechatronics seal?? Should it be replaced too??
3. With the Mechatronics unit dropped, there are also four round tubular seals that nobody seems to talk about. Should they not be replaced at the same time??? If not, why??
4. After replacing these Mechatronnics seals, is it then necessary/mandatory to do a tranny adaption drive cycle?? What software/stuff is needed?? Talked to local Jaguar dealer today and they don't want to touch it.

I think I have read all I can find about this, but is still somewhat in the dark about all the above. Anything else I should know?? Help!

 

I did all of that:

1. I don’t see why replacing that sleeve world hurt if you already have the part. It will leak eventually, you might as well get it done now.
   
2. Yes, do replace them as well.
   
3. I did replace these as well. Worth the peace of mind.
   
4. People here claim the adaptations are necessary, but I didn’t get them done. The only Jag dealer in the island doesn’t want to touch anything older than 2009. There are no Jag independent shops near me. I haven’t had a problem with the transmission due to not doing the adaptations.
   

 

Thanks for your reply. My thinking as well. Once it is down, do them all. My only concern is that if there is any kind of leak at any of the Mechatronics seals, it may affect shifting and a transmission reset might be in order. My hope is that the oil change may help with the hard shifting

 

Yes, that is usually the case, but if no dealer or shop is willing or able to do the adaptations, are you going to keep driving around with old fluid, and leaking seals and connectors because of that? Skipping the adaptations will not grenade the transmission. ATF leaks and old fluid eventually will.

I hope the transmission software is capable of eventually improving the adaptations on its own.

 

Hi Nalle,

You don't mention whether you are just going to drain the fluid and replace the pan/filter, or strive to replace all or most of the fluid either by multiple drains & refills or by flushing the fluid via the cooler lines or pump intake:

ZF 6HP Transmission Fluid Flush DIY

If you flush via the cooler lines or do three drains & refills, you may find that the 1-2 and 2-1 shift harshness improves or disappears. If it doesn't go away entirely, it can almost certainly be resolved by clearing the Mechatronic adaptations and updating the firmware to the latest version (which was released in 2006 if I recall correctly). To do this, a shop must have the Jaguar-Land Rover IDS or SDD diagnostic system with the necessary calibration files. The version I use for this is SDD V130.3. See if you can find a local shop that services Jaguars that may have this system. Alternately, if you do the fluid and pan/filter change, your local dealer may be willing to conduct the firmware update (if they still have the necessary equipment).

Please keep us informed!

Cheers,

Don

 

You don’t need to do the adaptation cycle when changing the fluid or seals. I would get fresh fluid and see if that helps with your shift issues before messing with the adaptation cycle.

I got a similar BS story from the dealer about not changing fluid and how clearing the adaptation could “ruin” the transmission. Once I had the JLR software I did it myself and it did in fact help with the 2-1 lurch problem I had.

If you did want to do it, you need the SDD dealer software, an assistant, about 2 miles of strait road and zero chance of traffic interference.

 

Yes, I'll do the oil, filter and seals first and see how it goes. If the 2-1 hard shift is still there, I'll see about the adaption cycle. I see that you are in Phoenix also. Do you know of any shop in the area that can do the adaption cycle????

 

Funny, I didn’t look at where you were at.

For the things I can’t do myself I take mine to Sports and Collector car. Sports & Collector Car Center | Full Automotive Service in the Valley | Sports & Collector Car Center I have never asked specifically about the adaptations but in general they are a great bunch, real “car guys” and not afraid of quirky vehicles. Can’t hurt to ask.

If you get the fluid changed and still have problems and are stuck with doing the adaptations, I might be able to help you. I have the software, a cable and have done it before (on my 2003). There is a road on the reservation just south of Ahwatukee where I am that works well for doing the drive cycle if you go early before traffic picks up.

 

The Mechatronic should eventually adapt to the new fluid's friction/slippage characteristics, but clearing the adaptations with SDD and then conducting the adaptation drive cycle (especially while monitoring the solenoids in SDD) will accelerate the process. Updating the firmware helps with overall gear shift smoothness, but changing the fluid usually helps significantly and is the first thing that must be done regardless.

 

Don,

This is my second "drop the pan/filter and refill". That should get most of the old oil out, i hope??

