I am going to remove both my rocker covers to see what type of chain tensioners are fitted and I was browsing through the JTIS to pick up a few pointers when I came accross a reference to placing the hood into the service position.
There wasn't any further explanation but it seemed to suggest that it is possible to improve the access to the front of the engine and I wonder if someone could explain what this might mean.

As an aside, I am running JTIS on my 2 year old laptop, running Windows 7, 64 bit, Home Version. Initially, I couldn't get it to work, but I now run it using Compatability Mode and it runs great on XP SP2 compatability setting.

Thanks,
Andy.

 

Andy,

That's probably just a very obscure way of saying 'open it'.

Graham

 

Actually you unhook your two gas struts and push the hood forward. You'll see a hole in the hinge mechanism that will allow a bolt or such to be inserted to stop the hood from falling back. Have a buddy help you and it puts the hood at about 90 degrees. I had the same question when I started my tensioners and was following the JTIS. I don't remember who it was but someone on the forum enlightened me.

 

Thanks guys. Graham, I've just checked in the manual and it says - Open the engine compartment and fit paintwork protection sheets. Open to the service position. - This is what made me think there must be a way of improving access.

Thanks itspec60. Is the hole you mention available on both sides or is just in one hinge mechanism?

Thanks, Andy.

 

Someone else provided these instructions, I committed the sin of copying them without attribution to the source. With that apology out of the way and acknowledging a little bit of editing...

The 'service setting' on the hood allows the hood to sit vertical on its hinges. To achieve this setting, first disconnect the gas struts at the hood by inserting a narrow screwdrive into the ball-ends of the struts... it is easy once you find the spring clip end which will back off about half way.



When one strut is removed and laid on the fender liner; you will need to support the hood with a prop rod, something like a section of broom handle will work fine. Alternatively, you can put a soft item about the size of a paper towel roll up near the windshield to rest the hood on (to prevent the hood from resting on the disconnected strut rod). When both struts are disconnected, the hood can be raised to the vertical position. When at the vertical, observe the hinge sections and note there is a hole which when a pin is inserted in this position will prevent the hinge from closing.

Any sort of pin, phillips screwdriver, etc. will suffice to lock the hinge sections in this position. I use a pair of 12mm 1" bolts w/nuts to slip through and secure. The hood seems a little flimsy at first, but it locks tightly into place. This position was designed for the Jag line mechanics. Although I would not do this if working outdoors in a strong wind!

Steve

 

The hole is in both hinge plates. I mentioned getting help to do this as one strut will not hold the hood up. You'll see where the hinge has pins holding the mechanism and one is empty. Push the hood up after releasing the struts and slip in a bolt to hold the hood from falling.

 

Thanks guys. I'll be working in my garage, so I won't be worrying about a gale of wind. I've been looking at the front of the engine for a few weeks now and have been pondering on how to get to everything without removing the bonnet. I'm not the smallest guy in the world, so this will help a lot.
Thanks again,

Andy

 

When doing mine, after removing the struts, i take one strut, wrap rags round each end of it, compress it a bit and wedge it on the passenger side (for a UK car), between the bottom of the fuse box housing and one of the bonnets underside ridgesnear the outside edge of the bonnet.

The picture was taken early in the process, before i got the idea to use rags at each end.

 

And what is the purpose of this? Do you do this until you put the pin(s) in at the hinges in order to support it in the meantime?

Doug

 

Andy,

Clearly from other replies this is an accepted procedure.

However, I must be more agile than I thought.

Never found the slightest inconvenience changing Cam Cover Seals / various cooling hoses / Thermostat / Water Pump with the bonnet in the regular raised position.

The only time I'd think of an alternative is for Tensioners / Chains, Cylinder head or Engine removal and then the bonnet would come off first.

Graham

 

You'd be surprised how much room you gain by putting it in the 'service' position... its like changing chlothes while standing inside a small closet, then allowed to do it in the bedoorm instead (ok, slight exaggeration, but it feels significant, nonetheless)

 

No, i've only just found out that a locking pin existed as a result of this thread.
Once i got to the point of needing access to the crank pulley and front cover, opening the bonnet with the struts in place didn't provide enough access, so the strut position in the picture became my solution.

It's worked fine so far, and hasn't damaged anything.

I also have to work in the open air, and although i haven't tried working in a gale, i've worked in moderately windy conditions, and it doesn't move.

I did notice that there may be points in the hinge that i could use to jam something in, but in the event of a strong wind, the weight of the bonnet, if pushed, would apply a lot of leverage to the hinges.

So the strut supports it further up. Keeps it nice and stable.