While my neighbor mechanics had the car (99 XK8) up on their rack fixing my destroyed drivers rear bearing, I was looking over and discussing my seeping differential with them. Is there any tricks to getting to and removing the plug in the differential, I want to top it off and hold off a while on the seal R&R, but it almost appears you need to remove swaybar and half way disasssemble the back end! The plug is the big internal Hex head up there hiding above everything else correct?

 

I took my '05 XKR to the tranny shop for a fluid change in the differential. We couldn't see any way to accomplish this short of unbolting suspension, or pulling the unit itself . I guess I will just have to hope the gear oil holds up . I can't even think of what you can do to top it off bro... You may be hosed.

 

Hmmmm...

I went ahead and bought my fluid in anticipation of an easy job like 100% of the other rear ends I have done over the years.

Are XKR's different than XK's in this area? I think R's have an LS diff and XK's are open - maybe the fill points are different?

 

I wish the XKR's had limited slip, but they don't. I have the 90' single black burn-out line in my driveway to prove it.
The factory says the diff fluid is "forever" , but then again they say that about the trans fluid too.

 

"Forever" must be an unspecified yet finite period of time in which in fact ends, when the total qty of lubricant in the case will eventually seep from the pinion seal in turn allowing the internal parts to detonate...webster's version is slightly different..........

 

Generally, if the seals are not leaking, just leave the diff fluid alone unless you want to jockey with getting to the plug and manuvering a hose into the hole to suck the oil out, where you will only get part of it. The other part is that in doing this, you will disturb the particels on the bottom and get them back into suspension, possibly damaging the seals in the process of having metal particles circulating. If you see a leak, pull the plug and top it off while saving up for the seal replacement. Otherwise leave well enough alone. Note here, if you see a seal leak, deal with it ASAP, the diff is expensive.

 

Sound advice I would say

 

Have to agree with Cheaperts on his analogy. Having things "sealed for life" really shouldn't apply to vehicles coming out of Europe, especially the UK. Awfully arrogant given their history. Funny, nothing on my wifes Lexus is sealed for life and it is showing 140K without a hitch. Same for my Jeep showing 245K. Pure British arrogance!

 

See how to top up here https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...iff-oil-71492/

 

My indie mechanic created and tapped new holes into my diffy for filling and draining. $150 well spent. I now have fresh fluid in the 2000 XKR's diffy.

I wasn't there when they did it, so no pics. They'll now drain and replace the fluid along with the others every 30,000 miles or so.

 

Now that eliminates a future pita situation.

 

Sorry, but there is a limited slip, maybe yours has gone... the oil must be a LS specification.

 

You and C/D are wrong, there never was an LSD in the X100 XK's or X308 XJ's.

 

The idea of drilling and tapping new ports seems the most basic and best idea yet. We should have all thought of it. Based on experience, what are the best locations?

 

subscribed, I like that drill-n-tap idea!

 

You are right! I thought there was one but... Sorry for that mistake.
We learn every day!

 

Jeff, any chance of getting a pic next time it is up on the lift?

How did they avoid the cuttings getting inside?

 

Here is what I did for a drain plug. As there is a seam along the middle of the access hole, it was necessary to enlarge the hole. 3/8" pipe is the thread and brass plugs are readily available. I used a square head plug and drilled it and used tie wire to secure it. As the bearings are regular Timken bearings, a quality diff fluid is all that is needed. Lifetime fluid not needed nor is the limited slip additive. If you drill the hole while the fluid is in it, the rush of fluid will guarantee any drilling chips will come back out.

 

my diff started to whine (very little) after changing oil... I first used FUCHS TITAN 80w90, the whine started after 130 miles, then at 180 miles I drained it and filled with the jaguar oil JLM 20255. The little noise is still present, especially on climbing hills (seems logical...)
Do you think it is a coincidence or an effect of flushing?
My car : 88000 miles.

thanks in advance.

 

I've been looking for that, many thanks, now closed to keep it tidy and added to the HOW-TOs.

BTW only the XKR-R came with an LS diff as standard.