I recently installed some H&R lowering springs on my 2001 XK8 and now the camber is way out of whack on the rear... so I bought a set of 7.5mm shims to install (#2 in the photo below), but I have some questions for anyone who has replaced them before. I understand that I need to use an 11/16" socket for the nuts on the assembly, but they are SUPER TIGHT and I was wondering if anyone had any helpful hints or tips when replacing the spacers. I was trying to loosen the nuts with some extensions on my 1/2" ratchet but couldn't get enough torque to break them free, so my next step is to get right up on it with as short of a setup as I can. Anything else I need to know... will an impact wrench work? Is there any special location I should use for better accessibility (like spin the axle and always make sure the nuts are at 2 o'clock or whatever)? AND, what is the torque specs for those nuts when I button it all up? ANY HELP is greatly appreciated!!

 

Nothing?!?

 

Chris, I've never done this job so about all I can add is: Yes an impact wrench could make all the difference getting that bolt loose. Last time I asked or almost any other time it comes up, better mechanics that I always respond "Heat" to loosen frozen bolts.

Hope it works out for you mate,

John

 

I have a 1/2" drive chrome thin wall 11/16" six point Craftsman socket that I bought 30 or 40 years ago that I use for the axle flange nuts. It is worn on the outside from rubbing on the 'U'-joints.

I use a 1/2" impact with a short extension. I have no idea what the torque spec is. I just tighten them with my half inch impact. After working on Jaguars for over 40 years I just know how tight the nuts should be by 'sight' & 'feel'. As long as they are tight and EVEN, you should be fine.

bob

 

Excellent!! Thanks!! I will definitely get a thin wall deep well 11/16" and use my impact... It was just tight as sh** and I didn't want to make any mistakes.

 

I do NOT have a deep well socket!!! The normal ones are best to clear the 'U'-joint mounts.

The extension is smaller in diameter to clear the 'U'-joint.

bob

 

Got it! Thanks!!

 

So i finally got around to swapping out the axle shims and it wasn't too bad after all... it was best to work at 12 o'clock as the u-joint was the most out of the way at that point. I bought a thin wall 11/16" 6 point socket (1/2" drive) and used a 10" or so extension and my impact wrench... they nuts were definitely tight the whole way as I was loosening them (without the impact it would have been VERY tough). I get each one loose at the top (12 o'clock) and then pulled the rotor down towards me to get at the factory shim and swap it out. I then tightened it with a ratchet till somewhat tight (to make sure the nut was going on good and straight) and then finished them all up with the impact setup...

Now the rear camber looks a lot better... I will have to get a real alignment to see for sure.

The only question I have is whether or not I needed to replace the nuts after I removed them... they sure were tight all the way coming off but went back on easily enough with a ratchet. Any ideas?

Thanks!!

 

I'm sure the original fasteners used some sort of locking compound. It strips off when the nut is removed.

bob