Hi all, I'm looking at buying a 1998 xk8, the one I have found has Arden wheels , bodykit and exhausts. I am totally new to classic cars, all I know is it looks stunning. Any advice or information would be greatly appreciated, is it worth more or less?

 

You have found the best place for info on anything relating to the XK. Check the various articles and you will find answers to 99% of your questions.

Sam

 

Be VERY careful with the '97 - '99 XK8s. These years had two major engine related problems. Some of these years had the engines replaced by Jag (you can tell by looking at the rear of the passenger side valve cover - passenger side in the US. I suspect the driver's side in the UK but I don't know for sure). If the engine has been replaced it will have a gray/green Jaguar tag that says it's a replaced engine. If the car does NOT have this tag I would avoid it. It's a catastrophe waiting to happen.

Search the web for: Nikasil cylinder lining. Also search for plastic timing chain guides. The '97s to '99s have BOTH of these 'features' unless the engine has been replaced.

Good Luck.

 

I'm not sure where you're located, but if you're in the US, the nikasil liners aren't an issue. They became an issue in Europe because of the sulfur in the fuel in those early days, but the US didn't have those issue. As far as I know, Europe doesn't have that issue anymore either.

The main remaining thing is as TropicCat said is to check for confirmation that the timing chain guides and tensioners have been replaced with updated metal ones. In general, if you can obtain the service history, let us know and that will be a big help.

I don't know that the Arden stuff is going to make the car any more or less valuable. It would have been expensive for the previous owner to go through with all that, but modifications rarely see any return in market value.

 

I was a Jag novice a month ago. Bought a 2000 w/o doing my homework. Any year Jag XK8 is a great car (w/ plastic tensioners replaced). I have a gorgeous convertible w/ 75k. No chain slap or noise at idle but tensioners needed to be replaced (4k). Any thoughts on selling (7.0?) and buying a 2003-2006? Are lower mileage examples still around?

 

If it doesn't come with a ton of work receipts covering what's been done, be careful. There are a lot of great looking cars out there but it's not what you can see, it's what you can't see that'll get you. If you don't have some mechanical experience I would find a Jag guy to take a look.
Good Luck
Mitch7

 

^^ What he said.
Original Nikasil motor IMO not an issue now. If it's still running fine, consensus is it will continue to do so. Tensioners are clear and present danger if there's no documentary proof that they've been addressed.

In GB, rust can be an issue, There are known problems (rear suspension mounts, rear sills, behind front subframe towers, etc.). If you have the registration #, check here for past MOT history. It may tell you things that the seller may not:
https://www.check-mot.service.gov.uk/

 

Thank you both for the feedback. Did send it to my Jag guy. It now starts and runs smoothly w/ the ABS disconnected. He's confident the rebuilt ABS will make the car drivable so I can get some history. I never buy a car w/o full service history, current smog and pre inspect. My mistake on this because 1) it's a great looking car and 2) it was cheap. Seller reluctantly gave me a verbal service record. Water pump/thermostat replaced (why?). Rear brakes done. Ignition coils/plugs replaced. Neither she or mechanic will tell me anything else. Big flag. No smog which means I can create legal problems for both. I think they know about the tensioners which are the big problem w/ this car. Zero rust. It was garaged (looks like it) so that's good. On the fence about doing smog and selling it or looking for a 2003-2006. Is it hard to find a good one these days?

 

I bought a 1997 XK8 coupe 2 years ago with the tensioners done and a book full of service records with all work done at the Jaguar dealership. I'm not a mechanically inclined guy but it's been a great, trouble free ride so far. I regularly work out town and the car easily gets up to 180 - 200kph on the highway and can do it all day. The handling is great and it's a nice smooth ride winding through the mountain passes. If the tensioners are done I wouldn't hesitate to buy one of these older Jags as they look way better than the "newer" versions.

 

I thought we were over perpetuating nonsense comments on the Nikasil issues - any engines that had issues have long been replaced, and any Nikasil engine that is still ok will continue to be. The fuel additivies that caused the problem are long-gone and there is some suggestion that a Nikasil engine is now a longer-lasting option.

