With a slight wiring harness meltdown in the trunk of my new toy (2006 is new to me), I've been dealing with lots of problems including brake light issues with all the related faults. From what I'd read, it seemed prudent to replace the brake light switches whether or not they were an issue. Afterwards, I ran across the subject of the ratchet mechanism and so yanked out the switch to study this animal. It came out a whole lot easier this second time around... didn't bother pulling the seat and removed it by feel without looking at it. Took about 5 minutes.

After spending hours searching, I cannot find any documentation on its intended function and adjustment. Correct me if I'm wrong, but it appears it goes in collapsed and one is supposed to reach under the dash to set the ratchet.

One problem seems to be my ratchet is so weak, it snaps completely back on itself before the white lever assembly rotates back. I can rectify that easily enough.

I've taken some pictures and am willing to share my experience, but don't want to spread misinformation based on premature assumptions.

 

I would LOVE to see a few photos... No play'n hard to get here, lol, this ain't a dating site hahahaha

 

Inasmuch as there’s been no feedback one way or the other, I’m going to stick my neck out and describe my evaluation and subsequent installation/resetting of the brake light switch.

NOTE: SWITCH SHOULD NOT HAVE TO BE REMOVED TO RESET, (nor front seat).

Image 1 is the condition of the switch as it came out from under the dash, fully depressed. Knife points to the wide gap. The brake lights were lighting up fine when the pedal was depressed but maybe not up to proper specification as it would not shift out of park. I hadn’t reset it after replacing the switches so it came out for examination but it didn’t have to be removed for resetting. One fingertip would've done the trick.

Image 2 shows the ratchet overextended and no gap. Note the white stop tab at the tip of the knife. It should come to rest on the notch to the right, as shown in image 1. In this situation, the lights would be on full time when the ignition is switched on. To rectify this issue, move the pedal forward for access to the notch, depress the ratchet back until it is fully collapsed, then push it forward as pointed out in image 3 to zero gap. It will selfadjust when pedal is released.

Maybe I’m overly critical, but I did not like how easily the ratchet collapsed before swinging very far. I tightened the ratchet so it was stiffer, but now see it likely wouldn’t have made much difference in my installation. Note the wire spring inside the ratchet forming a V; both legs of the V are held in place with tabs. Image 4 shows the one wire held down with 2 tabs. Image 5 shows how the end was move out and on top of the tab, holding the ratchet together tighter. After examining my newly reinstalled switch, it is apparent the mechanism is very close to, if not completely collapsed, so a weaker ratchet likely wouldn’t have created any significant error in adjustment.

Right or wrong, this was my procedure for reinstalling and setting the brake light switch…

(notice the seat is not removed)

switch’s white ratchet lever was pushed in by finger fully depressed as shown in image 1;

Battery was reconnected since it had been disconnected for wiring repairs;

engine started (so pedal would depress farther/easier) and stick inserted to hold brake pedal down, then engine shut off;

battery disconnected to shut the light off under the dash as it was a nuisance;

with switch in one hand and flashlight in the other, I had to peek up under dash to locate the pin for the notched end of switch;

slid notch onto pin and then slipped the other end over the stud;

stick removed to let the pedal swing back;

ripped out a 1” square from plastic bag, folded it over double and jammed it into the 1/4” drive 8mm socket with the nut so the nut wouldn’t fall out;

using socket on long ¼” extension, the nut was slipped behind the brake pedal and started onto the stud;

ratchet then was used to finish tightening the nut;

battery hooked up, engine started, stick shoved back in to hold peal down, engine shut off;

with fingers following the wire up to the switch, the notch was locate and the ratchet was pushed forward with finger tip, image 5;

stick was released, pedal moved back and the ratchet could be heard closing up, selfadjusting;

wires reconnected.



White spring loaded ratchet mechanism as switch actuator, in fully compressed condition.


overextended ratchet, note closed gap but more importantly, the white stop tab is not resting against the notch to the right. Switches would indicate "brakes on" full time


view of ratchet mechanism indicating direction that it will be pushed after installation


Spring wire (upper wire) held in with two tabs (first 2 images show all 3 tabs clearer)


spring wire pushed out, up and over outer tab for tighter ratchet.


Now, not only do the brake lights come on normally, IT COMES OUT OF PARK, TOO! It’s a miracle!!!

 

Jnrsr,

Great pics and good description. Thanks for taking the time and effort to post your findings.

So glad you were the one to find this car and saving it. Only a few people would have had the time and skills to DIY troubleshoot your problems. Well done on resolving it.

Let us know how you get on. Keep posting on your individual problems, and I for one will be interested in your “save.”

 

Super well done and much appreciated!!! I think (but hope not) this is going to come into good use figuring out my 'stuck in P' situation with my flood rescue insanity, lol...

Thank you so much.