 

Charlie, I will for sure check out the Sport and Collector Car Center. Stopped by at the Jaguar dealer in Chandler yesterday and that was a waste of time.
Thanks for your "maybe offer"! We'll worry about that if that need ever arrives. First I'll do all the rest.
I just got the car in the spring and went north for the summer. Came home a couple of weeks ago and now have a long list of things to do. The transmission is on top of he list. I did one oil/filter change in the spring and realized that I needed better jacks. I just received my QuickJacks from Costco and now look forward to the second oil change.. I also ordered the four Mechatronics sleeve seals last night and it looks as if I will have a busy weekend.

 

My understanding is the opposite. The procedure to reset the adaptations does a major re-set of the PWM for each the solenoids. Then, it keeps "adapting" for 100 miles, and then that is it, no more dynamic adaptations at all. Now, as the fluid evolves and ages, its characteristics do change and cause less-than-perfect shifts. This is why I believe we should do a major maintenance as we are talking about, and then later do a further fluid change to get even more new fluid in the system. Then do a software adaptations re-set. This way, it all fits together, new adaptations with new fluid.

Reputedly, Ericson Industries/ZF has a helpful customer service line that is apparently receptive to those kind of questions. Might be good to call them to confirm.

FWIW, my Foxwell OBD handheld device claims it can do transmission adaptation reset as well (there is a menu entry), as a possible alternative to SDD.

 

There is also the "TSB JTB00145 - ZF Transmission Adaption Drive Cycle" that applies to my VIN. It makes me believe that it is more to it than just "drive and wait".

 

Hi Nalle,

Those who are inclined to mathematically analyze this question usually suggest that it takes three drains and refills to replace most of the old fluid, due to the intermixing that occurs using this method vs. a flush. You don't have to drop the pan - you can just open the pan drain plug (I think it takes about an 8mm or 10mm hex bit). Take care when reinstalling the plastic drain plug to observe the torque spec, which is in the low Nm / inch pound range. If you overtighten it the plug will keep rotating and clicking so it's difficult to tell by feel when the proper torque has been achieved.

Cheers,

Don

 

Don, thanks for the input. Will drop pan and replace this time as I will also do the Mechatronics seals. Then, for the third change, I'll just pull the plug.

 

This is why you need to do the connector sleeve at this time, too. The sleeve is "locked" in place, and the unlock tab can only be reached with the pan removed.

 

Yes, I am doing the connector sleeve, the rectangular Mechatronics seal and, since I have to drop the unit, yesterday I ordered the four tubular seals as well. I hope that will do it.

 

• Be sure you have the proper tool to remove the fill plug, and start with checking that you can actually remove the plug before draining the fluid. I used a hex bit with a wrench around the hex stem, plus a pipe for leverage.
• The fill plug is partially obstructed by the exhaust pipe, so be prepared (gloves, or wet towels) as you have to fill and plug with the engine running, i.e. HOT!
• The temp will rise during the refill, and there is a limited amount of time to put the plug back on, but it is not that quick
• You need to measure the fluid temp, so have a proper scan tool to use the factory sensor, or a "laser" thermometer
• Consider using MERCON SP an it is way cheaper, especially if you factor in the second drain/refill down the line
• Check the transmission mount and flex coupling while you are there
• On an '04, you should have the screws with the bigger Torx bit, but expect a few will round off if you happen to have the smaller one. Be ready for plan B
• Read and apply the torque sequence for the (19 or 21?) screws
• Be sure to clean the mating surface for the pan seal, and make sure you do not pinch it (it is a simple tall/vertical seal that fits into a groove)
• A helper is nice for this, but not absolutely necessary, as you need to row through the gears dring the initial phase
• Consider measuring how much fluid you get out vs. how much fluid you put back. This is for sanity check, and also possibly to get a sense if you were somehow running low or high before.

Best of luck, keep us posted.

 

Thanks for all good info. I am already committed to Lifeguard 6 - don't want to mix. Have all tool and most parts lined up. Just waiting for the four tubular Mechatronics seals that should arrive tomorrow.
This will also be the first test of my newly acquired QuickJacks. I am curious to find out how it will be to work with only front and rear access - no side entry.



I'll send an update once the wheel are on the ground again. Thank to all for the great support.

 

The adaptation drive cycle is a very particular thing, no normal human would ever drive a car the way you have to to successfully complete the cycle. You have to be super gentle, keep the throttle in a very narrow range and a particular speed when the shifts occur.

That's why I say if you are going to do it, then it's best to have a ride along to manage the laptop and trigger the steps and to find a very empty piece of road.