For the last month and a half I’m been trying to get my Continuous Component Monitor to reset. I’ve followed recommended drive routines (apparently there are several) I’ve even considered sacrificing a chicken (or a bottle of vodka). Now in theory in CA you can pass smog with one monitor not reset but if it is a Star station they get dinged so they won’t do it. I even contacted several Jaguar Mechanics and they basically commiserated with me. Last night I got it to reset and got through the Smog test this morning. This was the result of running down an obscure bulletin with really crappy instructions that implied this monitor needed the car cold, to be driven flat for around 13 minutes and then sit for a minute (I live on a very steep hill).
So three days ago I did a hard ECU reset (negative battery terminal to positive), an OBDII code clear, and then drove around for two days until all the monitors but the Continuous Component Monitor reset and the gas tank was below 50% (gas sloshing is why the car needs to be flat). I left my garage and drove to a meeting where it sat flat for an entire day, then drove a few blocks and let it sit again for a couple hours. When I started the car up and started driving the monitor reset.
Two other notes, I’d also read that Sport mode must be off and your transmission light can’t be flashing. I always drive with Sport mode on which may have been part of the problem.
The bulletin in PDF can be found here: www.obdclearinghouse.com/index.php?body=get_file&id=1418
By the way, here in lovely **** smog free California the rules changed this year. By mid-year they will no longer actually check how much crap your car is putting out, they’ll just make sure everything is there and that the monitors ALL work. I just bought a house in Bend Oregon, no sales tax and less car craziness. Will move in a few years.
As a side note for some time I’d been throwing too lean codes (P0171-P0174). For some reason during this process I threw a purge control valve code (P0443) and it appears that it had been sticking intermittently open causing the lean problem. Once replaced that problem went away. In my car the valve is between the left front door and the front wheel well behind the wheel well liner. The valve was under $70 from Gaudin something to check if you’re throwing lean codes and you can’t find a leak.
Here is the drive cycle I was using: http://www.justanswer.com/jaguar/5ft...bd-jaguar.html

 

I was intrigued by your noting that the smog procedures are due to change here in Kalifornia--I was not aware.

I have always thought this smog crappola was a giant boondoggle just like the numerous other boondoggles here. I could understand it in the "old" days before all of the electronic engine management stuff was added but these days it is clearly just a waste of time meant to fatten someone's pockets. I have always contended that if you have a relatively modern vehicle you should just be able to show the DMV that you have brought it in regularly for maintenance and that should be able to waive any smog check BS. But once some government program is instituted try getting it removed--even if it is antiquated.

Doug

 

Apparently they are trying to use the smog program to eliminate street racing. But the change is supposed to make the check more painless because just doing the visual check and then running the OBDII monitor check doesn't require a dyno and should take no more than 10 minutes. The problem will be that some of the monitors on some of the early OBDII cars are a bitch to reset as I learned.


And modified cars will be a bitch to get passed. Oregon here I come...


Program is being phased in this year.

 

Thanks for that Rob, I've attached the bulletin so that it doesn't disappear, there was someone with a similar problem in the S section recently.
AZ smog test is through the OBD reading only, older cars still need to go on the dyno.