XK8 / XKR ( X100 ) 1996 - 2006

Clunk Through Steering Wheel

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Old Jun 21, 2024 | 12:42 PM
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Default Clunk Through Steering Wheel

Got my '00 XKR back on the road after doing some suspension work. When I got the car it had a nasty audible clunk up front and the strut mounts were all but collapsed. The clunk was clearly from a swaybar endlink as I could replicate when under the car and moving the bar by hand. I replaced the end links, upper strut mounts, and front/rear lower shock bushings. Car drives much better now and going over bumps is all but silent, however at lower speeds when turning there are clunks/thumps that I can feel through the steering wheel. You can't really hear them, just feel them. At anything over 20mph I don't notice it at all.

Searched through some older threads and looks like two possible causes:

1) Sway bar bushings. When I had the links off I moved the bar around and there was no noise or looseness so figured they were good enough to keep for now.

2) Lower steering column shaft.


I know there is a service bulletin that Bob has posted relating to the column shaft on the X100 platform. I have a feeling its the shaft as I've had that issue in multiple GM vehicles, but curious who's had this issue and what you guys think. The real issue is that the steering shaft seems to be no longer available and I feel like buying a used one would not guarantee a fix. I'm tempted to just swap the sway bar bushings and see if its still there after that, but if I end up needing a new shaft where would one go about finding a good one?
 
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Old Jun 23, 2024 | 06:15 PM
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Originally Posted by 87LC2
Got my '00 XKR back on the road after doing some suspension work. When I got the car it had a nasty audible clunk up front and the strut mounts were all but collapsed. The clunk was clearly from a swaybar endlink as I could replicate when under the car and moving the bar by hand. I replaced the end links, upper strut mounts, and front/rear lower shock bushings. Car drives much better now and going over bumps is all but silent, however at lower speeds when turning there are clunks/thumps that I can feel through the steering wheel. You can't really hear them, just feel them. At anything over 20mph I don't notice it at all.

Searched through some older threads and looks like two possible causes:

1) Sway bar bushings. When I had the links off I moved the bar around and there was no noise or looseness so figured they were good enough to keep for now.

2) Lower steering column shaft.


I know there is a service bulletin that Bob has posted relating to the column shaft on the X100 platform. I have a feeling its the shaft as I've had that issue in multiple GM vehicles, but curious who's had this issue and what you guys think. The real issue is that the steering shaft seems to be no longer available and I feel like buying a used one would not guarantee a fix. I'm tempted to just swap the sway bar bushings and see if its still there after that, but if I end up needing a new shaft where would one go about finding a good one?
l would lean toward the sway bar bushings. You moving it around while under the car does not equate to the work it will be doing. I also think they are a bit of a weak link and have looked flogged out when ever l have had them out.
Fiddly job but not difficult or expensive, certainly good place to start.
 
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Old Jun 23, 2024 | 07:49 PM
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Originally Posted by baxtor
l would lean toward the sway bar bushings. You moving it around while under the car does not equate to the work it will be doing. I also think they are a bit of a weak link and have looked flogged out when ever l have had them out.
Fiddly job but not difficult or expensive, certainly good place to start.
Agreed, and definitely worth a shot considering finding an intermediate steering shaft looks to be next to impossible...If the sway bar end links are any indication the bushings themselves are probably gone as well. Drove the car for about 40 miles yesterday and it really does drive fantastic, but that low speed knocking/clunking is awful. Already ordered a set of bushings and will do that before I go any further. Thanks for the input.
 
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Old Aug 21, 2024 | 10:51 AM
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I got around to changing the front sway bar bushings and no change, still get a minor clunk right through the steering wheel when turning at low speeds. Car drives great and no noises going over bumps in the road, its just a minor clunk/knock through the steering wheel at certain times (hard to replicate).

At this point I'm leaning towards the intermediate shaft being the issue. I got under the dash and felt the shaft while turning the wheel slightly and there is definitely something coming through the shaft. I confirmed it is the early shaft without the rubber coupler according to the TSB. Is it worth tracking down the newer version of the shaft and giving that a try? It's driving me a bit crazy and the car drive excellent otherwise.
 
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Old Aug 21, 2024 | 03:10 PM
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Salvage yards are probably full of them before they scrap things that nobody buys.
CarPart - Replacement Auto Parts

I would look for a salvage yard steering rack listing and ask if they have the coupling shaft.
 
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Old Aug 21, 2024 | 03:23 PM
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Originally Posted by motorcarman
Salvage yards are probably full of them before they scrap things that nobody buys.
CarPart - Replacement Auto Parts

I would look for a salvage yard steering rack listing and ask if they have the coupling shaft.
I'm glad you replied motorcarman - I found the TSB from one of your posts years ago. In your opinion do you think that could be my issue? Car drive great and no noise/clunks over bumps, new sway bar links/bushings & upper/lower shock mounts. Not sure what else it can be and I definitely feel it right in the wheel.

I found this one on Ebay, looks to be the exact part number mentioned in the TSB:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/23565377381...3ABFBMgO_a6a5k





 
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Old Aug 21, 2024 | 07:33 PM
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I have NO IDEA about your problem without driving the car.
We replaced dozens of lower steering columns when the TSB was issued.
I know what it feels like when I drive the car but cannot convey that through electronic medium.(over the internet)

The used parts are a cost effective way to remedy a problem and the part you referenced seems like a good replacement part.

