For the past couple weeks the CEL light has come on fairly regularly after start up, so have hooked up the OBD reader to get the applicable code. Only thing is, there is no code. Reader states 1 fault and 1 pending, with the first being N/A and the second P1000. So what is that telling me? I erase the 'code' and the CEL clears on an outward journey. Start up to come home, and it's back. Check the OBD agsin and it states the same as last time.

Battery is on trickle feed 364 days but is 4 years old No other signs of possible low battery output - ie windows not lifting when door closed.

Don't want to spend lots taking to a dealer if I can help it, so any advice greatly received.

Jules

 

I would borrow a battery and do the same drive duration. It's free and a 4 yr old battery is suspect.

 

I think it's telling you to get a better (working) OBD tool. If the MIL is on there's a code. Definitely.

 

The reader is a hard wire U480 CAN OBDII memo scanner. Has given spot on readings on all my cars for years.

I'm thinking more and more it's a battery issue, but nothing else is suggesting there is a problem with the output it's giving to the workings of the car.

Maybe I'm just hoping though...

 

If the windows are not lifting your battery is going low enough to loose memory.
What is the standing voltage reading after you unplug the charger for 10 minutes.
If not in the 12.6 or higher range, problem. I took a newer one in for a replacement and because it was 12.3 they said it was fine. After I explained about a Jaguar not being happy with that, I was almost laughed out of there. They no longer have my business.

Wayne

 

Just test battery and reading was 12.65 and 14.25 when engine running, so nothing apparently wrong there. Which is a worry, as its probably going to be something more expensive to fix!


Phone call to garage Monday...

 

Would it be worth at this point to do a hard reset incase its just some glitch in the ECM?

 

Redeye, your test proved the alternator was in good shape. Let it set overnight with out the charger on, then see what you have.
Lots of us have solved battery related problems by cleaning all the ground connections, have a look on Gus's site for locations.

 

Just a double check on code reader I would suggest allowing to store code and go by the autoparts store or auto shop and have them read the codes. Since ODBII was introduced I have never had a light without a code. Of course we are talking about a JAG
Be sure to let us know what you find in the end....

 

Unless someone rewired the lamp there's a code but you just don't yet know what it is. Really.

 

Wise words, as there was indeed a code! A P0037 HO2S Heater Control Circuit Low (Bank 1, Sensor 2) code appeared on a Bluetooth OBD2 scanner ive just bought along with the app for my android device (still nothing appears on the hardwire one).


Ive done a reset using the Bluetooth scanner and have just done a few miles round the area with a couple of stop/starts. Its not come back (yet), but will monitor over the next few days. I wont take to garage unless (until?!) it does.


Thanks again to those that gave advice & suggestions.

 

You could change the sensor - DIY for many

 

Going to give this a go myself. How do you know if it is an Upstream or Downstream sensor that's required? P0037 is the code for HO2S Heater Control Circuit Low (Bank 1, Sensor 2) but that's all I know. Is Sensor 2 the downstream one? And do I need to order a pair?


Thanks in advance...

 

Downstream, yes. Should be OK to change just the bad one. (It might be wiring/etc, of course.)

 

It is the downstream sensor, driver side for you.

I changed mine recently. Make sure you get the right part#. I got the DENSO 234-4798. FWIW, I believe DENSO is the correct OEM part for this car, so as long as you stick with the DENSO number, it pays to shop around. I bought mine from eBay.

It is a pain to get to. You can see it from the top. It is on the cat body. There is hardly any room to get to it. I ended up dropping the cat itself, which requires unbolting the exhaust flanges on both the passenger and driver sides for slack, as well as unbolting from the header. On the older cars, you can reputedly use drain holes for the air conditioning system to reach the sensors from inside the foot well, through some opening normally plugged with rubber grommets. No sure on our newer cars. Of course you can try your luck with a O2 socket and a set of long extensions. The space available for a breaker bar is way back halfway up the transmission. By then, you may realize the socket is slipping, and you need to come up with another plan. The "commitment" plan is to cut the wire off, and use a normal socket, I suppose.

Another thing you might want to do is to check the wiring. It is unlikely not to be the sensor, but if you check the electrical manual, there is a set of circuits for these sensors, and it involves fuses and relays. It is probably easy enough to check it all out with a meter before jumping on the sensor.

Best of luck, keep us posted.

 

Update

So, got the sensor delivered from SNG Barrett . Tried to do this myself but alas failed to get the existing failed one off. Just didn't have the right gizmos to get the engine fixing off . A step too far for me really. Booked in to local indie for next week now. Was told as it's the heater part of the sensor that's failed (downstream sensor 2 of bank 1) it's not going to hurt driving a little between now and then - will just take a bit longer for the engine to warm up.

Going to do another transmission drain and fill whilst the cats in.