I am the new owner of an XK8. I bought the car as is and unfortunately when I received the car the power steering system was dry (no fluid). When I filled it with fluid it leaked at the pump and at the rack bellows at the tie rod. So it looks to me like the pump went and debris then ruined the seals on the rack. I am planning to replace the pump and the rack. My question is, how do I clear the system of the contaminants in the hoses and radiator before installing the new pump and rack so I don't ruin the new parts? Also, if anyone has done these installations, pump and rack, I appreciated any advice and specific steps to do the installations. Thank you in advance for any help here. Great forum.

Regards,
Jeff

 

Well if you install the new pump and attach the inlet hose to a supply of ps fluid, wouldn't that let you just flush fluid through?

Alternatively, get a drill driven pump from the hardware store, set one hose in a bucket of ps fluid, tape other hose to one end of the circuit and pump away.

You could also remove the cooler and take it to a rad shop for tank cleaning. Run rifle bore cleaning brushes through hoses.

 

This is the power steering system layout:



JTIS warns "if any major component is renewed, a new Fluid Reservoir, with integral filter, must be fitted".

Renewal may be excessively cautious but you do need to ensure the Fluid Reservoir (item 3) is thoroughly clean and unobstructed before fitting the replacement parts. This is best done off the vehicle. The Reservoir is attached to a bracket with two nuts and has a feed and a return hose secured with spring clips.

Graham

 

The reason for that may be the integral filter. It might be difficult to ensure that all debris is out and not hiding in one of the seams or under one of the support struts.

 

Guys - Thanks for the response here. I know a lot of this is common sense for those that do this stuff all the time. The information about the reservoir is interesting. I'll pull it and take a good look at it. It may be worth replacing to ensure the new rack will not generate leaks. Man this is turning into a big job. Frustrating for a first time Jaguar owner. Thanks you again for all the input. This is a great forum and website.

Best regards,
Jeff

 

And, THEN WHAT? What did you do, and how did you do it? The purpose of this forum is to show everyone how to do specific tasks and repairs. If you are still out there, please tell us how you did the pump swap.

Ken K

 

For members searching these threads for results, I am adding where I am right now after an unbelievable fight just ti get the stupid HP line fitting off the pump.

FINALLY!

My son placed a 1/2" X 36" round breaker bar against the a/c pulley and gave the 5/8" stubby a little push. The nut FINALLY broke loose. That's way over the top for normal maintenance.

We have been searching for an "O" ring seal. So far, not finding one on the line connection or up in the pump with a small pick. All the replacements I see for sale have an "O" ring at the end. So....hmmmmmmmmm.....I guess removal of the pump has once again become mandatory.

I would rather keep this original HP line with the 90 degree bend. The newer lines/fittings look even harder to line up and start threading in.

Anyway, "good" for now.

Ken

 

While you are in there you may want to change the starter motor . mine has done 111k and going strong but being RHD I have to take the rack off to get at it .

 

Did that at about 114K in 2011....approx. 4K ago. They do go bad. Fortunately, Mine is LHD. A bit easier. I think I have one or two in a box that I never had rebuilt or sold.

I thought I could just pull the old "O" ring off the end of the HP tube and replace it, but it seems to be down inside some kind of groove. ???? Is there also a small flare to the end of the tubing? I don't quite get how that would sit inside the pump.

Ken