ok , I have read many threads about these problems, but have not answered my question. I have removed all the speed sensors and cleaned all 4 I can clearly see the three metal bars (magnetic), I also can see one hole above and below the metal bars. I still get the warnings randomly. I will even get the lights when I'm not moving, that does not make sense to me.

I have not gone into the ABS module at this point.

That is my question, do those in the know, think that is where the problem lies?

My local jaguar dealer that charges 155.00 per hour labor wants 1 hour to plug in the reader and see what the code is. My reader will not pick up C or chassis codes.

Since I can get a light when standing still, does that say anything.

Is worth trying to remove the module and check soldered pins?

Also I checked the wires to the sensor and they look very good, nicely tied down and look clean but can someone explain in detail how to check, I have a good volt meter but don't really know how to use it.
I hate the idea of paying 155.00 to Jaguar to plug in their reader!!
Thanks for any input and or guidance for this issue.

Happy Motoring...

 

Hi.

Before removing and opening the module you may try the following:

Disconnect and spray sparsely all electrical connectors.
Have somebody give the module some soft knocks while you monitor the warning lights. (May indicate bad soldering).
Turn steeringwheel from side to side. Flashing warning may indicate chafing wires.
Have somebody pushing each corner of the car while you monitor warning lights. Again may indicate chafing wires.
Check resistance of wireing.

I do not think your problem lies in the wheelspeed sensors since you get the warning standing still.

 

The detailed pin point tests are laid out in JTIS.

 

Thanks Oyster for taking the time to give ideas.
I think you hit on one, when I am not moving and I turn the wheel to the left the lights will come on. But when I look at the wire with the wheel removed the wire looks perfect, it has been wire tired down so it does not move.

If it is the wire where do I look for problems with it?
the wire goes from the sensor and goods across and then disappears like it is going into the engine compartment. Where does the wire plug into another wire? How long is the wire that connects the sensor, where does it lead to?
Thanks again for any help you can think of.

Happy Motoring...

 

ok, now I have switched the sensors from side to side.
I still have the left turn problem,
when I turn to the right no problem, turn to left and the lights come on ABS, No traction/No ASC.

Does this narrow down the problem to the left wheel wire harness for sure?
Or could it still be the module solder connections?
anything else I can do?

How easy is it to replace the front wire harness?
is it a DYI job?
I know the part number is LJD 3410 AA

Again, thanks for any ideas.

Happy Motoring...

 

Hi.

I would not conclude it's the left harness, but I would say it's either left or right front harness. Check resistance of harness again moving steering wheel to pinpoint left or right. The resistance could be around 1 kOhm not 2 kOhm. (Varies with model year)

 

Hello,
I have removed the both front sensors and cleaned all the connection with electronic cleaner, sensors and connectors, removed the ABS plug cleaned, checked the fuses all good.

I do not know how to check resistance. I put multimeter on ohms (auto) and placed the probes in the top left two holes on the ABS plug (#17 & #18)and #3 & 4 as well, nothing engine off, I also did this with the engine running and nothing no reading.

Now the ABS light and no traction/no ASC will now
not turn off!!

I am now thinking it is the solder points in the module, because prior to tapping on module , I could get the lights to go out or reset by turning the car off and than on again and the lights always went out now after the tap job the lights won't go out!

I have read that you do not have to disconnect the brake lines to remove the module could someone give me directions on how to remove module I have not been successful in searching or downloading the JTIS. Also once inside module is there any other maintenance to do, any other solder point or just the two on the bottom right side of module?Any and all help is appreciated. Thanks in advance.


Please Help!

 

Someone is working some bad juju on me!! I read this thread this afternoon and on the way home, the exact same warnings popped up on my gage.

I did just have the brakes and rotors replaced a week or so ago. Noticed yesterday a slight squeak when stepping on the brakes, coming from the front right wheel. Didn't do it until then, now the warning lights are on. I'm having new wheels and tires installed tomorrow so my mechanic will read the codes then. When I bought the car, it read the same codes but the dealer had the front two tires replaced with better used ones and the codes went away. Hmmm

 

Hi again.

You should establish that both front harnesses are good before opening the module. Get somebody to show you how to use the multimeter, and measure while moving steering wheel. Do not start the engine or even turn on ignition while connecting the meter. The electronics in these cars are very sensitive, and may be easily fried if things are not done correctly. The harnesses may have bad conductivity despite looking good.
Opening the ABS-module is fairly complicated and the hole expensive module is easily destroyed, so now you are warned.

 

Google produces lots of answers to module removal + mending.
Procedure to remove ABS control module? - Jaguar Forums - Jaguar Enthusiasts Forum

 

Ok all you wannabe mechanics (like me) take notice and read!

At this point you all must of read the previous replies to this thread and understand what it is about.

