Okay, I got my new/used ECU today. Plugged it in, OBD connected immediately only code was P1000 saying test not yet complete. however this new computer cleared the trans fault and I can now shift out of park, there is no more incorrect part fitted ect... the only dash code I'm getting is stability and traction fail. I have changed the fuel pump and have pressure, I have compression and I squirted a fuel oil mixture in the cylinders for good measure. I turn the key... and nothing... it turns but won't fire not even an attempt to start. The crazy part is this is the 4th computer I have tried in the car... the other 3 (came with the car) are known bad and only one of them will even connect to the cars network... that computer gives me all the faults on the dash won't let the trans come out of park incorrect part fitted, failsafe... BUT with it plugged in the car will fire and try to start... any ideas...

 

BTW new battery installed Sunday afternoon.

 

Glenn, does a shot of starting fluid do anything?

Wayne

 

No change... starting fluid or not...

 

Have you checked to see if the plugs actually have spark? It's hard to believe the ECU would not show a failure of the ignition modules or coils, but it is up to the ECU to provide the ground for the coils to fire.

 

I have not verified, the rain came in.. will have to work again tomorrow.

 

I'm no expert on this but do you not need to pair it with the car to get rid of the theftprotection? To me it sounds like there would be a missmatch betwen the key and the box. Or maby this is checked somewhere else in the system.

 

Could be anti-theft as that's what later cars do. (Shut off the injectors. Maybe spark, too.)

Also, does this car have a VCATS label (in the trunk in my experience) because if so I think you'll find you need to match module numbers.

 

I hope it helps...........

Good Luck

Thomas

 

Just a thought, you could try putting the new box into the car and put it into neutral, then fit your original one which lets the car attempt to start the car and see what happens, change the variables and see what the results are.
Hope this helps.
Arty

 

Whenever another ECU is placed in the car, it needs to be reprogrammed specifically for your car. Some call it being 'flashed'.

How do I know this? I just bought a used ECU on Ebay and discussed this with a locksmith who used to work for Jaguar, and he came out to program it just today.

It's a process that took about 30 minutes and cost me $195 US.

It's actually 1/2 of the theft protection that links the key with the ECU.

It's also necessary to have 2 keys in order for the programming to take place, and that cost me an additional $125, as only 1 key came with my car.

Do some checking around for quality automotive locksmiths, and you should find someone who can get the job done for you.

I live outside of Phoenix, and there were only two locksmiths that had the proper equipment to do the job (outside of the dealer).

 

I only have one key as well.

 

Did he definitely say you MUST have 2 keys or that all keys you have must be programmed to the vehicle at the same time?

If it is essential to have a 'vehicle set' of keys then I'd have thought this would be all 3 keys (2 x black headed Master + 1 x green headed Valet).

Graham

 

The Jag XK8 keys have a standard T5 chip in the black head of the key. These can be copied and programmed at most lock and key stores that specialise in car keys. You can even get a Tibbe key with no chip installed and drill a hole in the plastic head, and then insert a T5 chip and epoxy it in place.

Chip and chip less keys are even available on Ebay for reasonable prices. So if you only have one key, a second one is not hard to get copied. The hardest part is having the Tibbe key cut, the chip is the easy bit.

 

When you bought this ECU did you match the part number or the part number and the VCATS code on the sticker in the trunk? What year is your car?

 

No...I just matched up the part number on the label of the ECU exactly. No VCATS codes necessary.

It's a 1999.

Jaguar used the same ECU on several different models, but as long as the numbers match up exactly, you should have no problem.

As for the 'must-have' two key issue, I noticed as he was programming the ECU (his computer plugged into the OBDII connector), the program took him step-by-step, and one of the steps prompted him to remove the first key from the ignition and insert the second key, so my assumption is that he would not have been able to continue through the remaining programming steps without programming the second key.

He never asked me about a valet key (nor do I even have one), so I can't answer that question.

 

This locksmith was very articulate...he mentioned that he used to be a sales rep for the key-cutting equipment that cuts Tibbe keys...he even co-created the software for the key cutter, and it still took him two attempts before he got a key that worked properly.

That's why I'm a bit hesitant in buying a spare key online.