 

There are always going to be something happening with these cars. Fortunately I have experience with engines and cars in general. My '99 came with lots of receipts. I still had a lot of work to do. Tensioners and guides, water pump. coils , injectors, plugs trans filter and fluid change, rear end oil change ( made big difference in shifting of trans), total front end rebuild. They are not rear hard cars to work on. That said, they do need constant looking after and they like to be used. Sitting around is not good. Mine is a everyday driver unless there the roads are crap. When you get them right their a hoot to drive.
Good Luck
Mitch

 

I was informed by the mechanic that went over my car before I bought it that the Nikasil was a problem and to avoid the earlier model cars because of it (and the plastic tensioners). Is this NOT true? Are the fuels currently in use (& likely to be offered for the extended future) free of the additives that caused the breakdown of the Nikasil coating?

 

What does 4k here mean?

 

4k means 4,000 to do all the tensioners (primary and secondary). More than I want to spend. From reading in here, it sounds like doing the uppers is a must do. If they fail, the engine is damaged. If the lowers fail, not great but it's not going to destroy the engine. Having pieces of plastic floating around the engine doesn't sound good tho.

 

Can I assume that you have almost no experience working on engines and cars as a whole? If this is you I would suggest that you buy a 2003 or newer car. I believe from that year on the guides, tensioners and chains don't have to be replaced.
Just a thought
Mitch

 

Mitch - thanks for the good suggest. I do have a lot of experience w/ cars. I've owned 30 including several TR4's, 61 T-bird, 67 GT 390 Mustang, vintage MBZ, various 4WD, etc. Cylinder head replace, rear diff replace, carb replace and tuning, extensive rewiring, many repairs, etc. I've also reached the age where working on them isn't really an option. The 2000 was an impulse buy w/o doing any research. Gorgeous car. Depending on how well the 2000 runs, I may drive to get some Jag experience then sell. Early Jag's are great cars (especially if you like working on cars for fun). You're right, 2003 and newer aren't going to need the guides, tensioners and chains. The problem is finding a good one. They've definitely gone up in price. Never would have thought about buying an XK but glad I did (even if it needs tensioners and probably other work). Thanks again for your feedback.

 

I went with the 2003 for many of the reasons mentioned as well as the superior transmission. The pre 2003's 5 speeds all tend to have tranny issues at some point. I also stayed away from the XKR for easier maintenance. I hit a deal and took a chance on one without all the service history. Not perfect but I love it. Bought it about 2 years ago with 66,000 miles and am over 80K with only very minor mechanical issues. I also think they worked more bugs out of the electronics in the 03's and up. I have never had a restricted performance error and I know a fellow with a older one that just seems to get them at the drop of a hat for very little reason.

With the age on the car you are talking about the interior plastics are going to be going south and you will probably need to do suspension maintenance to replace certain aging rubber bushings and shock buffers along with the timing chain tensionsers and guides. If the coolant hoses haven't been replaced, that will probably also be on the agenda, especially the dreaded valley and octopus hoses. There is a transmission rebuild kit that supposedly solves the A-drum issue. Whether or not it is a good deal depends on what they have already done to it versus the price and your ability to do some work yourself.

 

I think you can find someone to do it for MUCH cheaper than that. It's an outrageous price... The most difficult piece physically is the harmonic balancer... IMHO. Hmm.

​​​​​Shop around? While being careful, of course.

​​​​​

 

Thanks. I'll check around. Based on what I've read in here, $2,500 for just the uppers seems ridiculous. The other Jag specialist quoted the same price. Maybe there's some "officially approved" way of doing it (using factory Jag tools?) but the zip tie way looks fine. Shop works on Ferrari, Lamborghini, Porsche, Range Rovers and Jag. They're expensive. Anything out here is more expensive.

 

Thanks. Sounds like a good decision. Also doesn't the 6 speed get slightly better MPG? I paid 4,300 for mine. Reasonable? I didn't know anything about Jags but it seemed like a deal. Not so sure now considering the repairs needed. That's great that your car has been a success. Interior plastic is fine (garaged since new). Rubber at the top of RH shock (seen from engine compartment) is crumbling. Verbal is that all cooling hoses have been replaced (OEM) but need to check. Is the trans kit called the "Transgo" or something? There's a possible 2006 (94k) for 10,000 at a Bay Area Lex dealer. Plan to take a look altho I'd rather buy a 2003-2006 privately w/ lower miles. LOL, can you intro me to the guy that gets them so easily? Nothing w/in 250 miles. Quite a few nationally in the 10-15 range.