'97 XK8 Conv bogs down when making tight right turns
#1
'97 XK8 Conv bogs down when making tight right turns
As the title suggests, in the first few minutes of driving when I turn right at a stop sign/light the frequently car bogs-down when turning right. I haven't noticed at all when turning left. (I'm in the US so right turns are tighter than lefts)
I have thought it might be an overly sensitive traction control setting since that's about the greatest difference in wheel speeds other than true traction loss. To Troubleshoot it, when I think about it, I turn traction control off. I can't say I have POSITIVELY proven it, but it never SEEMS to do it when T/C is off. (It might just be luck) I've never been able to test with tight left turns, cause the actual problem only occurs about 20-30% and is not reliably repeatable so I wouldn't know if lefts dont cause it or it just isn't happening then.
1) Any one have any better reasons a tight turn would bog-down?
2) If this IS the reason, what can I do to keep from getting hit some day turning right in front of a truck?
Thanks,
I have thought it might be an overly sensitive traction control setting since that's about the greatest difference in wheel speeds other than true traction loss. To Troubleshoot it, when I think about it, I turn traction control off. I can't say I have POSITIVELY proven it, but it never SEEMS to do it when T/C is off. (It might just be luck) I've never been able to test with tight left turns, cause the actual problem only occurs about 20-30% and is not reliably repeatable so I wouldn't know if lefts dont cause it or it just isn't happening then.
1) Any one have any better reasons a tight turn would bog-down?
2) If this IS the reason, what can I do to keep from getting hit some day turning right in front of a truck?
Thanks,
#2
#3
I'm usually accelerating moderately after turning right at a light or stop sign, from a dead stop or VERY slow. The car slows down and has no throttle response much like when Trac control kicks in on ice. That lasts a couple of seconds and then it accelerates normally. (Just enough time to get run over if you pull out in front of someone.)
Like I mentioned, I've already thought about turning Trac off, but the combination of it only happening once in a while and my short memory forgetting to turn it off every time I start it has made it difficult to positively isolate it. (Any way to disable it semi-permanently?)
I don't remember it ever happening with Trac off, but like I said...my luck, it's just not happening when I'm looking for it.
Like I mentioned, I've already thought about turning Trac off, but the combination of it only happening once in a while and my short memory forgetting to turn it off every time I start it has made it difficult to positively isolate it. (Any way to disable it semi-permanently?)
I don't remember it ever happening with Trac off, but like I said...my luck, it's just not happening when I'm looking for it.
#4
Jay, this is a common "learning" for many of us myself included. With Trac = on the car will big down by design anytime it senses a loss of traction. As I recall the car will change timing, decrease fuel delivery, even operate individual brakes to "stabilize" and regain traction.
I've found specific corners where this happens every single time. You could turn trac off at begining of ride, see if it goes away. I hope it does. You could develop the reaction to reach out to turn it off when this happens, which is what I use.
sounds like you are at a point now where you have to prove it to the switch. There must be some corners where it happens all the time. How about doing a test there?
John
I've found specific corners where this happens every single time. You could turn trac off at begining of ride, see if it goes away. I hope it does. You could develop the reaction to reach out to turn it off when this happens, which is what I use.
sounds like you are at a point now where you have to prove it to the switch. There must be some corners where it happens all the time. How about doing a test there?
John
#5
#6
Possible culprit is the big air intake tube, and the "accordion" part in particular. Check both the top and the bottom for cracks. Sometimes what happens is that the engine rocks and pulls on hoses attached to the body and opens existing cracks. These cracks allow un-metered air to get in and create a temporarily lean condition. Likely these cracks are closed (or mostly closed) at idle or at rest. Re-check the fuel trims (a cheap ELM37 can do it) to validate.
Also double check the condition of the motor mounts. See if there is any excess rocking of the engine as compared to the body that can make this situation worse.
Also double check the condition of the motor mounts. See if there is any excess rocking of the engine as compared to the body that can make this situation worse.
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