My ABS and no traction/no ASC dash lights were lit like Christmas.

I read all the threads I could to figure out what was wrong and how I could fix the problem, all the threads made it seem fairly easy to diagnose. I did my what I thought was my best for diagnosing the problem, I read, then I asked questions, I received a few answers and I thanked them.
I had pretty much diagnosed the problem, the wiring harnesses all looked just fine no cracks, scuffs, the sensors were cleaned off and I still had lights, so I switched the sensors side to side and the same dash lights.

I had pretty much decided it had to be the ABS module.

Now I was ready to cut into it and do some soldering!

I want to thank oyster(forum member) for his input and guidance thought out my ordeal. He never wavered for a minute, kept telling me to completely rule out any wire harness and sensors issues before going into the module, he said I had been warned!!

I started thinking that I did not really rule out the wire harness because I did not no how to use multimeter all that well and was not able to get a reading of ohms.
But I was quite sure of myself and decided it was the module, so I started to proceed , then I thought about oyster's warning, he was not just wasting his breathe with his warning even though I was sure of my diagnoses, so I decided to ask a few more questions, I called Jake and asked him how to use multimeter, it was quite easy, I was just not making contact with the wires inside the ABS plug because the probes were to thick, he told me to use paper clips pieces to stick inside the plug and then touch the clips with the probes and viola I got reading 1.200 or so on each wheel. Then I went to the right side and measured the sensor themselves and they were fine so now it pointed to the module again, but I started to play with the wire harness on right side a bit and I noticed fluctuations in the reading. So I went farther and kept playing with plug that goes into the sensor and more and more fluctuations even started getting 0.0 reading at times, so now I knew that it was the wire harness and NOT the module or sensors !! Happy days!!
I cut the plug off and some insulation and from the very thin wires inside the cable one red and one white stuck them into the plug holes and got a good reading with no fluctuations, then I glued with 5 second epoxy and then electrical taped the cable and now the reading was a strong with no fluctuations 1.165 ohms, PERFECT. Connected the wire to the sensor and bolted sensor back on wheel and all the dash lights went out and never came back on.

Now I feel GREAT about learning how to read the multi meter for ohms and fix my own ABS problem, but not without great help and strong warnings to make proper diagnosis from forum member Oyster, others help too, steveinfrance and plums I thank them as well, but oyster was strong willed about his advise and I appreciate it.

Thanks Jaguar forum members for being there!!

I actually have a after market warranty and the repair for a new sensor and wire harness has been approved (after my repair) almost 400 dollars, but I hate dash lights, it would be 2 or 3 days until shop could get the parts in and the repair done and I wanted to learn something today and try fixing myself, I did and feel GREAT about it.

I have NO mechanical training but dad always taught me to listen and learn!

I will let the shop do the correct professional repairs because it will be new parts and wires and I won't cost me a dime, but after the warranty is over, I will already be ahead of the game for repairs when it is my nickel.

The moral of the story if you take time to ask questions - take time to listen and learn, it will usually make things easier!!

One other point to make, when forum members do help you with advise, don't forget to thank them openly on the forum by clicking the thumbs-up sign on the bottom right of the page!!

Have a pleasant day and
Happy Mortoring...

 

Good job! Those wiring harnesses cause many of the common dashboard warnings we see on these cars. I had to repair my wife's XK8's rear wheel harnesses back in March. Thus far, no more issues. Let's hope it stays that way for both of us....

 

The link lead from the wheel to the car is the usual problem in ABS/ASC failures. This wire flexes all the time and just fails. Ham fisted techs often damage them during brake work. The front ones are chaep and easy to replace. The rears are more pricey but seldom fail due to the more restricted movement.

 

Hello, could one of the moderators please place a "resolved" in the title of this thread. All is good with repair !
Thanks

Happy Motoring..

 

Thank You !

 

Wow just what I needed thanks for being a awesome guy!!!!

 

Oyster,

This is a great check sheet, Will it work for an 02 XJR? The plug looks similar, just don't know about the pin out.

 

Just threw the jag on the the jack and checked all the wheel sensors. Found one that wasn't reading, cuz it was disconnected. Cleaned it and reconnected.

I did resistance readings from the controller harness to the sensors and all readings were 1.15kohms, which according to ALLDATA is withing tolerance.

I'm going to pull the controller tomorrow and see what I can find.

 

Hi.

The check sheet is not mine. I stole it from gus (www.jagrepair.com). who has a tremendous Jaguar site with an awful lot of useful information. If the sheet is valid for a XJR, I don't know.
If you open the module, it's very hard to see if you have a bad solder connection from the pump. I would resolder it always.

 

Has anyone created new wiring harnesses, instead of buying royally expensive new one$?

They are just wire, so it should be possible to re-use the connectors & just replace the wire in between... right???