Cam cover removal advice
Hi,
I need to remove the cam covers to see what tensioners I have on my 1999 XKR which I was going to do tomorrow but before I do I have a few questions:
Do I need to change the gaskets too while I am in there?
When tightening the bolts back up do they need to be torqued?
I read the brass inserts the bolts go in to can pop out, can this be avoided and are they easy enough to put back in?
Any advice on this while I'm doing the job would be most appreciated.
Thanks in advance.
I need to remove the cam covers to see what tensioners I have on my 1999 XKR which I was going to do tomorrow but before I do I have a few questions:
Do I need to change the gaskets too while I am in there?
When tightening the bolts back up do they need to be torqued?
I read the brass inserts the bolts go in to can pop out, can this be avoided and are they easy enough to put back in?
Any advice on this while I'm doing the job would be most appreciated.
Thanks in advance.
Go for the right side cam cover (the left is a bigger pain because of the oil stick).
Just remove the air filter hosing and the air intake tube.
I reused the gasket on mine when I did the same thing, and no I did not torque it, just tighten with a feeling :-)
I would recommend original valve cover gasket from Jaguar if you later has to change your tensioners. I bought some aftermarked ones that was a PITA
Just remove the air filter hosing and the air intake tube.
I reused the gasket on mine when I did the same thing, and no I did not torque it, just tighten with a feeling :-)
I would recommend original valve cover gasket from Jaguar if you later has to change your tensioners. I bought some aftermarked ones that was a PITA
Hi,
+1 on doing the RHS cover first - you won't have to fight the dipstick tube.
I would, but don't be surprised if you get weeps afterwards if not. If the gasket has gone hard, then definitely change it. Worth checking that there's no oil in the spark plug wells 'while you're in there'. Change the plug seals if there is. Consider also the 28 (14 each side) rubber isolator washers as they are key to clamping down the cam cover and getting a good seal.
I always torque. 9Nm for the cam cover, 4Nm for the coil cover. You can just nip them up, but gently - no need for the breaker bar here
Yeah, not the world's best idea. If any do, then clean them and the vacated holes with isopropyl - or raw fuel - and smear some high-temp epoxy around the serrations (I used JB Weld), then press them back into the cover and leave to cure.
A 1/4" drive set will help as some of the bolts at the rear are quite difficult to get to, and nothing should be tight.
Make sure that the one bolt that is not captive in its spacer (it is a slightly different colour to the rest) goes back in the uppermost rear position.
+1 on doing the RHS cover first - you won't have to fight the dipstick tube.
I would, but don't be surprised if you get weeps afterwards if not. If the gasket has gone hard, then definitely change it. Worth checking that there's no oil in the spark plug wells 'while you're in there'. Change the plug seals if there is. Consider also the 28 (14 each side) rubber isolator washers as they are key to clamping down the cam cover and getting a good seal.
I always torque. 9Nm for the cam cover, 4Nm for the coil cover. You can just nip them up, but gently - no need for the breaker bar here

A 1/4" drive set will help as some of the bolts at the rear are quite difficult to get to, and nothing should be tight.
Make sure that the one bolt that is not captive in its spacer (it is a slightly different colour to the rest) goes back in the uppermost rear position.
Last edited by michaelh; Oct 9, 2021 at 08:50 PM. Reason: spelling
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