I have not done brake pads in YEARS. My pront pads on my jag with 73k are about done. Is this something I can do? DO I need any speacial tools?

 

No special tools other then a "c" clamp large enough to push the calipers back in,before your push them back put a cloth around the brake resivior and take the cap off.

With 73K on the car,I would also replace the rotors as well,which is pretty easy since your already doing the pads

 

Rather than pump the old yuky fluid back into the reservoir, why not open the bleed valve, use the clamp to push the cylinder and the old fluid out the bleed valve, siphon the old fluid out of the reservoir, fill with new fluid and then go about bleeding the system?

 

Why replace the rotors if they seem fine. I get no pulse as if they are warped or anything.

 

Jeesh, you have to bleed the system just to replace pads?

 

You don't HAVE to. But you do have to let some fluid out when you compress the calipers to get the new pads in. It just that because your fluid absorbs water over time it's a good time to flush the old crap out and replace it with new. As far as your rotors, they have a certain minimum safe thickness. I'm not sure what that is for Jag. If it's still within tolerance they should be OK. Mine has about 55k on them and it seems a lot of material has worn down. I will be replacing them soon.

 

So what happens if I just put on the pads and do not worry about the rotors. Worste case senereo is that they eventually warp and I get the pulsing pedal upon braking?

 

You are probably going to be just fine. Jack up the car on stands, pull the wheels, and replace the pads. You will have to push the pistons back in because the new pads are thicker. When you do this make sure the brake fluid in the master cylinder does not overflow. Paint does NOT like brake fluid!!

We are suggesting extra steps because that is the right way to change brake pads. However, if all you want is to get the car on the road with new pads, you will probably be OK. If not, then you can come back and ask more questions... and probably get flamed ;-)

 

Also, you do not want to have new pads on rotors that are glazed. If there's enough meat on them, at least have the glaze milled off of the rotors.

 

Yup, at least turn the rotors and have the thickness checked...just to make sure their within spec. If close at all, highly recommend rotors while you're in there, as they may end up warping if too thin, and you'll need to replace before the pads ever wear.

 

We just trying to get you to do the job correctly as long as you got the wheels off and changing the pads.I HAVE ALWAYS BELIEVED THAT THE FIRST THING I DO ON MY CARS IS MAKE THAT STOP,WITH ALL THE MONEY IT THE ENGINE TO MAKE IT GO FASTER,I WANT IT TO STOP FAST AS WELL.So if you doing brakes take the time and do it right,rotors and pads are less then $200. and $15. for brake fluid

 

Can I get rotors and pads from my local chain parts store?????? Seems to me a Jag dealer will cost way more then 200.00 bucks as mentioned above. Will the local chain store be quality stuff????

 

If I pull the rotors and put in new ones do the new rotors need turned or just slap them in. Are there bearings up there that need redone when the rotor comes off???? Special tool needed to get rotor off?

 

I would assume at 73k miles the rotors are orig and prob would need replaced even if only turned a few times in their life?

 

My local ******* I mean dealer wants 267 for a set of rotors and 138 for a set of pads.

 

1. There are a lot of aftermarket pads and rotors out there. Most are better IMO better than factory replacements, especially the pads.
2. No special tools needed to remove the pads or rotors. You do need, I think, a 7mm allen head socket to remove the guidepins.
3. Measure the rotors for thickness and runout to be certain if you need new rotors. There isn't much material on a stock rotor so turning them is not recommended. If you plan on keeping you car a while, I highly recommend having your new rotors cyrogenically treated. You won't believe how much long your rotors will last if you have this done. See www.frozenrotors.com. You can buy rotors through theim. I have no affliliation with them.
4. In most cases you will need a big mallet or hammer to remove the rotor. Although the rotor is supposed to "slide" off after you remove the caliper bracket (which you don't need to do if just changing pads) they usually will need some persuasion with a hammer to come off.

 

Lots of choices on rotors and pads. I personally like the Akebono Euro ceramics with about any aftermarket rotor. $250 for rotors and $125 for pads seem about right these days. Aftermarket pads will dust much less than the OEM ones though.

Also brg, no need to turn the new rotors, just slap'em on. you'll feel a considerable difference after 73k miles on the old ones.

 

You can buy stock replacement rotors for less than $70 each. Shop around. My favorite pad for these cars are Z-Rated Performance Friction pads. They are one of the very few compression composite pads around for consistent quality. I have tried EBC's, Hawks, Ferrados, Disc Italia, Jurids, Brembos, Akebono's, and Axxix on XK8's and XJ8's and XJR's and none beat the PF pads in terms of performance and value in my opinion.

 

If you don't have them milled off at least sand both sides of the rotors to rough them up and get some of the glaze off. This will help your pads to "bed in". Goto Hawks Pads Co. and read their way of bedding in your pads to your rotors.

As for your fluid, as stated the fluid sucks up water and it also has a boiling point. The pads and rotors get very hot when you stop. Try touching one of your rotors after you come to a stop! With as many miles as you have on your fluid it would be a good idea to flush/bleed the system with new fluid.

Breaks are the most important system that you have. It doesn't take that long to do.

 

Minimum thickness for rotors:

Front 26 MM
Rear 18.5MM