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I uploaded my .pdf copy of Repair Course 168 instead of my 180 because the 168 includes the V6 engine. Gus has it on his site.
When I worked at the dealer, I often answered the phone on the wall (ext 140 I believe) and repeatedly advised other local shops that the engine was NOT timed at TDC. The dealer operator would direct the call to the service phone in the shop.
They would call and tell me that they set the #1 piston at TDC and THEN locate the cam flats (45 degrees after TDC) and then whine about how the engine would not start but sputtered and backfired after assembling the crank/cam chains.
Maybe 100 years of ingrained 'timing at TDC' is causing confusion???????
Old habits are hard to break, but nobody wants to read and follow instructions. (the old "don't tell me how build an engine, I've been doing it for years!")
This is why Jaguar has training courses for dealer techs!!!!
Quick Cheap and Easy way to hold damper for removal.
Your right old habits die hard. I had read about how the crank is not set at TDC but old terminology dies even harder. Thanks for the link on timing marks underneath I wasn't quite grasping what you guys were saying about that. So through the spot I popped out the rubber plug I will be able to see a triangle as the hole were I removed the crank sensor will become visible. Then I put in the locking tool in place of the crank sensor to hold the crank in place.
I used a couple strategically placed pry bars and some help to remove the crank bolt being careful not to rotate the engine the wrong way. Taking our time we were able to remove the bolt without issue. Your guys method would have been better. I did look through the manual I downloaded and was able to find page 26 which someone had mentioned but didn't see 74. Maybe I was in the wrong section.
My students and I pulled the pan and there were only a couple of bigger pieces of the guides on the screen. BobRoy is sending me the gear to fix the chains.....much thanks. Hopefully the stuff will get here before or during the holidays so when we get back we can put this Jaguar back together. Tomorrow I'm going to turn the engine over until I see the triangle and wait for the tool.
[QUOTE=faSStcars;1990523]My students and I pulled the pan and there were only a couple of bigger pieces of the guides on the screen.
All this detritus came from my 98 XK8 NA. I removed the two fasteners holding on the oil pickup tube, washed out bits with dish soap, shaking thoroughly to loosen chunks. Dried. Cleaned pan.
I thought I would give you guys an update. I was waiting on the parts and tools to arrive from BobRoy. Thanks again man I really appreciate it!! The drivers side is going together pretty easily ha ha. On the intake cam there wasn't enough room to slide the chain in so I had to loosen the cam. If I don't take the VVT sprocket off the intake cams they should be timed still right when I put everything back together right? Everything currently is locked in place with the kit BobRoy is letting me borrow.
It's wise to follow the instructions in the Engine Course for assembly of the primary and secondary timing chains. Make sure the VVT units are FULLY RETARDED whilst tightening the camshaft sprocket bolts or the engine will not run correctly with resulting DTCs.
The procedure is on page 75 of the Engine Course PDF; page 27 of the course.
Ok. I read through it before so let me see if I understand this correctly.
For the exhaust cam. I'm holding pressure on the exhaust cam using the JD217 tool in a counter clockwise position. Then torque. The intake side is what I'm quite sure about. The book says one to two wedges which doesn't sound very exact. How do you know if you need one or two wedges? So I'm putting the wedges between the tensioner and the guide which would also seem to pull the intake gear counter clockwise like the exhaust. Then torque with the wedges in place.
I get what it's saying. With the cams locked in place I'm basically retiming the VVT in place at a certain preload. With the locking bars in place what is the idea behind torquing the exhaust cam? The cam shouldn't move.
Well I got everything together and started the Jaguar and I guess I'm not one of the lucky ones getting away with a chain replacement. It was running a little rough so I ran a compression check and the drivers side that broke the chain to the exhaust cam went like this. First cylinder 0 2nd 85 3rd 100 and the 4th 115. The passenger side chain that had skipped was around 115 on all cylinders. A little bummed. I'm trying to decide what direction to go next......I finished up with my students on the diag and didn't really have a chance to check the guide. What kind of a job is it to pull the drivers head both time wise and any short cuts. Or would I be better off replacing the engine? Looking into the engine before I started the chains I didn't see any piston damage and the drivers side did have compression but the exhaust cam was stationary. I'm guess the valves are bent but probably only slightly.
If you're using this as a training format for your students, it may be best to remove the LH cylinder head and repair the damage. Before doing that, use a bore scope to inspect the cylinder and see if there is evidence of valve impact on the crown of the piston.
Removing the LH cylinder head is relatively straightforward once the timing chains have been removed. Refer to the Engine Course for procedure and torque specifications. In addition, use new cylinder head bolts during reassembly.
I did use the bore scope and didn't see any damage to the piston that's why I'm thinking it's a couple slightly bent valves. That was also why I went ahead with the chains but I couldn't see the valves very clearly.
What would you think time wise after the chains are removed? I just wanted to make sure I wasn't going to run into anything crazy different over pulling a head off another car.
Once the primary and secondary timing chains are removed, to remove the inlet and exhaust manifolds and other parts would take roughly two hours depending on the condition of the fasteners. Be careful with the plastic lines as they tend to become quite brittle.
I'm glad you brought up the brittleness of the components. About all the clips on the coils packs broke because they are so brittle. Are these harnesses serviceable or do you have to replace the whole harness. I'm not putting the covers back on the coils to help release some heat.
Jaguar warranty time for LH cylinder head gasket was 8.70 Hours. REAL WORLD time would be 13 or 14 hours PLUS cylinder head repair.
You MIGHT get by with valve replacement and lap the new valve(s).
I would leave the exhaust manifold on the head unless it needs to go to a machine shop.
FEL-PRO ES72262 {#GS33527} head bolts work just fine.
bob
Last edited by motorcarman; 12-03-2018 at 07:19 PM.
Well I was hoping it wouldn't take so long. I guess we will see. I only have some of these students in 1.5 blocks so that is a lot of class time to pull the head. We might be staying after school ;-)
If you have one person crack the bolts and another using an electric ratchet or gun it will go waaaay faster.I can remove a head in about 2 hours. (in reality 1.99 hours is for removing everything EXCEPT the head.
Quick update: The drivers head is off and we did it mostly during one class period with about an hour after school. Looked good actually. I didn't see any contact to the piston but the two exhaust vales on the number one cylinder were slightly bent and barely sticking up. Since I didn't have great compression readings on two of the other cylinders I'm guessing when the head goes to the machine shop tomorrow. they will find more bent valves that I can't see. I was out of time and had to head out so I will take a closer look at it tomorrow.
Since I'm this deep in should I pull the other head? The compression readings were around 115 on all cylinders except one which was 110. The passenger side didn't have a broken chain but the tensioner on the primary chain had collapsed so I think the chain may have jumped but I'm not sure. It was making like a clicking sound.
11-15-2018, 08:20 PM
