Either way you made it available in the FAQ's for everyone to reference EZDriver. And simple solutions like that make jobs so much easier.

There's an article with pictures on the primaries and tensioners on JagRepair.com, that i've downloaded, which also explains the use of a "prybar" somewhere under the gearbox/engine to lock the crankshaft (or maybe the camshafts) when removing either the crank pulley or exhaust cam, because sometimes the camshaft locking tools aren't enough to prevent the camshafts moving.
No picture on exactly where the prybar is placed though, which is a shame, because somone else had the same problem as i'm facing of not being able to locate exactly where to put it to lock the camshafts/crank in position.
When i get more time i'll look through it again to provide a better explanation.
Have to go to work now.
Camshaft lockers arrived today
PaulJ thanks for the PM, i'll be in touch.

 

OK, sorted my onions out a bit.
The prybar locks the crankshaft, NOT the camshaft, and is apparently located in the bottom of the torque converter housing behind an access plate which needs to be removed first.

Someone please correct me if i'm wrong there for the benefit of myself and others.

For UK owners at least, all the "special tools" needed for the job can be hired from JEC, (subject to membership first at £41 a year) for £70 for a weeks hire, aka PaulJ's post earlier, which was spot on.

Thankyou again PaulJ, and EZDriver, and everybody else that posted.

 

Hi all,
The removal of the pulley has stopped me doing primary tensioners. My understanding is that no locking tools for cams or pins for locking torque converter should be used to lock the crankshaft when undoing the crank pulley bolt. if these are fitted and used it can damage chains, stretch chains or even damage crankshaft leading to loss of timming.
The crankshaft pulley has to be held/locked on its own to undo pulley bolt. then the locking tools fitted after the bolt has been undone to set or lock timming of engine. Hope this helps, ive yet to work out how to lock the pulley independantly.

best wishes

steven

 

The locking tool you can buy or hire bolts to the front of the crankshaft pulley it's a long lever that wedges against the ground or a plate so as you put pressure on the pulley bolt it wedges against the ground and stops crankshaft turning. No strain on chains or valve gear . You only put camshaft and crankshaft locking tools once you have bolt off.

 

Steve and Paul are both on the money, the hole in the torque convertor hsg is for alignment purposes when setting the timing and should never be used for locking while undoing the pulley nut.

 

If and when you need the other timing tools, just let me know, and you can use mine. Sorry i only read this thread today.

 

Re locking the torque converter.
In theory if you use the locking tool on pulley shouldn't need to lock the torque converter. However when I refitted the bolt it was such a tight fit in the crankshaft that the bolt turned the crankshaft while the pulley stayed stil. So I had to lock the crankshaft . Spent some time trying to work out this plate but think as have an xkr it is different so I did find a way to lock it to tighten bolt up enough so the pulley stopped slipping. I assume the xk8 have a separate access point as only one on XKR i could find its is where the locking plug goes in. I didn't use the plug, I locked it another way with a bar.

 

I was trying to find this place to locate a prybar as a back up in case the pulley locker wasn't enough, or i couldn't put enough pressure on the bolt with one hand, while holding the handle of the pulley locker with the other hand.
The article in the FAQ's on primary chain replacement (for an XJ8) does mention the availability of a special tool (the pulley locker), but the guy that did the job said he used the prybar instead because he didn't want to buy the tool.
Seems he was lucky not to break or strip any teeth off the driveplate.

The JTIS also mentions the use of a prybar against ONE torque converter boss if extra crankshaft locking is necessary, despite the use of the special tool.
ONE converter boss suggests there are at least 2 converter bosses, and an internet search has not revealed what a converter boss is.
I only found one access plate diagram/reference in the JTIS, and assumed that with this plate removed, the prybar was wedged between the teeth of the driveplate.
PaulJ has explained that the handle on the crankshaft pulley locking tool (pulley locker) is long enough to wedge against the ground (or maybe put a trolley jack under the handle to hold it). but he's also explained that this tool was not enough to lock the crank when refitting the bolt (and the JTIS explains the possible need for extra crankshaft locking), so i'm still desperately trying to be certain exactly how to lock the crank if the pulley locker doesn't work, given that i cannot use the crankshaft setting tool (in the crank position sensor hole) under anycircumstances until AFTER the pulley is off, or while refitting the pulley bolt.

My other uncertainty is what to do if the camshafts start creeping when trying to remove the exhaust sprocket bolts (next to the secondary tensioners), because these bolts require quite a bit of force as well, and i can't tighten down the camshaft locking tools too tight because the bolts sit in the aluminium head.
If the camshafts start moving, does that mean the crankshaft is moving as well?
And vice versa?

X100 that's a very generous offer and is much appreciated.
I'll think seriously about that one.
You guys must be hating these silly questions by now.

 

Motorcarman (Bob Gauff) has mentioned a few times that he uses a chain wrench on the pulley to hold it.

 

Roadhogg The camshaft locking tool clamps onto flats on the camshaft so it can't move and the bolt thread is long so they can be tightened done to a reasonable torque.

 

Thanks Norri, i had a look at some chain wrenches, and they must rate at the safest method, but can work out quite expensive unless i can hire one.
Since the JTIS recommends locking the driveplate, but only in conjunction with the pulley tool, and only if the pulley tool is not quite enough, i'll mull over my options.
Thanks PaulJ, i realised after i posted the question that in H20Boy's article in the FAQ's, (the same one you pointed me to in PM) he was trying to get away with using just one camshaft locking tool, and it was the camshaft that wasn't locked down that was creeping.
So with both locked down i should be ok.

 

On cars where I can't fit an air wrench I wedge a breaker bar against the frame or floor and use the starter to break crankshaft bolts loose. Of course, you must first disable the engine from being able to start (you'll have to remove the ignition coils to do the job anyway) and take precautions to not allow the bar to fly off and strike anything important - the radiator, etc. Proceed at your own risk.

 

Not sure i'd be brave enough to try that one Beav, unless all else failed.

But if all else DOES fail, it's nice to know that option exists.