center dash vent removal
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How do I remove the center dash vent? Some of the fins have detached themselves from the inside and I want to investigate whether the mounting brackets can be reattached or if it will need to be replaced. I have a 1997 BRG XK8 convertible.
hoosier, I remember reading recently around here, that you can reattach those vents again w/o removing them. If it is the same type of vent as the prior post (cant find it right now), you can make a little hook type tool, and pull the vertical bar back into the vent clips. Give that a try before dismantling your baby.
you can remove the center vent wood trim and the vent assembly comes out quite easily
good luck
i usually start by pulling the bottom of the wood with a small hook tool "carefully"
2 fasteners at the top and 2 at the bottom
good luck
i usually start by pulling the bottom of the wood with a small hook tool "carefully"
2 fasteners at the top and 2 at the bottom
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The plastic runners that hold the fins in place have become dislodged. ibjags mentioned that once the wood panel is removed that the center vent assembly is easily removed. How is the wood panel held in place and how do I remove it? Are they "push clips" similar to what holds the door panels on? Don't want to damage the wood panel. Thanks.
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I've been out of town on business and haven't had time to attempt removing the wood panel. Hopefully this weekend I should be able to. My Jag has a few items that need attention and hopefully this site might have a few suggestions on how to fix them.
Thanks again
Thanks again
You guys are right again!!!! I just gently pryed the wood panel up at the bottom and it popped right out. Then the vent pulled right out. Snapped the vents back in the clip and put it back in. 5 minutes. Thanks guys, that was bugging the s@#% out ou me.
The plastic connecting rod was missing on both my horizontal vents so I needed to find another fix.
I used high strength fishing line and cut quarter inch sections of thin tubing to connect the horizontal slats. Think it like threading a large 'bead' [the tubing] in between each of the slats where the OEM plastic piece would clip on .
The thread was looped around the bottom slat through a hole at the end of the slat. This is where the OEM plastic clip fastens. Then thread a quarter inch piece of tubing threaded into the fishing line and thread through the next slat, etc. The top slat was tied off very tightly [using a special surgical knot that only me and my heart surgeon know about].
The tube can be cut on the diagonal or straight across offering the option of having the slats angle up, down or neutral when open. They cannot be fully closed, but there is another vent flap for that.
This procedure could be performed with the vent unit in the car, but it is not that difficult to remove which makes the job much easier.
Considering they were just flopping around and closing off air flow, this fix was pretty good. Even better when I found out the replacement vent cost $170.
I used high strength fishing line and cut quarter inch sections of thin tubing to connect the horizontal slats. Think it like threading a large 'bead' [the tubing] in between each of the slats where the OEM plastic piece would clip on .
The thread was looped around the bottom slat through a hole at the end of the slat. This is where the OEM plastic clip fastens. Then thread a quarter inch piece of tubing threaded into the fishing line and thread through the next slat, etc. The top slat was tied off very tightly [using a special surgical knot that only me and my heart surgeon know about].
The tube can be cut on the diagonal or straight across offering the option of having the slats angle up, down or neutral when open. They cannot be fully closed, but there is another vent flap for that.
This procedure could be performed with the vent unit in the car, but it is not that difficult to remove which makes the job much easier.
Considering they were just flopping around and closing off air flow, this fix was pretty good. Even better when I found out the replacement vent cost $170.
Last edited by GordoCatCar; Jun 14, 2012 at 11:13 AM.
Thx Matt. If the tubing was thinner, say less than 1/8th inch OD, then the slats would actually be completely functional again on the up and down adjustment.
I used 1/4th inch tubing. As it is, they move up and down through a 30 degree arc; enough adjustment for my needs.
Somebody who like to string beads would have a field day with this fix!
I used 1/4th inch tubing. As it is, they move up and down through a 30 degree arc; enough adjustment for my needs.
Somebody who like to string beads would have a field day with this fix!
If you want smaller tubing, just cut apart the refill from the cheapest ball point pen you can find. An empty one is good if you don't want to deal with the ink 
Wonder how the bars go completely missing?

Wonder how the bars go completely missing?
The connecting rods are very thin. IMO the plastic degrades and they just disintegrate. I found pieces of one and it broke apart in my hand. It was very brittle.
Last edited by plums; Jun 20, 2012 at 04:36 AM.







