Drove to upstate to make the final arrangenments for my father in laws funneral and had to drive in heavy rains all day. We made several stops with no problems. When leaving for the return trip home car stated fine and then went crazy. Restricted performance, gear box and abs. Reset the codes, did not help. Did a hard boot car was fine for 1/2 mile. Stopped and restarted and she went about a mile. Did this several times and the distance increased. I left the cat a family members house and we are heading that way in the morning. (About 100 miles). Almost forgot windows are not reseting, the boot is unlock as well as the gas cap. I feel as if moisture is creating the problem. Any assistance would be greatly appreciated. Thanks Jim

 

sorry about the typos have been going on very little sleep for the last few days.

 

Sorry about your loss.

If the windows refuse to hold a reset the arrows are pointing toward the battery.

 

Would that also cause restricted performance, gear box fault? Had restricted performance when a coil went out but still had limited power. Now when it sets she will only idle. When I pull over and turn the car off, let it set for a few minutes, then restart everything clears.

 

Will check the battery with the scanner, I do hope that will solve the problem.

 

You should use a multimeter to check the voltage at the battery terminals after the car has been off for a few hours. If it is under 12.3-12.4 it should be replaced. Also Advance or Autozone can do a proper loaded battery test for you for free.

Once you know you have a good battery, clear the codes and see which new ones pop up with your scanner. The voltage read by the scanner is not a relaible way to check battery condition bacause it's reading is effected by other electrical loads in the car.

 

If the battery is good, make sure that battery cables are also in good shape, and that the bolts going to the high power fuses at the rear of the trunk near the spare tire are tight.

 

Thanks I will take my meter with me in the morning. Jim

 

Almost certainly a battery problem as Steve says but check your serpentine belt (alternator drive) is OK - heavy rain may have made it slip.
If the alternator's OK you should see at least 14 V on the battery with the engine running.

 

I also have had issues in the rain on my XKR with a good battery. It was 3 sparkplug wells with water in them. The water would come in from the bonnet louvers. It was only showing a code for #2 misfire. The coil cover gaskets were in perfect shape, and the wiring was correctly installed. However the brass inserts that the coil covers attach to were pulling out allowing water under the covers. I yanked the offending inserts by putting the bolt back in and pulling, cleaned the bores/inserts with alcohol and then used superglue to reseat the brass inserts in the plastic valve cover and made sure they were all flush. Then I put a dieelectric grease inside all the spark plug boots, the coil wires and the cover gaskets. Another place to seal with this grease is the mass air flow sensor wiring connection.
Back to the battery issue, my wife drives a 3.0 S Type that experienced this. 12.3 volts made it go nuts. Look out for the vent hose that routes the batt gas outside the car or you will have corrosion issues compounding other problems.

 

Keep an eye on those brass inserts, as Superglue may not hold up under the rigors of thermal cycling and vibration of the engine.

If you have to do it again use JB Weld (regular, not quickset) 2-part epoxy for a more permanent repair.

 

So sorry for your loss.

I got concerned about moisture when we drove 3700 miles thorugh New England+ in October with rain almost every day. Only two issues surfaced, though: some condensation in the headlights a couple times and "rust" marks on the roof liner near the rear window. Car ran great. Battery was seven months old.

Hope it's just the battery for you.

 

Moisture from the rain can cause high resistance on dirty battery terminals. Take both negative and positive off and clean. Take the negative off first before the positive and replace the negative last.
You can check voltage on the battery posts and then again on the cables which may show the loss due to corrosion.
In an emergency (side of the road) tapping the terminals can restore continuity on a temporary basis.

 

The meter was reading 12.34 and after starting the car i was getting 14 volts so I have ruled out the battery. Drove the around for 20 minutes with no issues. So I decide to drive it home. 20 minutes later restricted performance, pulled over turn off the ignition and the restricted performance clear. This happened 3 times. Then drove 85 miles HOME without a problem. I have not had a chance to check to see what codes are showing now. At lease I have the old girl home and can start the process of determining what is going on. She did show a misfire on #6 which I do find interesting because this is the coil that I changed out last year. Will let you know what i find in the morning. Thanks again for all your help. Jim

 

It was possibly belt slippage > flat battery which has now recharged.
Marc noted 12.3V was low enough to cause problems (probably because the voltage actually dropped lower than that when load came on (a/c or lights)).
I'd still follow the other Steve's advice and get a free load test done - it can't hurt.
Do post any codes you get.

 

The 12.3 volts on my S Type was static volts. When the car was running idling it showed 14 volts, a/c on. The car would die out, but re-start easily. It would also misfire. You could hear it wasn't running right. After a quick load test and a re-charge, the battery could not hold 12.4 volts. I hated to buy a new battery because the starter spun the engine so easily, I replaced the battery and that was it. Almost 2 years and it's still fine.
It wasn't 2 weeks later, my XKR battery just died parked in the garage. I wasn't even cranking it. I was trying to get into the boot. It didn't have enough juice to open the trunk. That one was a no brainer. It wouldn't take a charge at all.
I know some don't want to hear this, but I have had excellent results with the Auto Zone Duralast batteries. I have a lot more than just these 2 Jags in my garage. Everything except the Harley and the Hondas get AZ batts. Word to the wise: if you want your batteries to last at least the warranty period, you have to recharge them once a month to prevent suflation, especially in cold weather. If that battery ever freezes, you might see a bulge in the side of the case. Expect a short life.

 

Merry Christmas to all. I final had a change to check the codes and 3 are showing.
1. P0356 ignition coil F Primary/secondary circuit malfunction
2. P1121
3. P1000

I tried to find the code listings in the stickys but have not had any luck.
I did find the battery receipt from the previous owner and it was replaced in 2008 so I will be having it load tested tomorrow when stores reopen due to the holidays. Any help with the codes would be appreciated. Thanks Jim

 

I am also planning on replacing the plugs to see if moisture could be an issue, still concerned about the # 6 coil code that was set when the problems started.

 

Jim - 1121 is PPS circuit range - possible causes: accelerator pedal to pedal position sensor cable adjustment incorrect; pedal position sensor to ecm fault; sensor power supply fault; sensor failure

1000 - system checks not complete since last memory clear

 

Thanks Steve can you tell me the location of the senser? With all the rain and water that I drove thru i would llike to do a plug and play. Jim