Hey Lads,

After resetting all my DTC's using the SDD software, I cannot get three monitors to complete. I have to smog the car here in a couple of days as I am on a temp registration of 10 days - some of those are already gone.

Here are the incompletes:
1) Comp. Component
2) Oxygen Sensor Monitor
3) EGR System

I am considering that 2 and 3 may very well be related. I have looked through the O2 activity on my SDD software and although the sensors have varying responses, they do appear to be functioning both before and after cat. I am also able to monitor the heaters turning off and on.

I can't find anything amiss in the software so trying a traditional route which will almost certainly include the software again I am sure.

Based on these INC, where would you go looking for the potential issue? One thing is that Vegas is very hot so I don't get the lower temps that are normally required for a scheduled drive cycle - which I have done to the letter. If the ambient temp is the issue, it would be good to know.

Aside from that, I can monitor just about anything on the car parked or driving so what sensors would you suggest I capture? As I said, the o2 system appears fine but maybe the variations on the left vs right are a sign of problems? Maybe an air leak or something?

A few pointers fast would be very helpful

 

Your DTCs may well be the only clues you have. Clearing them was unwise I'm afraid.

 

Just keep driving. We've seen cases where it took several tanks of gas/weeks to have all monitors set.

Do NOT delete any codes as you'll be starting over from zero again.

 

Thanks guys, I have been here before with other vehicles so its not a OMG moment for me.

My experience has been that monitors sometimes do not reset because an issue with something is preventing it from happening. If knowledge serves me correctly, anything to do with O2 sensors is usually a pretty quick test and should not be laying incomplete like this.

There has to be an issue in the O2 sensor area somewhere so that's why I was asking. I know the drive cycle required to reset everything.

I had a KIA Sportage once that holy crap, it simply would not reset after tanks of fuel. Had to drill way down on the net to find a drive cycle document but once I did and completed it exactly as described, the vehicle reset on a 20 minute drive.

Any other advice is certainly appreciated

 

I would encourage you again to have a look at the fuel trims. Code only triggers if they reach 25%. In my experience, they need to be in the (ideally) low single digits. Check the numbers, and check for lack of symmetry between the banks.

Also, air flow meters are cheap ($25 on eBay) for our 4.2. I can pass along the DENSO number if need be. This device sort of drives everything, in a way.

FWIW, if I reset the codes on my car, the "Components" monitor takes several trips to clear. All the others clear out pretty quickly.

Best of luck, keep us posted.

 

For me, those 3 are the last to set, with specifically the Comprehensive Component test being the last. I find that driving around in 3rd gear for about 30-40 minutes has taken care of those for me. Put the drive selector in 3 and drive a mix of city / highway. Also coast to stops that you can in 3rd, and especially keep in 3rd at high speeds. I even accelerate from a stop in 3rd. I am guessing that the sustained high rpm's in a warmed up engine is what allows those last 3 monitors to complete, as the other 4 monitors (I think there were 7 total, maybe 8) complete very quickly. Give this a try once or twice before trying to troubleshoot something which may not exist.

 

Agreed, just drive the car through multiple drive cycles this weekend and see if everything finally clears by early next week....

 

Thanks guys,

Knowing that someone else has waited on those monitors too helps provide some confidence to just drive it more - I'm ok with that

 

I have a routine that works 100% of the time 50% of the time.

Try this first thing in the morning:

1. Start car and let idle 7-8 minutes, yes minutes.
2. Get on Freeway and drive at a STEADY 60MPH for 10-15 minutes.
3. Pull off the freeway and drive on a surface street at 32 MPH for about 2 miles. Turn engine off and sit for 1 minute, then go back to fwy at 32MPH.
4. Get back on the freeway and drive back home, all your sensors should be cleared except CCM.

It is important to maintain speeds and do not slow down or brake during this, so pick the slow lane on the fwy. ALSO tank needs to be at 1/2 full.

Keep in mind, if you are not getting more codes, there isn't necessarily a problem, you just haven't done the magical combo to clear the tests.

 

Much appreciated.

Yesterday I just decided to check my overflow tank for coolant and lo and behold it was empty. Got myself a jug of coolant and started to top it up and guess what, it took the whole damn jug!I thought what the hell, how can it be that low and not warn me? Unbolted the overflow for a look see and that's when I discovered A) There is a leaking crack around one side of the plastic box and B) someone decided it was a good idea to bridge the connector to the low level sensor - UGH!The Bosch connector had completely crumbled from heat and age and I guess the previous owner bridged it because it wouldn't stay locked to the sensor. Anyway, my dash gauge and computer both showed engine temps as normal but still, that means I am driving around in Las Vegas minus a gallon of coolant and also no pressure in the system.

Looks like my attempt to smog this thing are over for the moment until I get the new parts needed. Or maybe I give epoxy a shot today and see if it holds for a little while

 

I bought an XK8 convertible (still have it) and the coolant indicator was bridged.

She drove it "until it wouldn't move anymore"

 

Horrors.

 

Interesting update!

So I received my replacement overflow bottle today. Came with new cap and new sensor too!

When I plugged it all back in I get a low coolant warning on the dash which is what the old overflow bottle was doing too. Probably why the connector was bridged by the PO.

So maybe the new Bosch connector I put on there is wired backwards? I don't see it but ok, jump the connections in the reverse - no difference. Bridge the connector again and the warning goes away. At least I can drive the car again.

Thoughts?

 

Razorboy, Funny you should mention this; I had a total rejection myself just yesterday. Seems this is a very common problem with a great many Jaguars. Apparently, disconnecting the battery or clearing old error codes will reset emission parameters to zero. You can drive 1,000 miles and never get a single parameter to register, if you don't put the car through it's paces. At the recommendation of the independent shop that smogged my car, I drove about 150+ miles at 60 to 70 mph and went back before closing. 3 of the 5 parameters showed "Completed" but the O2 sensor and the "OBD Complete" were still "Incomplete." I found this website last night and learned what to do, and today I passed with all 5 "Completed" with only an hour's time invested:

https://www.obd-codes.com/jaguar-drive-cycle

The indy shop owner reiterated what I learned elsewhere online last night, that we need to drive about 300 miles in the week before getting the car smogged. For the O2 drive cycle, the hardest part is finding a stretch of road where you can speed up, slow down, speed up, slow down, idle on the side of the road for 11 minutes, drive at a steady 30-60 mph for 10 minutes, then push it up over 3,000 rpm in 4th gear (= about 70 mph), then coast for 30 seconds, (all without getting pulled over for driving erratically).

Driving continuously about 50-75 miles then doing the O2 sensors drive cycle will probably clear them both, which will in turn complete the "Comp Complete". Let me know when you have the time to do it and I'll be glad to come over and ride shotgun with you.