This looks like right place for this question. Ok here goes I have a 1997 XK8 convertible (car was my mothers) she purchased it new the car has 22k miles on it.

Now 2yrs ago the ECM failed was replaced all went back to normal. Motor not running correct low power.car was not used for 6mos or so due to stepfather passed away as well.

When I went to pick up car. A few things were wrong dead battery 'leaking water' Needed tires. Car was taken to Jaguar and left via wrecker. New battery New Tires Engine Coolant Water Outlet all replaced. Moved car 1000 miles just after has done will no issues till now. cost over $1800.00

Now about a week ago on way to work "battery not charging" message popped on message center on dash and the two red lights one on amp meter it was way low off center point.

So first step to confirm the problem (check voltage at battery car not running) hood and doors open. was 11.0 / 11.5 looked like it was draining at the time which one would think the case.

started car voltage remained low 11.0 volts

Checked at generator it was same 11.0 volts

from the above came to think generator was bad so ordered one and new belt both came in few days (everlast autozone part) lifetime (289 exchange) old one was Denso both have matched regulators built in.

Installed new one no issues only two bolts and one wire and connector put new belt on at same time.

started car checked belt no slips working perfect. And went to battery at idle 14 volts to 14.5. amp meter on dash returned to center as it was before.

Now we know forsure all is charging perfect again but the light and message still on dash displaying 'battery not charging' and the red lights remain on as well.

Jaguar dealer said could be battery so to confirm took car to autozone had them check battery said it was fine no dead or weak cells. Also said generator was charging perfect.

car has not had any issues starting or running anything no drain. Car was parked only driven 2 miles and parked after first happened. Charger was put on it for few hrs just in case type of thing. Car has been driven around 20 miles or so after new generator no issues but message and lights.

I have seen mixed answers with few solutions 'rebuild' old unit and some say rebuilt ones work fine. Which they should if they did not why would they sell them?

Question is why is this car doing this when all looks correct and is there a way to fix it. Should not have to live with it doing this because generator failed.There has to be a solid fix for this issue or a solution outside of replacing generator till one is found it will like. Or a 750+ dollar part that in effect is same.

I am at a loss at this point any idea's?

thanks

 

Do a Hard Reset that might clear the light and message,if not its logged the fault in the ECU so will need clearing

 

How do you do a hard reset?

 

one thing I did try a ODBII meter does not do very well on this car

 

if this is reset did not work only caused windows and alarm to need reset

It is just a quicker method, discharging all the capicitors etc in the electronics rather than waiting a while for them to discharge.
1st - disconnect the negative lead from the battery.
2nd - bridge the positive terminal of the battery to the car body (which is not connected to the battery).

did this for 20 mins did not clear error

 

I understand a hard reset means touching the pos and neg battery leads together (off the battery). It did solve a few of my gremlins.

 

that is just what I did it did cause a few things to cycle like locks but did not clear the 'battery not charging' message or the dash red lights.

my guess is you are correct (thanks)

 

OK, what you've done in terms of a reset has certainly discharged anything that can be discharged.

We have every reason to believe that the battery is in fact charging normally now, right? So I offer this shot-in the-dark suggestion.

Sometimes it seems the logic in these systems needs to see some period of normal readings before error messages get cancelled. So I would just drive it for a while, keeping an eye on the voltmeter in the dash. You've seen what good readings and bad readings look like there, so you can have some assurance things are OK if that reads normally.

With a little luck, the error message may just sort of expire. It beats spending time and money when you have every reason to believe your charging circuit is good now, even if the computers on board don't know that yet.

 

yes you are correct I am 100% certain the car is charging the way it should. The car is being driven guess its a wait and see.

thanks,
Miss-s

 

Ok here is results so far. Car is in shop generator working as it should not a shock. Problem thought so far is the 'dash panel' which I find a far reach because before generator failed it had no issues.

so next step is remove dash and see if it can be fixed (autoecu) can rebuild it.

Shocking part so far no one can say yes or no this is the problem.

rebuild dash cost is 345.00 if it turns out to be the problem.

if ECU no cost

This looks to be a major flaw to me (take a shot in the dark till you find it)

Miss-S

 

Can someone please direct me to the link as to what is the best battery for a 2001 xk8 and how to fit the new battery? Is there an issue with the radio when you change the battery.etc...venting...etc. Many thanks

 

Lots of choices here. Search the forum and you will find numerous discussions. Bottom line, any decent 850+ CCA vented battery should work. Venting is key since it is trunk mounted.

Autozone has several that will work that members have used. If you want to spend the bucks, Optima makes a premium model.

 

The Battery is coded as a Group 49 size and is available from most battery stores.

I believe that the Optima unit is a AGM (Absorbed Glass Mat) unit. These are more expensive ($300+) but are very long lived and do not normally need a vent tube.

 

If I recall correctly all xk8/xkr codes will reset after 5 cycles of nofault. You should with red dash lights and an error message have codes a scanner will read. This then could be cleared with the scanner. I'm with you I don't see it as a dash panel problem but I do recall somewhere in the forums about a dash repair that fixes voltage leaks when the car is in sleep mode.

 

The generator is the problem. Have seen problems with some remans. We use Denso remans with no issues, also Jag remans too. The rebuilder has suceeded in making the generator charge, however the instrument pack is not getting the correct feed from the generator (on the multi-plug).

 

The original thread is 18 months old - and the OP never did tell us the outcome.
I've not split djpxk8's battery post into a new thread because it has been answered.

 

What about the yellow wire from the regulator?

"Instrument Pack Charge Indicator Circuit"?

 

When I was servicing my alternator I found the signal-loom to be in very poor condition.

Luckily it still works, but looks very bad. If it didn't go back properly, I would have spliced in a new Econoseal connector like this:

Econoseal 3 way waterproof male connector FREEPOST | eBay

Here's what mine looked like - cracked, dirty and wires looking very exposed on the rear