Good Luck.
 
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Old Aug 22, 2024 | 10:29 AM
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Originally Posted by motorcarman
I have NO IDEA about your problem without driving the car.
We replaced dozens of lower steering columns when the TSB was issued.
I know what it feels like when I drive the car but cannot convey that through electronic medium.(over the internet)

The used parts are a cost effective way to remedy a problem and the part you referenced seems like a good replacement part.

Good Luck.
Thank you. And yes, of course you can't tell if that's my issue from where you're sitting I have had bad intermediate shafts in GM vehicles before and it feels very similar, I would be surprised if that's not the problem to be honest. For the $60 I'll go ahead and replace it and go from there. Thanks again.
 
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Old Aug 28, 2024 | 10:50 AM
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@motorcarman Just a couple simple questions in installing the shaft - Received it yesterday and it looks to be in good shape, no play and u joints/rubber coupler look good.

1) I notice that the shaft does not collapse at all. I've only done shafts on GM vehicles in the past and they all collapsed. Is the Jag shaft supposed to or no? Is there enough play in the joints to remove/install without the shaft collapsing? Workshop manual install looks very simple so I guess there has to be enough play to get it out. Unless its supposed to collapse and the new (used) one is frozen.

2) The rubber boot seems to have been pushed way up on the replacement and there are metal collars with tangs on each end preventing it from moving. Any idea what's the best way to slide the boot assembly down the shaft without damaging these rings? Guess I could prey each tab up slightly on the bottom side if I have to.

3) It looks like there is no "flat" on the splined ends to locate the shaft. Not a big deal but I guess I'll have to get it dead on the right splines so as to keep my steering wheel alignment intact, correct?
 

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Old Aug 28, 2024 | 01:41 PM
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I cannot remember details about the replacement parts because it was a few decades ago.
I don't remember having difficulty replacing the newer shaft so it must have enough room to remove/replace?
 
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Old Aug 28, 2024 | 01:57 PM
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Originally Posted by motorcarman
I cannot remember details about the replacement parts because it was a few decades ago.
I don't remember having difficulty replacing the newer shaft so it must have enough room to remove/replace?
Understood, thank you for the reply. I'm sure its very straightforward but figured I'd ask in case you remembered. Hopefully I can get to it this weekend and fingers crossed it fixes my issue. Thanks again!
 
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Old Sep 17, 2024 | 12:42 PM
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Finally got around to replacing this shaft and didn't get too far unfortunately. Lower pinch bolt at the rack came out easily, but could not get the shaft removed from the rack. Doing these in the past on other vehicles you could just pry them slightly and they'd come off, but there is some sort of cover for the pinion shaft on the Jaguar rack and I do not want to pry against it. Also tried prying the opening in the shaft itself but didn't get anywhere with that either. It's not rusty or corroded at all, just won't slide off.

Any tips for removing the lower shaft from the rack?
 
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Old Sep 17, 2024 | 04:12 PM
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I drive a wedge or chisel in the slot to open the clamp area and then tap the area above the flex joint upward and off the pinion shaft.
 
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Old Sep 17, 2024 | 04:16 PM
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Originally Posted by motorcarman
I drive a wedge or chisel in the slot to open the clamp area and then tap the area above the flex joint upward and off the pinion shaft.
Sounds good, thank you. Didn't want to get too rough with it before I checked on here but I'll give that a shot. Moving the joint around by hand I can feel a bit of a clunk, so really hoping it solves my issue. I did notice the tilt in the column was a bit loose and tightened that up the other day but did not fix this issue, hoping the shaft cures it once and for all.
 
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Old Sep 17, 2024 | 07:30 PM
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I did this a few weeks ago when I dropped the front cross member with engine/trans assy complete on my 1998 XK8.
The wedge was driven into the slot and long drift rod was used to dislodge the shaft from the rack.

Upon re-installation, I had to PULL the column shaft ONTO the pinion shaft so I used a slide hammer and 'hook-tool' with a wedge in the slot to enlarge the splined coupler.

The aluminum coupler looks a little scarred up but I stayed away from actual moving parts.

Anti-seize compound might help lube things into place?
 
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Old Sep 18, 2024 | 02:36 AM
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I've not done this job on an XK but my usual technique with split clamps if the bolt is removable is to put an old knife blade, or similar, as an obstruction in the slot and then screw in the bolt from the wrong side. It will contact the obstruction and then open up the slot allowing easy removal.

Richard
 
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Old Sep 18, 2024 | 09:37 AM
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I was thinking if using some anti-seize upon re-assembly, good idea. I'll give it another shot when I get some time, thanks for the tips. Funny, I've replaced these shafts in GMs numerous times in the past and once the bolt it out the shaft basically just falls off. Never expected it to be on there so tight.

Also - Are these shafts collapsible? The replacement I received is in good shape, but does not collapse and I don't even see where it would collapse. I was under the impression that all intermediate shafts were collapsible? Wonder if its stuck/seized.
 
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