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Have read lots of conflicting posts about not removing half the things suggested or that you should tackle thd job from underneath etc and as the posts I've read are a few years old I was wondering if there is a more agreed upon way to replace the Alternator or if anyone has a new guide I could follow?
Have read lots of conflicting posts about not removing half the things suggested or that you should tackle thd job from underneath etc and as the posts I've read are a few years old I was wondering if there is a more agreed upon way to replace the Alternator or if anyone has a new guide I could follow?
Thanks
I noticed your car is a XKR so there could be other issues. On my 2000 xk8 one thing for sure is to use a Denso alternator. I did not have to remove the radiator fans. With the air intake out of the way there was room to pull the alternator out. However check the super charger and see if it looks possible. Also I removed the oil filter to make the job easier. Actually getting the alternator to break free took some firm persuasion. Plenty of room to just lift it out.
Last edited by Don B; Jun 7, 2024 at 11:24 AM.
Reason: Repaired quotation tag.
Thanks David, I'm going to change the Alternator on Sunday but I read somewhere you need a special tool to remove the oil filter is that correct?
The oil filter is just the usual spin on filter. Usually you can just remove by hand. Any standard oil filter wrench will work if it is in really tight.
Have read lots of conflicting posts about not removing half the things suggested or that you should tackle thd job from underneath etc and as the posts I've read are a few years old I was wondering if there is a more agreed upon way to replace the Alternator or if anyone has a new guide I could follow?
Thanks
I found it easier to disconnect the wires, and remove the bolts from underneath. Jag uses this dopey sliding "shim" thing on the rear part of the main bolt bracket. When you tighten the bolt this thing slides in and takes up any the slack, as it were, in the variations between the bracket width and the thickness of the alternator mounting portion. If you don't retract this sliding PITA a bit you'll play hell prying the alternator out. I take a long prybar and GENTLY force the alternator toward the rear of the car until the slider is pushed back a couple of millimeters. Then the alternator will slide out of the bracket easily. You'll have to push the slider in all the way before installing the new alternator.
For me I worked from both under and above it sucks there's no videos on this but you can remove the intake box, unplug the vvt and then go from under and disconnect the wiring to the alternator, and then you just gotta work the alternator out from the top. May take a few tries but it will com out. then reverse the process.
When I put a new alternator back in I had issues with fitment because it was a bot thicker so I had to sand and hammer it in. (tight fit but I know it for sure wont move!)
For me I worked from both under and above it sucks there's no videos on this but you can remove the intake box, unplug the vvt and then go from under and disconnect the wiring to the alternator, and then you just gotta work the alternator out from the top. May take a few tries but it will com out. then reverse the process.
When I put a new alternator back in I had issues with fitment because it was a bot thicker so I had to sand and hammer it in. (tight fit but I know it for sure wont move!)
When you reinstalled, did you have that bushing thing on the rear bracket "ear" pushed toward the rear all the way? The bracket is noticeably larger than the alternator case thickness, necessitating the need for the stupid bushing. The process after alternator removal is to push that bushing all the way back using a bolt and a nut. Bolt goes in from the rear, nut from the front, crank until the bushing is back all the way. Then the alternator fits loosely until you torque down the bolt, moving the bushing inward to compensate for the variation in alternator case thickness.
Everything that was originally with the alternator prior to removal I put back. Including the air duct for the alternator. If the bolt that holds it in place doesn't fit you may have the wrong alternator.
Do a comparison between both of your alternator to make sure they are the same.
The bracket is noticeably larger than the alternator case thickness, necessitating the need for the stupid bushing. The process after alternator removal is to push that bushing all the way back using a bolt and a nut. Bolt goes in from the rear, nut from the front, crank until the bushing is back all the way. Then the alternator fits loosely until you torque down the bolt, moving the bushing inward to compensate for the variation in alternator case thickness.
The tight sliding bushing is the standard fitment method with most alternators in my experience. I usually just tap the bushing back in with a couple of soft hammer blows before I fit the alternator which make it a loose, easy fit. It only takes a couple of seconds.
The tight sliding bushing is the standard fitment method with most alternators in my experience. I usually just tap the bushing back in with a couple of soft hammer blows before I fit the alternator which make it a loose, easy fit. It only takes a couple of seconds.
Richard
I second that, on most of my fathers cars I had to do that same process. And he had a lot of german and American cars
Regarding alternators, I have recently finally changed my alternator on my 2000 XK8..It is really simple..
Having done it 3 times now....My supplier sent the wrong one.6 band multi V not 7!
The 3 rd time we did in 50 minutes!
Disconnect battery earth! ABOVE
Remove air filter
Remove filterbox
Remove filterbox support bracket
Remove drive belt off the alternator pully only..tensioner is easily accessable, have some one hold the tensioner to aid removal Underneath
Remove the cooling duct
Undo the13mm bolt through the alternator..Very very diffcult first time, as it will be stuck solid!
We used a bit of local heat to warm the alternator lug to help break the Steel/Aluminuim bond
Unplug the cable connector and the main charging cable Above
Remove the top bolt
LIft up alternator up through the space
We found no need to remove hoses, Oil filter etc.
I finally started the job today due to life commitments.
I've removed the bolt from underneath the car, the nut & bolt from above, removed the oil filter for access but I just can't get the Alternator to slide back to the rear of the car a little do I can lift it out.
Well we on our first time, aside from dunking it in WD40, and the heat to aid bolt removal, eased it out with a prize bar(but be careful not to break anything off!).. from above if I remember correctly, between the Alternator and the bracket..Heat may have freed the bush a wee bit
It just needs gentle nudge, and off it slipped... The annoying floating bush seemed to slide in when sideways pressure applied!
As you have removed the Oil filter, you maybe able prize from below...I assume it is pivoting on the bush as well which will help loosen things..
I hope this helps..Good luck!
My next joyful job is to remove the inlet manifold to change the Valley heat pipes! Arrgh.....
I've only tried to pry the Alternator with a breaker bar/big flat head screwdriver as I don't have a proper ply bar but I'll buy one and try again tomorrow.
I don't fancy adding heat as it might cause more issues than it solves.
I worked from the bottom. Removed the bolt, Got a pry bar and rocked the alt back and forth a few times to loosen, the gently pried between the block and alt. it budged. Continual pressure and rocking back and forth got it to slide out. I didn't have to remove my oil filter. The alt came up from the top (after removal of the air cleaner and mounting bracket), after jiggering it around into the correct position.