Billionth Timing Chain Tensioners thread
The timing chains can stretch a little with use. Once you have the flats on the camshafts lined up you can check the timing with a straight edge, preferably a metal ruler, to see if they are in perfect alignment.
Because of valve spring pressure on the left side the flats will be slightly down between them. The right side will be very nearly in align. The chains do stretch a little and that's why the hold down clamps are a more precise way of aligning the cams. The zip tie method only puts them back the way they were, good or bad.
Don't be pessimistic, there is not that much chance of having a problem if you're careful. Even if one of the cams is off by a fraction, it will not run worse than it does now, and you won't have to worry about the tensioners. You can always plan on doing a more through job someday in the distant future when your financial situation is better.
It is really not difficult. You will spend more time getting the valve covers off than replacing the tensioners. Read everything, read it again, do the work and you will be posting advice next week.
Perhaps a 1/4" extension or two and a 1/4" drive universal joint would make access to a couple of the valve cover bolts a little easier.
Here are the part numbers:
Ford PN 2W9Z6K254BA Right Secondary metal bodied Tensioner (1 required)
Ford PN 2W9Z6K254CA Left Secondary metal bodied Tensioner (1 required)
Ford PN W500301S300 Bolt (4 required)
Here are the part numbers:
Ford PN 2W9Z6K254BA Right Secondary metal bodied Tensioner (1 required)
Ford PN 2W9Z6K254CA Left Secondary metal bodied Tensioner (1 required)
Ford PN W500301S300 Bolt (4 required)
You also need a new set of valve cover gaskets, and purchase the spark plug o rings.
There are 3 different valve cover gasket shapes for these engines i believe. You will need a bit of gasket smear stuff for the edges of the block.
make a point to take your time torquing the cam back down onto the valves, apparently the cams are brittle and if you break one you are up shoot creek
You have to take the valve covers and valve cover gaskets off to do the job so replacing the gaskets while you are in there makes sense. Trying to reuse them will likely lead to oil leaking from them fairly quickly. The spark plug seal replacement (O-rings) is the same logic. While you are there with the covers off it makes sense to replace them. Typically this would be less critical than the valve cover gasket itself but they are cheap and easy to replace so if you can, "just do it".
Last edited by Jacsun; Mar 2, 2013 at 01:51 PM.
Some members have reused the gaskets without leaks developing, but the odds aren't good. I think you can use the Ford set, which is not expensive, but someone with more experience should confirm.
If the gaskets are not leaking now, there is a good chance you can get away without them. Just clean them off and lubricate the mating face with a finger dabbed in oil. This lets the gasket squirm so that it can conform better when the fastener is tightened.
If you work really, really slow, cleaning everything and shuttle up and down an elevator to use the bathtub as a cleaning sink ... it might take 4 half days.
Treat each side as a separate 4 cylinder engine. Do one side completely before moving on to the other.
Don't forget to pull the shipping retainer pin on the tensioner that holds the piston in a retracted position.
The shorter bolts should be, if memory serves correctly ... 30mm. Test by threading them down finger tight. They should not bottom in the hole before torquing.
You do not have to undo the coil wiring. Just loosen all coils from plugs and pick them up like a handful of spaghetti ... lay on paper towel towards the rear of the engine. Don't close the hood unless you know that all coils are below the level of the hood.
If you work really, really slow, cleaning everything and shuttle up and down an elevator to use the bathtub as a cleaning sink ... it might take 4 half days.
Treat each side as a separate 4 cylinder engine. Do one side completely before moving on to the other.
Don't forget to pull the shipping retainer pin on the tensioner that holds the piston in a retracted position.
The shorter bolts should be, if memory serves correctly ... 30mm. Test by threading them down finger tight. They should not bottom in the hole before torquing.
You do not have to undo the coil wiring. Just loosen all coils from plugs and pick them up like a handful of spaghetti ... lay on paper towel towards the rear of the engine. Don't close the hood unless you know that all coils are below the level of the hood.







