Hello,
Looking at a very nice 2001 XK8 with clean history. Quick questions:
-I assume the Nikisill issue was resolved by 2001 model year?
-I remember (I hope) that a retro designed chain tensioner was developed. Would that have been done by model year 2001
-I assume that at some point near 100K miles, the tensioner needs to be replaced. Estimated cost of that little job.

Thanks very much!

 

Actually, after having looked at some other threads, it appears I should just buy an 03 or newer. How does that sound? Seems like the Nikisil liner and chain tensioner issues are handled in the new engine, as well as the new 6 speed trans.

Make sense?

Thanks

 

By '03 the Nikasil, tensioner, water pump, etc., etc., etc., issues had been resolved and leaves you with a reliable vehicle that is a bargain in the marketplace.

For the money an '03 up is a better buy . . . unless you can steal an earlier one.

Through '02 these cars are best owned by hobby mechanics.

Great cars!

 

Just had the upper and lower tensioners and timing chains changed on my 2002 XKR (so, obviously 2001 still had plastic tensioners). I bought the full kit from Christopher's and it included everything, upper and lower tensioners, chains, bolts, gaskets...It was about $700, and installation was about $800.00 Car had about 104,000 miles on it. I was able to "steal" a near mint 2002 almost 3 years ago with 60K miles on it for about $15,000, so I was willing to do what I needed to do. I have put 50,000 miles on it since. If you can find a great pre-2003 with a complete service history at a great price, don't be afraid. Just figure the tensioner replacement price (if it hasn't already been done) in the cost of the earlier cars and see if it's worth it compared to the 2003+.

 

The 2001 that I am looking at is a sourther car, with 70K miles and look sweet with a complete history. Price is $9900.
I
I think I might buy it and simply do the tensioner right away and get the tranny serviced as well. The only concern is the Nikosil liners. Am I worrying over nothing?

 

That car may not have the nikosil engine since it is 2001. Gus has a write up at JagRepair.com - Jaguar Repair Information Resource that gives the info on how to tell. Engine cutoff was in 2000, but some 2001 cars still have them. Check it out and maybe you'll be fine.

 

A good Nikasil Engine will outlast a sleeved one.

 

^ this. A Nikasil engine that was never exposed to high sulfur content fuel isn't a problem. It's a benefit.

 

If you do find one with a Nikasil engine and it hasn't needed cylinder liners by now, the engine will very likely outlive the remainder of the vehicle.

Early plastic tensioners kill more Jaguar V8's than Nikasil ever did.

Graham

 

Before buying get the engine number, not the VIN.
This thread explains when plastic tensioners stopped.
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...r-dates-75862/

 

Make sure you get a pre-purchase inspection done by a qualified Jag mechanic and go look at the car. Do not buy it sight unseen as some have done on this forum.

I had quite a few cars checked out across the country before I bought mine. I discovered quite a few wrecks/dogs described as "mint."
Vector

 

Thanks. Great advice.

One more thing to make sure I have this right: On an 2001, if I replace the tensioners, will these still be plastic or is the replacement kit made of metal?

Thanks

 

Replacements are metal. Use 2001 Lincoln LS parts, identical and much cheaper.

 

$3,300 for all tensioners replaced by the dealer!
Use this as a bargaining tool if they haven't been done, they're going to need it.
Check out the head liner too. It's about time for them to start falling.
Don't forget dash and J gate lights while in a dark garage, hard to check in the day light.
Don't have the inspection done at the dealer where the owner takes it and may buy their next car. They tend to be a little partial, I speak from experience.

 

Wow, that is a ton of money for tensioners. Am I better off simply looking for an 2003?

 

That figure of $3,300 is for a dealer supply and fit.

Bill is suggesting you use this figure as a bargaining tool to reduce the vehicle cost and not as a preferred approach to getting the tensioners replaced!

I had a 2001 4.0 litre and now have a Final Series 4.2. On balance I prefer the 4.2 but be aware there is a lot more to go wrong with them in the way of more complex electronics. A 4.2 is not a guarantee of total reliability.

Graham

 

Tensioner replacement is $200 DIY, $800 including parts at an independent, $1200 at a dealer. Few cars need the primary tensioners replaced, especially low mileage vehicles.

 

That is a lot of money for the tensioner job. That's lesson #1 on these cars: avoid the dealer. To make an XK8/R a pleasant ownership experience you either need to be able to do basic DIY repair or find a decent indie shop that you trust. Otherwise, it could be a very bad cost per mile ratio.

OBTW, it's really the secondary tensioners that are a problem. These can be replaced for much less and is a weekend DIY project if you have basic mechanic skills.

Lastly, I would agree with the consensus: the later year cars have many (not all) of the problems resolved. And the 2002 MY and back are all 10 years old or more, so factor that in. However, I have a 2001 and after a bit of sorting out, it has been a very reliable car overall. I love it and do not regret the purchase.

 

Thanks again guys, I am going to visit my local indy Jag repair shop today and chat.

 

Just got engine #-Built in March of 2001. Looks like it is NOT a nikisil engine.

Cool.