Just a quick update on my cars first visit to my trusted independent mechanic for the first time under my ownership. So the cars front right break piston is seized so the whole system will be replaced, the chain tensioners are being upgraded, there are a few rust spots under the car needing to be attended, the rims are bent and need to be replaced and most likely the tires, the door locks have to be fixed (probably holding off on this for a while), there's a wire hanging out somewhere under the car they can't figure out, and I have to see if an auto electrician can find and fix the parasitic drain. I probably forgot something else but all in all, any other car I'd say forget this but there's just something about this car I can't get over and the fact I only paid $4,000 USD makes it a little more tolerable

 

Don't stop yet! Has the plastic thermostat tower been replaced with aluminum? If not that should be high on the list with a new thermostat. The crossover pipe and the short connecting hose, also, and the upper and lower radiator hoses.

Many more details to attend to before it's ready for summer, but that's a start.

 

If you do the T-stat housing, which is easy, DO THE WATER PUMP ALSO, get the AC DELCO unit that has the orig orig and metal gasket like the orig one, best time to do it. That job is pretty easy. I would find the torque settings for all the bolts so ya get them in right and don't have the to do the job twice.
On the T-stat housing where it mounts to the TOP of the motor right in front of the black plastic plenum, there are 4 bolts holding it in. You will need crows feet type of wrench to get them easily. As you are looking down at them the back right one is kinds hard to get, take the metal plate off the front face of the plenum, that bolt is easier to get in and out with that out of the way. When taking those bolts out BE CAUTIOUS not to let a bolt get away from you and UNDER that black plenum.

 

Thanks for the advice, I would rather bite the bullet and just upgrade all these parts like suggested but out of curiosity what would be the consequences of not upgrading these parts?

 

Overheating and a toasted engine as the temp gauge is "fake" and won't warn you until its already overheated. Also replace both the stationary and tensioner idlers with Dayco metal ones and the serpentine belt while its off to do the water pump. Also replace the ECU temp sensor thats on the crossover pipe as its coming off anyways. Its only a $5 part.


Dave

 

On the thermostat tower. Don't grind the manifold. An easier fix is to cut off the plastic housing for clearance to remove the rear bolts and then change them to allen head screws that can be tightened with a ball end allen wrench when bolting down the new unit.
I didn't like the o-ring seal with the new tower and cut out a round rubber disc and used it to seal the top cap.

 

I didn't go through the trouble of grinding off the plastic tower, just stuck a hammer handle in the hole and broke the tower off. I was surprised at how brittle it was, also surprised how tight the rear bolts were, I had to hunt down a 6 point box end to get them loose.

 

Thanks for the info guys I'm writing all this down on my to-do list

 

On the ignition key hole there is a little "door" (flap?) that is supposed to release when you take out the key. Sometimes this sticks and doesn't tell the car to go to sleep. Result is battery drain.

A little lube and working the key in/out a few times will fix it if this is your problem.