MY 1999 XK8 has the intermittant ABS/Traction light, and I have researched the possible causes.
I have cleaned all four wheel sensors. No joy.
So, I intend to remove the module and, since I am not comfortable splitting the case and soldering the possible cold solder joints, I will have it rebuilt.
Since I plan to keep this Jag as long as I can still drive, I want a long warranty so I can avoid module problems in the future. I see that Automotive Scientific, Inc. (ASI) in TN charges $119 for the basic repair service, plus shipping, and an additional $100 for a lifetime warranty upgrade.
Module Repair Pro (MRP) in CA on FleaBay charges $45 plus shipping, and that includes a lifetime warranty.
1. Is the ASI repair service worth five times more than the MRP repair?
2. Has anyone on the forum had experience with MRP?
Input will be appreciated.
Thanks in advance,
Jim
Kirkwood, MO

 

TL;DR; I have not had my module rebuilt.

Besides the module, the wires to the sensors are sometimes coming up with problems, especially the connection to the sensor itself. You might want to inspect these, and pay special attention to the rubber boots. They are supposedly no longer available from Jaguar, but folks have done repairs. I would start at the front, with the high heat from the brakes and the steering.

You probably already know, but the "right" answer is to somehow get the Jaguar-specific diagnostic codes read so you know where to look. It's not that easy without a Jaguar tool as these codes are not part of OBDII.

Last, do not discount the possibility of a weak battery. Check the voltage after the car has been sitting for a few hours. Anything below 12.3V is suspect. Battery maintenance helps here, to a point.

Hope this helps (some).

Best of luck, keep us posted.

 

jimmiejag, I had my module repaired about 4 yrs ago by Module Masters in Idaho. Cost about $150 with 5 yr warranty.

 

I've just had my ABS module circuit board motor supply 2 points re-soldered to cure the same ABS & Traction/Stability Control Faults that you have.

I'm not sure specifically which faults within your ABS Module will ASI or MRP be competent in repairing?

Therefore I recommend you first do the ABS module 2-point re-soldering, and then decide what to do next depending on the outcome.

 

Word of advice, if you are planning on sending your module to ASI or MM do not open up and solder the pump connector pins, neither company will accept a previously opened module, found that out by experience.

 

Follow-up:
I sent my ABS module to Module Repair Pro in Van Nuys, CA, for rebuilding. It cost $45 plus $10 shipping and they were quick, turning it around in two days. I re-installed the module and -- presto!-- no more stability control & traction control failure messages!
I recommend them before cutting into your unit yourself since, as noted by Richard, they will not accept a previously opened module for repair.

 

Glad your problem was solved. I've been dealing with mine for a few years, but I seldom drive the car. I'm gonna pull it out this week, but I don't see a problem re-soldering it myself.......UNLESS God forbid it doesn't flow properly and it would be a PITA to redo. Gotta make sure I have a "solder sucker". As to the guys in Van Nuys, they now charge $100 for the same repair/re-solder. It takes about 10 minutes after the box is opened or a hole is used. For $45 I wouldn't even waste my time doing it, but $100 + shipping? Hmmmmmm. The question is, now 4 years later, is yours still working OK??

 

OH! Jimmie! Did you think it was necessary to disconnect the battery?

I have to CA smog and need to drive the car about 200 miles to make the emissions computer read right. I've only driven it 97 miles since 2 years ago before the last smog test. New tires going to waste.

If I disconnect the battery it will start the emissions circuit all over again. So, do I really need to disconnect the whole battery and power?

 

I split the case on mine and re-soldered the two usual culprits. That was about 2 years ago and no problems since.

note: I’ve been shutting the hood very gently ever since the repair. I don’t think letting it drop 12+ inches does the brittle solder joints any good.


Z

 

l very much doubt it would harm anything by leaving battery connected so long as a clean unplug/plugin is made. Compromise might be to pull the battery power fuses, the ignition power connection can stay so long as you leave key off.
fuses for mine (2000MY) are #16 and #18 engine bay fuse box.

 

Good suggestion. I'll check my fuse boxes and diagrams. Thanks.

Ken

 

Thanks. Probably a good idea on the hood, too. I've al;ways hated the "drop".

Ken

 

#16 and #18 in the box right next to the module and ABS pump? I don't seem to have any schematic to identify those fuses. My boot box lid shows ABS fuses at F4, F16, and F18 in the Left hand engine bay fuse box. Are those what you're talking about? What about the Traction Control and Suspension??

Maybe the F4 "Adaptive Damping ECU" fuse in the BOOT box? What's "adaptive damping"?

Ken

 

Did you open the case with a saw or a Dremel?

Ken

 

Yes #16 & 17 in engine bay box are battery power fuses. #4 is also for that unit but ignition power so no need to worry about that one, just leave ignition off.
Adaptive damping is separate module.
edited to correct fuse location error.

 

I use a fine tooth hack saw blade and make shallow cuts in the case until I can 'crack' the case open with small wedges.

DO NOT cut through the steel tubes for the mount bolts.

I had an argument years ago with a guy that was angry with me because he cut through them and blamed ME for not specifically instructing NOT TO.
Ruined the module and wanted me to compensate him. (musta been a socialist, he wanted one for free)

 

guess what !

if you drive on public roads, expect the firemen to put out your house fire, and send your kids to public schools…..

that’s socialism. Guess that makes you a socialist .


Z

 

hacksaw blade.

 

OK. But back up a little for this: Did you have to release and remove any or all of the brake tubes? One video I watched said it was necessary, while one wiggled the module out without taking any of them off. I'd prefer NOT to disconnect any of them if possible.

Ken

 

NOT "socialism". We vote on all of those repeatedly, and how much to spend on them....either through elected representatives or direct initiative or financing bonds.