Left rear wheel 20X10 was returned by Dick at Coventry West late last week. He returned it squeaky clean barrel and all with a fresh stainless ring unmarred from shipping UPS ground thanks to his great care in packing. He probably used $10 or more in packaging material. The package weighed 53 lbs and cost about $60 for the round trip from Houston.

Dick pulled off the spider removing all of the titanium (titanium bolts? WTF?) studs but stripped the aluminum (aluminum?WTF?) air valve assembly in removing it. It took almost two weeks to get another from England but at least he was able to get it out without harming the wheel. He reports that the new air valve is stainless.

New Stainless Ring $270.00
New Stainless Air Valve 75.00
Labor 100.00
Shipping 60.00

Would I do it again? Only if I’m forced to and Dick Maury is still working for Coventry West. Would I try this myself? Probably not. Not only is the removal of the titanium studs problematic but they are expensive if you break or strip one. In addition the remaining aluminum air valves in the other three wheels present a real challenge to someone who’s never had much luck with the “easy out” tools. I’d hate to have to try that on a hollow aluminum valve insert. Dick didn’t say how much trouble it was but I can imagine his $100 labor fee was completely justified by the time he got done with it.

Bottom line, Dick and Coventry West did a great job for me. I do recommend them if you have an issue with the POS BBS two/three piece alloy wheels.

dick@coventrywest.com

Also…THE CLICK IS GONE! As I suspected, it must have been the damaged ring flexing and making that noise on every rotation of the wheel.

 

yay!!

 

I did this repair myself. It is nerve racking the first time I did it but by the grace of all that is good and holy, I managed to perform the ring swap successfully. It makes all the difference to use a torque wrench for this procedure.

 

Danster
Do you mean you used the torque wrench for reassembling the wheels? I've got the rings and I'm going to attempt this this winter when the cats in storage.
Doug
2001 XKR Silverstone

 

Thanks for the update...glad it went well!

 

Glad the click is gone. Just a couple of thoughts. When the wheels are assembled, loctite is used. Not sure how strong but it takes a two foot long 1/2" drive breaker bar to break the bolts loose. I put them back with blue loctite and torque them down to 12 lb/ft. The trick is to go back and forth and around about three times to make sure it is settled into place. Also, if you use any glue on reassembly, make sure it is not keeping the hub to wheel apart. Not sure why they use glue as the ring is securely held into place. Most likely, when initial assembly, the glue was separating the pieces or they were not torqued into place before the loctite set up. This would cause the bolts to appear tight but the halves would not be securely fastened allowing slight movement. Before anyone gets to paranoid, this is the first one that needed a new bolt or air valve fitting. They usually come out just fine although tight.

 

Are you heating up the rim before removing the bolts? Loctite red requires this plus any time you remove tight bolts a little heat always help.
I'll be replacing a trim ring this winter as well. I'll pay the $100 for the trouble.

 

I have taken 20" BBS wheels apart many times and never had a problem (touch wood)

As a little tip to keep costs down, what I do is contact many of the Jag breakers about and buy buckled or damaged wheels just for the spares, I have never paid more than $30 for a damaged wheel but the bolts are worth their weight in gold

 

RCSing,

I followed the procedure found here

http://forums.roadfly.com/forums/jag...8893108-1.html

you will need the torque wrench when assembling so you don't over tighten the bolts.

 

heat definitly helps alot with locktite, how much are the bolts going for? I have 2 wheels with damaged barrels. I currently use them as high dollar garden hose hangers, but if theyre worth it Ill take em apart

 

This thread is a little stale but I wanted to post here some information I found. I spoke to a large company in the US that does BBS wheel repair. They informed me that because they trim ring/ band is stainless steel, they can polish it in some cases rather than replace it. I confirmed this with BBS. They recommend that once its been polished that you clear coat it as that is the way it comes from the factory. If it is bent, thats another issue but scuffed can be an easy fix. There is currently a set on ebay (18's) that the rings have been "diamond polished". Search Jaguar BBS on ebay and you will see them. They look good.